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#101 positiveContact

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 02:43 PM

is it okay to have a decent amount of cord length from the control to the element?  as of now if I put this element in my BK I'd have to use gravity which means moving the BK from some high location (to drain into my MT) to a lower location (to allow for draining from the MT back to the BK).


Edited by Mando, 01 April 2020 - 02:43 PM.


#102 djinkc

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 04:37 PM

Didn't we have a thread covering a lot of this stuff on the greenboard?  Also that spreadsheet HVB had is invaluable for this stuff.  I don't have it on this laptop



#103 HVB

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 05:29 PM

Didn't we have a thread covering a lot of this stuff on the greenboard? Also that spreadsheet HVB had is invaluable for this stuff. I don't have it on this laptop


I still have it and if anyone wants it PM me an email address. I calculates time to boil from a set temp and how long it takes to get from one temp to another for different wattages.

#104 jimdkc

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Posted 01 April 2020 - 07:12 PM

is it okay to have a decent amount of cord length from the control to the element?  as of now if I put this element in my BK I'd have to use gravity which means moving the BK from some high location (to drain into my MT) to a lower location (to allow for draining from the MT back to the BK).

 

Just make sure the wire gauge of the cord is heavy enough. Depends on how much length and how much power.



#105 HVB

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 04:25 AM

My second setup that was in the garage had about a 20 foot cord on it.  Like was stated above, just size it right.



#106 positiveContact

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 06:31 AM

Good to know. That leaves more flexibility on placement of the outlet.

#107 positiveContact

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 06:42 AM

Just like to thank you guys for answering all of my questions. Now that I'm stuck at home all the time brewing is one of the few things I've still got going on.

#108 neddles

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 11:13 AM

Without digging through the thread, have you exhausted your 220v induction options?



#109 positiveContact

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 11:38 AM

Without digging through the thread, have you exhausted your 220v induction options?

 

I mean - I looked around but they are pretty pricey and I'm not sure that my kettle is induction ready since a magnet won't stick to the bottom.  My mash tun appears like it would work but then I'd have to go to BIAB which would add another layer of complexity for me (mostly the lifting of the bag from the kettle).

 

the other aspect is that the surface on a lot of these things is pretty small and some say things like "weight limit 65lbs".  since I'm putting over 100lbs of water and grain and kettle on these things that would be a no go right out of the gate.  I'd have to find the right induction burner so if anyone has suggestions that won't break the bank I'm listening!


Edited by Mando, 02 April 2020 - 11:46 AM.


#110 HVB

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 11:43 AM

Without digging through the thread, have you exhausted your 220v induction options?

Buddy of mine wanted to try homebrewing and got a 220v induction burner and was doing 5G batches and had a hard time getting more than a simmer. Now, I am sure if he insulated the kettle and did some thing sit would be better for for Mando's 10g batches I think it would not work that well.



#111 positiveContact

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 11:54 AM

Here is an example that would probably be pretty good for 5G batches.  I agree it might struggle for 10 gallons.

 

https://www.amazon.c...=52brewsamzn-20



#112 HVB

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 12:03 PM

That was the size he had if I remember correctly.  3000 or 3500.



#113 Stout_fan

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 02:36 PM

Looking at the SSR it is nothing other than a phase controller. You could do the same thing with a light dimmer,but it would need to be a BIG one.



#114 djinkc

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 03:27 PM

I bought a PWM circuit several years ago to control a SSR capable of handling 5500 watts. I wanted to have something to replace what I have in place when it fails.  I suppose I should try it out running a light bulb or something to see if it would actually work.  If it does it's pretty much what Mando wanted.  Turn a nob to adjust the boil



#115 jimdkc

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 03:50 PM

A PWM circuit driving an SSR should work just fine! 



#116 djinkc

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 04:28 PM

A PWM circuit driving an SSR should work just fine! 

Yeah, I figured but I can't tell which is my DC input and output.  Coin toss I guess



#117 HVB

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 04:30 PM

I bought a PWM circuit several years ago to control a SSR capable of handling 5500 watts. I wanted to have something to replace what I have in place when it fails. I suppose I should try it out running a light bulb or something to see if it would actually work. If it does it's pretty much what Mando wanted. Turn a nob to adjust the boil


I ran mine with a PMW circuit and SSR for years. I changed it when I wanted to have a temp readout for whirlpooling. I still have it so I can go back if needed.

#118 matt6150

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 05:04 PM

Here is an example that would probably be pretty good for 5G batches. I agree it might struggle for 10 gallons.

https://www.amazon.c...=52brewsamzn-20

I have a burner very similar to that made by Avantco that is 3500w. I got it from Webstaurant and it was well under $200 I believe.

#119 Stout_fan

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 05:27 PM

Yeah, I figured but I can't tell which is my DC input and output.  Coin toss I guess

Give us a photo of the SSR or mfr & part number



#120 djinkc

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Posted 02 April 2020 - 07:05 PM

Give us a photo of the SSR or mfr & part number

It's the PWM I'm not sure which is input and output.  The SSR is pretty straightforward.




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