210 replies to this topic

[3rd party JKor]

I don't remember what was discussed in this thread but where I came out on this was I wanted to keep the element out of the brew kettle so i could do BIAB without burning the bag (and avoid interrupting the whirlpool).  The plan was to use 4 1500W electric range coils (just like the ones on the old electric ranges, they're super cheap at any hardware store) wired together and bunched up so they all fit under the kettle.  I got some refractory insulation to put underneath the burners so heat wouldn't be lost from the underside of the burners.  I also made an insulation jacket for the kettle to improve heating efficiency.

 

I guess this is still my plan if I pick up brewing again.  I have everything ready for a 15 gallon batch size.  

[HVB]

The element really has no impact on whirlpooling in my experience.  This has been in a cheap Bayou Classic and a newer Spike.  I use a RIMS so the element in the kettle is not on so no comment on that.

[djinkc]

The element in the kettle is the best thing I ever did.  Waiting for a boil may add a little time but I'm usually kegging, prepping the fermenter and clean as I go anyway

[3rd party JKor]

The element really has no impact on whirlpooling in my experience.  This has been in a cheap Bayou Classic and a newer Spike.  I use a RIMS so the element in the kettle is not on so no comment on that.

 

 

I never have been able to get as good of a trub cone as without the element.  It's not that it doesn't work it's just less effective.

[positiveContact]

I'm still investigating this.  It would be awesome if there was an electric burner with a control on it that could handle a 10 gal batch.  I know I could buy an induction burner but it appears my BK isn't magnetic despite being SS.  the 5000+W induction burners are all really expensive as well.

 

an element in the kettle might be okay as long as it doesn't interfere with my IC and the giant hop screen tube I put inside it during the boil.  I do hate having to add more holes to the kettle though.  I worry a little bit that it will leak or fail.

[HVB]

I never have been able to get as good of a trub cone as without the element.  It's not that it doesn't work it's just less effective.

get a bigger pump

[HVB]

I'm still investigating this.  It would be awesome if there was an electric burner with a control on it that could handle a 10 gal batch.  I know I could buy an induction burner but it appears my BK isn't magnetic despite being SS.  the 5000+W induction burners are all really expensive as well.

 

an element in the kettle might be okay as long as it doesn't interfere with my IC and the giant hop screen tube I put inside it during the boil.  I do hate having to add more holes to the kettle though.  I worry a little bit that it will leak or fail.

 

Between silver solder and weldless tri-clamp stuff I would not be worried at all.  A leak can happen but it can also be fixed pretty easy.

[positiveContact]

Between silver solder and weldless tri-clamp stuff I would not be worried at all.  A leak can happen but it can also be fixed pretty easy.

 

you know anything about these?  https://www.brewhard...-10gal-240v.htm

 

I haven't taken any measurements but I wonder if it would not hit my IC.

 

eta: no dimensions listed??

Edited by Mando, 31 March 2020 - 12:46 PM.

[HVB]

you know anything about these?  https://www.brewhard...-10gal-240v.htm

 

I haven't taken any measurements but I wonder if it would not hit my IC.

 

eta: no dimensions listed??

That is only 3750W adn 11.4 inches across https://www.morebeer...hp?file_id=2902 .   Lot of money for not a lot of feature IMO.  There are these too  https://www.morebeer...ement-240v.html

[positiveContact]

those morebeer ones look nice!

 

I'm a little afraid to ask but what am I looking at for accessories to control this thing?  I wouldn't need it to be automated per say.  I'd just want to at least be able to manually adjust it using visual feedback.

[HVB]

PID with a SSR and some switches and stuff on the simple end.  You could build a PWM circuit and have that feed the SSR and have that control the element.  I am sure there are also some pre-made solutions.  I will look later once I am off this call.

[djinkc]

you know anything about these?  https://www.brewhard...-10gal-240v.htm

 

I haven't taken any measurements but I wonder if it would not hit my IC.

 

eta: no dimensions listed??

You're worrying too much about the IC hitting the element.  It's simply not an issue

[HVB]

You're worrying too much about the IC hitting the element.  It's simply not an issue

agree.  Mine sat on the element for years.

[positiveContact]

just another question - sometimes I get scorching on the bottom of my kettle.  does this not happen on the element?

[BrewerGeorge]

You guys told him about the Christmas Light controller yet?

 

https://web.archive....tle Control.htm

[HVB]

You guys told him about the Christmas Light controller yet?

Revolutionary at the time. Lots of new alternatives though. Although, the PMW I mentioned is basically the light controller.

just another question - sometimes I get scorching on the bottom of my kettle. does this not happen on the element?

No scorching on the bottom.

[positiveContact]

Revolutionary at the time. Lots of new alternatives though. Although, the PMW I mentioned is basically the light controller.

No scorching on the bottom.

 

sorry I meant ON the element itself.  with it getting really hot why doesn't stuff burn on to it?

[djinkc]

sorry I meant ON the element itself.  with it getting really hot why doesn't stuff burn on to it?

Watts per square inch.  Get a low density or ultra low density element.

[djinkc]

You guys told him about the Christmas Light controller yet?

 

https://web.archive....tle Control.htm

The day mine burnt up I found out that 4500 watts at full bore was perfect for the configuration of my 20 gallon kettle and I really didn't need any control.  Still, it was a fun project with all the blinking leds and switches I added.

[positiveContact]

PID with a SSR and some switches and stuff on the simple end.  You could build a PWM circuit and have that feed the SSR and have that control the element.  I am sure there are also some pre-made solutions.  I will look later once I am off this call.

 

A PID would involve a temp probe though, right?  I'm not sure I need that since I don't directly heat my mash tun or even have a way to circulate in it.  Is there a cheap option that just allows me to set the element through a range from off to on like donkey kong (safely of course)?

Edited by Mando, 01 April 2020 - 09:16 AM.