313 replies to this topic

[HVB]

tubing

httpss://www.williamsbrewing.com/12-SILICONE-TUBING-sold-per-foot-P3483.aspx

 

Valve

httpss://www.williamsbrewing.com/0-60-ADJUSTABLE-PRESSURE-RELIEF-VALVE-P3453.aspx

 

SMB

 

httpss://www.williamsbrewing.com/1-POUND-SODIUM-METABISULPHITE-P1108.aspx

[positiveContact]

BOOM!

[Big Nake]

Thanks Drez. I was on Williams (one of the first places I checked) and I either couldn't find the tubing in the size I want (3/8" ID) or I couldn't find the spunding valve. Cheers!

[positiveContact]

Thanks Drez. I was on Williams (one of the first places I checked) and I either couldn't find the tubing in the size I want (3/8" ID) or I couldn't find the spunding valve. Cheers!

 

make sure you have a gas post connector with the threaded connector on it if you plan on doing it in a corny keg.

Edited by Evil_Morty, 28 April 2016 - 01:03 PM.

[HVB]

Thanks Drez. I was on Williams (one of the first places I checked) and I either couldn't find the tubing in the size I want (3/8" ID) or I couldn't find the spunding valve. Cheers!

I am here for you!!

 

[Big Nake]

I have two gas connectors... one threaded and one flared (or whatever it's called) so I'm good there. Cheers gang.

[Brauer]

Looking around I can't seem to find a place that carries SMB, the high-temp tubing and the spunding valve (which is called something else like a ball-lock pressure gauge or something). Farmhouse has a good price on the SMB, MoreBeer has the spunding valve and someone else has the tubing. If anyone happens to go down that path and finds a good source for all of it in the same place, please post. Thanks gang.

You shouldn't need the spunding valve if you transfer after fermentation and add a little sugar to restart yeast activity enough to scavenge the oxygen (much like SN does). You'll have less yeast in the keg, that way. Or you could add enough sugar to fully carbonate the beer, as I do, if you prefer, and still not need the spunding valve.

[neddles]

It's common for cask ale brewers to add finings/gelatin to the cask at transfer. You could do the same, in the keg.

I have done this in my cask. Just put in the sugar solution and the gelatin in when racking to the cask and hammer in the bung. Roll the cask around to mix and 2 weeks at 68F. It comes out very clear and carbonated. No reason it wouldn't work just as well in a keg.

[Big Nake]

You shouldn't need the spunding valve if you transfer after fermentation and add a little sugar to restart yeast activity enough to scavenge the oxygen (much like SN does). You'll have less yeast in the keg, that way. Or you could add enough sugar to fully carbonate the beer, as I do, if you prefer, and still not need the spunding valve.

Hmm, I like the sound of this better. Brauer, what do you see happening here... allow the beer to fully ferment and then transfer to a keg purged with CO2 along with a solution of water boiled with some amount of priming sugar? How much sugar do you envision here? Also, at what temp should I try to keep that keg? My on-deck fridge is set around 38° or so. My lager primary fridge is set to about 47°. And then force-carb with CO2 like I normally do? I kind of like that version better.

[denny]

Hmm, I like the sound of this better. Brauer, what do you see happening here... allow the beer to fully ferment and then transfer to a keg purged with CO2 along with a solution of water boiled with some amount of priming sugar? How much sugar do you envision here? Also, at what temp should I try to keep that keg? My on-deck fridge is set around 38° or so. My lager primary fridge is set to about 47°. And then force-carb with CO2 like I normally do? I kind of like that version better.

 

Priming sugar isn't German....

[Big Nake]

Priming sugar isn't German....

That's okay. I'm not bound by any rules.

[Brauer]

Hmm, I like the sound of this better. Brauer, what do you see happening here... allow the beer to fully ferment and then transfer to a keg purged with CO2 along with a solution of water boiled with some amount of priming sugar? How much sugar do you envision here? Also, at what temp should I try to keep that keg? My on-deck fridge is set around 38° or so. My lager primary fridge is set to about 47°. And then force-carb with CO2 like I normally do? I kind of like that version better.

Yeah, not German, but that's the solution I use to the German technique of trying to time the fermentation to seal at the right point in fermentation.

I would do it as you say. I add about the same amount of sugar as I would if I was bottle conditioning, but you could just add a small amount, something like a half ounce, or less, if all you want to do is scavenge oxygen. You'd want to keep it at fermentation temperature long enough for the sugar to be consumed (I let it sit in the mid 60s, since I prefer warm conditioning my lagers). Then force carb as usual.

[Brauer]

I have done this in my cask. Just put in the sugar solution and the gelatin in when racking to the cask and hammer in the bung. Roll the cask around to mix and 2 weeks at 68F. It comes out very clear and carbonated. No reason it wouldn't work just as well in a keg.

That's the classic British method, more or less. Time tested. Maybe you wouldn't want to roll it around if you were being hyper-vigilant about oxidation.

Edited by Brauer, 28 April 2016 - 03:05 PM.

[Big Nake]

Yeah, not German, but that's the solution I use to the German technique of trying to time the fermentation to seal at the right point in fermentation.

I would do it as you say. I add about the same amount of sugar as I would if I was bottle conditioning, but you could just add a small amount, something like a half ounce, or less, if all you want to do is scavenge oxygen. You'd want to keep it at fermentation temperature long enough for the sugar to be consumed (I let it sit in the mid 60s, since I prefer warm conditioning my lagers). Then force carb as usual.

This is a sort of "ray of sunshine" in this whole thing because I'm looking for ways to keep things as consistent with my usual process as possible and this solution allows me to do that without having to worry about the timing of things. So a small amount of water plus half an ounce of sugar to scrub out oxygen and then force-carb. That's great. Thanks Brauer.

[Brauer]

my mistake, they say to do it just after pitching the yeast. I've always done it just before (as in immediately prior) b/c I was concerned with the pure O2 not being good for the yeast until it has gone into solution.

The yeast should be well mixed into the wort, and oxygen
or sterile air added only after pitching, with a target DO level of approximately
8 ppm [4].

It occurs to me that an easy solution to this would be to add the yeast to the empty carboy, then splash your cool wort all you want when transferring from the kettle.

[positiveContact]

It occurs to me that an easy solution to this would be to add the yeast to the empty carboy, then splash your cool wort all you want when transferring from the kettle.

 

good thinking!

[positiveContact]

my spunding gear is showing up tomorrow.  I probably won't brew for some time now but perhaps another munich helles is in order to test the setup out.

[HVB]

my spunding gear is showing up tomorrow.  I probably won't brew for some time now but perhaps another munich helles is in order to test the setup out.

that was fast!

[positiveContact]

that was fast!

 

I was surprised too.  unless I read the arrival date wrong the it wrong which is a distinct possibility.

[HVB]

I was surprised too.  unless I read the arrival date wrong the it wrong which is a distinct possibility.

Williams brewing right?  Ordered yesterday?  Cali - limbo in a two days with priority maybe