I paid that price for the end and the element.

NG or Electric?
#201
Posted 07 April 2020 - 09:05 AM
#202
Posted 07 April 2020 - 12:56 PM
I have an option for you that would save you some free time, but at a cost. If you would like a turn key panel check this one out. I have another half way through the build. https://brews-bros.c...-control-panel/
Appreciate the offer Matt! That's a pretty sweet panel setup but more than I want to do for my build. I'm really driving to keep it as simple as possible. Personally much like brewing in the 1st place I enjoy the build as much as the final product!
I do prefer that design but not sure at that higher price point. Did a little more digging on the brew hardware site and while the individual pieces to build what I wanted aren't available they have kits with all the pieces in them. Now I need to find a 5500W element that fits this because those are out of stock but hopefully those are easier to come by elsewhere.
#203
Posted 08 April 2020 - 05:17 AM
Here's an example of the type of Proportional Controller I was talking about. (This is a really good buy, too! They're usually $100 or more!)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/130761827918
Unlike a standard SSR (apply voltage, it's on... remove voltage, it's off) this one controls the output based on a potentiometer connected to the control terminals.
So what is the difference between the one you linked and an SSVR like this one? I understand SSR's but once you get into SSVR's and proportional control SSR's,... that's when the electrical voodoo witches come back into play. As much as I do love blinky lights I also like the simplicity of the potentiometer driven design.
#204
Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:02 AM
I am sure you seen this one, 4500W instead of 5500W https://www.amazon.c...B078MFYTVX?th=1
Here is an interesting one https://milehidistil...240v-5500-watt/
Another option https://www.ebay.com...44AAOxy14VRQWJq
#205
Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:42 AM
So what is the difference between the one you linked and an SSVR like this one? I understand SSR's but once you get into SSVR's and proportional control SSR's,... that's when the electrical voodoo witches come back into play. As much as I do love blinky lights I also like the simplicity of the potentiometer driven design.
That one specifies that it uses Phase Angle Control. This is like the old light dimmers that worked by allowing a certain portion of each cycle to pass through. Like this:
Phase angle control is very efficient, but results in a noisy, spiky signal that many types of loads (motors particularly) don't react well to.
Another type of controller might use a Zero-Crossing control where a certain number of full cycles are allowed to pass or are blocked to control the percentage of power. Like this:
A relatively low frequency Pulse Width Modulation circuit controlling a Zero-Crossing Solid State Relay works like this.
Another way of controlling power would be using a variac (a type of variable transformer) to control the amplitude of the voltage. A variac for this type of control is a very large, very heavy, very expensive variable transformer.
Here's an example of a Variac you could use to control a 1200 Watt load:
It weighs 11 pounds and costs nearly $500.
Edited by jimdkc, 08 April 2020 - 06:54 AM.
#206
Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:44 AM
Appreciate the offer Matt! That's a pretty sweet panel setup but more than I want to do for my build. I'm really driving to keep it as simple as possible. Personally much like brewing in the 1st place I enjoy the build as much as the final product!
I do prefer that design but not sure at that higher price point. Did a little more digging on the brew hardware site and while the individual pieces to build what I wanted aren't available they have kits with all the pieces in them. Now I need to find a 5500W element that fits this because those are out of stock but hopefully those are easier to come by elsewhere.
No problem. I know buying a panel of that complexity is not for everyone. I enjoy building things as well, I guess that's why I keep building those panels. But this is my last one because they are just not as popular as they once were.
I have that same element enclosure you linked to on my system. I modified it a bit with a receptacle on the end but they work for me. I use this element. It's not stainless, I will probably upgrade at some point.
#207
Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:46 AM
No problem. I know buying a panel of that complexity is not for everyone. I enjoy building things as well, I guess that's why I keep building those panels. But this is my last one because they are just not as popular as they once were.
I have that same element enclosure you linked to on my system. I modified it a bit with a receptacle on the end but they work for me. I use this element. It's not stainless, I will probably upgrade at some point.
I clicked on that link and it says I purchased that in 2013. I am pretty sure I used that for 5 years before I went SS and still have it. Those work just fine.
#208
Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:54 AM
I clicked on that link and it says I purchased that in 2013. I am pretty sure I used that for 5 years before I went SS and still have it. Those work just fine.
What stainless one do you have? I had gotten a Dernord(sp?) one but it wouldn't fit into my housing, threads seemed different.
#209
Posted 08 April 2020 - 07:08 AM
What stainless one do you have? I had gotten a Dernord(sp?) one but it wouldn't fit into my housing, threads seemed different.
I think I have one from Brewhardware that I no longer use and then 2 Dernord. One that has a tri-clamp for my kettle and one that is a screw in for my RIMS. No leaks on my screw in but I did use a lot of silicone on it to make sure it would not.
#210
Posted 08 April 2020 - 07:56 AM
I think I have one from Brewhardware that I no longer use and then 2 Dernord. One that has a tri-clamp for my kettle and one that is a screw in for my RIMS. No leaks on my screw in but I did use a lot of silicone on it to make sure it would not.
It's weird, when I screw it in the threads seem very sloppy. It will start to snug down and when you keep going it all of a sudden becomes loose again. I just couldn't trust it.
#211
Posted 08 April 2020 - 08:42 AM
for some reason I keep thinking about going BIAB and just using my 20 gallon kettle. never having to move the kettle would be nice. but then again that adds a whole bunch of things I'd need to change. as it is I could just put the kettle on the propane burner but not use propane.
ugh!
I should probably just stick with something similar to what I do now.
My last greatest plan was to have a complete one kettle system from mash to keg. I built a frame to mount an electric hoist above the kettle to remove the sack of grains. I was planning to boil, chill and ferment in the kettle then use the hoist to lift the kettle and gravity transfer to the kegs. Maybe someday I'll do it...
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