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#121 neddles

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 09:36 PM

I have a burner very similar to that made by Avantco that is 3500w. I got it from Webstaurant and it was well under $200 I believe.


Do you use it or brewing or sauce? Works well? Reliable?

#122 3rd party JKor

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 02:43 AM

I bought a PWM kit to feed the SSR on my rig as well.  Being as this was 10 years ago, i assume you can find more options out there now but when I did it I was having trouble finding a decent, simple PWM unit.

 

I'm pretty sure this is the kit I used:  https://www.velleman...h-modulator-kit

 

On my 15g kettle with 5500W element, I found that ~70% would give me a nice stable boil.  100% was a certain boilover.



#123 positiveContact

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 03:55 AM

I have a burner very similar to that made by Avantco that is 3500w. I got it from Webstaurant and it was well under $200 I believe.

 

do you use it for beer?  that was one that mentions a max load of 65lbs.  maybe they are just trying to cover their butts.



#124 positiveContact

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 04:31 AM

would an element like this be good?  seems like a pretty good deal: https://www.brewhard...it_tcrip_wl.htm

 

I'd just need to get over worrying about resting my IC on the element while it's on.  what about my big hop screen?  if that sits on the element is it going to somehow cause scorching or anything?

 

here is a pic of the hop screen in action.  It's just a giant SS mesh cylinder that is open on the top.  normally it just sits on the bottom of the kettle and the IC is a slightly larger diameter and can fit around it.

 

jaVy4YF.jpg



#125 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 04:54 AM

I have used both a hop screen and IM in mine.  I was able to set the element up so I could sneak the hop screen in the "ripple" of the element so it was not on it.  I no longer use that thing though.  What you link is fine but you could piece meal that from other places for cheaper IMO.


I bought a PWM kit to feed the SSR on my rig as well.  Being as this was 10 years ago, i assume you can find more options out there now but when I did it I was having trouble finding a decent, simple PWM unit.

 

I'm pretty sure this is the kit I used:  https://www.velleman...h-modulator-kit

 

On my 15g kettle with 5500W element, I found that ~70% would give me a nice stable boil.  100% was a certain boilover.

I used something similar but I built it from scratch.  I am not down to 50% or less on a 5500 watt for my 7.5g pre-boil.  I shoot for a low boil tho.



#126 positiveContact

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 05:38 AM

Is the hardware in that kit representative of what I should be looking for? Good to have a guide.

#127 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 05:54 AM

Is the hardware in that kit representative of what I should be looking for? Good to have a guide.

After pricing it out the costs for what I would wand are about the same but I would go with a 2" triclamp over the 1.5".  That also does not look like it comes with anything to cover the end of the element.  The one I got on Amazon has a nice screw on cover.

 

92018369_10159889053579657_1315339949217



#128 matt6150

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:17 AM

Do you use it or brewing or sauce? Works well? Reliable?

 

Sauce, works awesome and has been reliable so far.

do you use it for beer?  that was one that mentions a max load of 65lbs.  maybe they are just trying to cover their butts.

 

I'm guessing they are just covering their butts. If the one you linked to can hold more I don't see why the Avantco one couldn't. You going to be doing primarily 10g batches?

After pricing it out the costs for what I would wand are about the same but I would go with a 2" triclamp over the 1.5".  That also does not look like it comes with anything to cover the end of the element.  The one I got on Amazon has a nice screw on cover.

 

92018369_10159889053579657_1315339949217

The one he linked doesn't have anything covering the end but it has the male receptacle sticking out the end. So after you put the connector on it would essentially be covered.



#129 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:22 AM

 

The one he linked doesn't have anything covering the end but it has the male receptacle sticking out the end. So after you put the connector on it would essentially be covered.

 

Good point.  But he would need to get that.  I assume it is a twist lock?



#130 matt6150

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:37 AM

Good point.  But he would need to get that.  I assume it is a twist lock?

Yeah they are twist lock, Hubbell would be the most common brand.



#131 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:39 AM

Yeah they are twist lock, Hubbell would be the most common brand.

 

Just want to make sure Mando is aware so he can plan accordingly.  I would find that annoying, the twist lock, but that is just because of how my set up is.  I can see the benefit if starting from scratch.



#132 matt6150

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:42 AM

I don't mind the twist lock, I have them on mine just not that style. The twist lock is for safety so they don't pull out. They have them on the Brew Hardware site as well. Link



#133 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 07:48 AM

I don't mind the twist lock, I have them on mine just not that style. The twist lock is for safety so they don't pull out. They have them on the Brew Hardware site as well. Link

I had twist locks on before and they worked good.  I just like a cord on the kettle and plug it into the wall.  I do not have "leads" coming from my control panel.  If I was to use that I would have short 2 foot cords to my kettles and RIMS.



#134 matt6150

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 08:23 AM

I had twist locks on before and they worked good.  I just like a cord on the kettle and plug it into the wall.  I do not have "leads" coming from my control panel.  If I was to use that I would have short 2 foot cords to my kettles and RIMS.

I went back and forth about having the leads on my panel or on the pots. I went with on the panel so I could unplug the pots and bring them outside to clean with a hose and not have the cord hanging on. But the panel(s) I built for sale had no leads. https://brews-bros.c...-control-panel/



#135 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 08:30 AM

I went back and forth about having the leads on my panel or on the pots. I went with on the panel so I could unplug the pots and bring them outside to clean with a hose and not have the cord hanging on. But the panel(s) I built for sale had no leads. https://brews-bros.c...-control-panel/

I ran conduit so I could have an outlet behind each device.  Digging back through pictures it is hard to believe I started my basement brewery in early 2012.  Does not seem like it was 8 years ago.  WOW.

 

87053963_10159695058594657_3108480394341



#136 positiveContact

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 11:48 AM

After pricing it out the costs for what I would wand are about the same but I would go with a 2" triclamp over the 1.5".  That also does not look like it comes with anything to cover the end of the element.  The one I got on Amazon has a nice screw on cover.

 

is the 2" the diameter of the hole?  why 2" over 1.5" for an element?  I understand going bigger when dealing with something like a drain.

 

this whole thing has me considering BIAB a little bit but I'd have to plug up a 1/2" port in the side of my mash tun that currently has a thermo with a long probe sticking into the middle of the kettle.  that's one issue.  the other is that I don't think I could do a full on mash on some higher gravity stuff in my 20 gallon mash tun.  Not sure how the BIAB guys deal with that.  the last thing is I'd need to rig something up to hold the bag after the mash.  none of these are show stoppers.  not sure what I'd do with my 15 gal kettle after that :P


interesting question though, drez - why do you have more than one kettle if you do BIAB??



#137 HVB

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 11:52 AM

is the 2" the diameter of the hole?  why 2" over 1.5" for an element?  I understand going bigger when dealing with something like a drain.

 

this whole thing has me considering BIAB a little bit but I'd have to plug up a 1/2" port in the side of my mash tun that currently has a thermo with a long probe sticking into the middle of the kettle.  that's one issue.  the other is that I don't think I could do a full on mash on some higher gravity stuff in my 20 gallon mash tun.  Not sure how the BIAB guys deal with that.  the last thing is I'd need to rig something up to hold the bag after the mash.  none of these are show stoppers.  not sure what I'd do with my 15 gal kettle after that :P


interesting question though, drez - why do you have more than one kettle if you do BIAB??

The element will fit in a 1.5" Triclamp but I feel it is easier in a 2".

 

I will sometimes BIAB and I will sometimes mash full volume in the MLT and then pump the the kettle.  Depends on my mood.  Right now, I am BIAB a So Cal Pilsner... shh .. don't tell.



#138 neddles

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 11:56 AM

Tell me more about So. Cal. Pilsner.


Edited by neddles, 03 April 2020 - 12:05 PM.


#139 positiveContact

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 12:00 PM

hey keep it down?  did you you hear him say "ssshhhhhh!"



#140 neddles

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Posted 03 April 2020 - 12:05 PM

hey keep it down?  did you you hear him say "ssshhhhhh!"

 

edited, thx.




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