210 replies to this topic

[HVB]

A PID would involve a temp probe though, right?  I'm not sure I need that since I don't directly heat my mash tun or even have a way to circulate in it.  Is there a cheap option that just allows me to set the element through a range from off to on like donkey kong (safely of course)?

https://stilldragon....roller-kit.html

[BrewerGeorge]

https://stilldragon....roller-kit.html

Where's the PWM in that kit?

[HVB]

Where's the PWM in that kit?

 There is not one.  There is a potentiometer there.  

ETA:  Is it the best solution .. no.  Is it cheap.  Yes. I would still go with a PID/SSR and run it in manual mode.

Edited by HVB, 01 April 2020 - 09:36 AM.

[BrewerGeorge]

I don't get it then, it's a 220V potentiometer?  Then why is the SSR necessary at all?

[positiveContact]

 There is not one.  There is a potentiometer there.  

ETA:  Is it the best solution .. no.  Is it cheap.  Yes. I would still go with a PID/SSR and run it in manual mode.

 

I didn't know that was possible.  Is this the kind of thing I would need?  $42 isn't too bad.  https://ebrewsupply....unit-ssr-output

[HVB]

I don't get it then, it's a 220V potentiometer?  Then why is the SSR necessary at all?

Not my kit but I am guessing it is only a 120V pot and you are only switching one leg with the SSR and the other is on the element hot all the time.

I didn't know that was possible.  Is this the kind of thing I would need?  $42 isn't too bad.  https://ebrewsupply....unit-ssr-output

Yes, that has manual so it would work.

[jimdkc]

They're not using a standard Solid State Relay in that kit. 

 

They're using a special Solid State Proportional Controller that uses a variable resistance input to control the power output.

 

The control circuitry is inside the "SSR". Those controllers are usually hard to find and much more expensive than that kit.

[HVB]

They're not using a standard Solid State Relay in that kit. 

 

They're using a special Solid State Proportional Controller that uses a variable resistance input to control the power output.

 

The control circuitry is inside the "SSR". Those controllers are usually hard to find and much more expensive than that kit.

 

That makes a lot more sense than where I was going.  Thinking now I was describing it as a PWM.  This is what I get for trying to be on a conference call and respond at the same time!

[jimdkc]

Here's an example of the type of Proportional Controller I was talking about. (This is a really good buy, too! They're usually $100 or more!)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130761827918

 

Unlike a standard SSR (apply voltage, it's on... remove voltage, it's off) this one controls the output based on a potentiometer connected to the control terminals.

[HVB]

Here's an example of the type of Proportional Controller I was talking about. (This is a really good buy, too! They're usually $100 or more!)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130761827918

 

Unlike a standard SSR (apply voltage, it's on... remove voltage, it's off) this one controls the output based on a potentiometer connected to the control terminals.

That makes for a nice simple control.

[positiveContact]

Here's an example of the type of Proportional Controller I was talking about. (This is a really good buy, too! They're usually $100 or more!)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130761827918

 

Unlike a standard SSR (apply voltage, it's on... remove voltage, it's off) this one controls the output based on a potentiometer connected to the control terminals.

 

so how does this work?  I wire up a plug from this thing that plugs into a 240V outlet and the other side gets wired up to my heating element.  where is the control aspect?

Edited by Mando, 01 April 2020 - 12:30 PM.

[jimdkc]

It works like this:

 

 

You dial the pot to 25%, the controller allows 25% of the cycles to get through to the heating element. You dial the pot to 75%, the controller allows 75% of the cycles to get through to the heating element. Etc...

[positiveContact]

if I were to dial it back to 25% how does that part not get really hot?  I'm an electronics dumb dumb.

[HVB]

if I were to dial it back to 25% how does that part not get really hot? I'm an electronics dumb dumb.

It does, install a heatsink on it.

[jimdkc]

if I were to dial it back to 25% how does that part not get really hot?  I'm an electronics dumb dumb.

 

1. When it's passing significant current, the voltage across it is nearly zero. Significant Current X Nearly Zero Voltage = Nearly Zero Power

 

2. When it's blocking current, the the voltage across it is high. Nearly Zero Current X Significant Voltage = Nearly Zero Power

 

3. Because it's not a perfect device, it will get quite warm. That's why you bolt it to a big ass heatsink!

 

Original kit (note big ass heatsink!):

 

Edited by jimdkc, 01 April 2020 - 01:37 PM.

[positiveContact]

look at the heatsink on that one!

[positiveContact]

so what do most of you guys put your kettle on?

 

right now my setup is pretty low tech.  I'm going to take a pic now and share so you can see what I'm starting out with...

[positiveContact]

This is how I do things now.  I heat the strike water in my BK (left in this picture).  I then drain into my mash tun on the counter and mix in the grain.

 

 

After I'm done mashing I move the BK and SQ-14 burner down to the garage floor and drain into that, boil, chill and drain through a long piece of tubing into the basement right into the fermentor (currently on the counter here).

 

[positiveContact]

FYI - I included the second pic to show my general brew space.  there are currently no outlets in this corner of the garage.  This wall with the sink on it is shared with my house.  The steps to the right of the counter go into my house.  The panel for my house is located in the basement about 5-6' down and to the right of those stairs.  I have the space on the panel to support a 240V outlet in the garage.

[HVB]

I have mine on a low bench with ceramic tile on the top.