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Ayinger Altbairisch Dunkel clone - let's figure it out!


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#21 positiveContact

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Posted 20 January 2015 - 10:27 AM

About an hour. Probably doesn't apply in your case.

 

thinking about it I don't see why I couldn't do the same rests.  I really question what changes after ~2 hours of mashing.  I think the enzymes are mostly denatured by then.



#22 Brauer

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 04:27 AM

thinking about it I don't see why I couldn't do the same rests.  I really question what changes after ~2 hours of mashing.  I think the enzymes are mostly denatured by then.

I always figured that, if I ever tried an overnight mash, I'd go up to ~160F before closing it up for the night.



#23 positiveContact

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 06:00 AM

I always figured that, if I ever tried an overnight mash, I'd go up to ~160F before closing it up for the night.

 

I've done that before although I'm not sure I really hit the 160F b/c it always seems to take more boiling water than the calculators predict.  Do you have one that you've found works well with cooler mash tuns?



#24 Brauer

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Posted 21 January 2015 - 04:33 PM

I've done that before although I'm not sure I really hit the 160F b/c it always seems to take more boiling water than the calculators predict.  Do you have one that you've found works well with cooler mash tuns?

I use the one in BeerTools Pro, but that is calibrated to my tun.  I don't think I've tried an online one in almost 10 years.



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Posted 12 February 2015 - 12:58 PM

here is what I have so far:

 

14 lbs munich malt

3.25 lbs pilsen

0.375 lbs carafa spec iii

0.5 lbs caramunich

0.75 lbs acid malt

 

mash at 150F (single infusion)

 

1 oz magnum for 60 mins

1 oz hallertau MF 10 mins

 

ferment on 833

 

water profile: 28 ppm CA, 3ppm Mg, 29 ppm Na, 29 ppm sulfate, 90 ppm chloride, 29 ppm bicarbonate (mash pH of 5.3)

 

OG: 1.052

SRM: 16.2

IBU: 25



#26 denny

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 01:43 PM

I've never really understood what the consequences are of different rests in different orders and for different amounts of time.  Do you know if there has been any research done into the effects of different mash temp profiles?

 

This kinda outlines some of it...

 

Posted Image



#27 neddles

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 01:44 PM

Looks good. With such a large percentage Im sure it will matter... Who's Munich and how light/dark are you going with it? Also, there are lots of options for malts called caramunich, again... What is your preference here?

#28 positiveContact

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Posted 12 February 2015 - 01:47 PM

Looks good. With such a large percentage Im sure it will matter... Who's Munich and how light/dark are you going with it? Also, there are lots of options for malts called caramunich, again... What is your preference here?

 

mine is best malz munich.  about 7L.  the caramunich is III (57L).



#29 positiveContact

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 05:09 AM

here is what I have so far:

 

14 lbs munich malt

3.25 lbs pilsen

0.375 lbs carafa spec iii

0.5 lbs caramunich

0.75 lbs acid malt

 

mash at 150F (single infusion)

 

1 oz magnum for 60 mins

1 oz hallertau MF 10 mins

 

ferment on 833

 

water profile: 28 ppm CA, 3ppm Mg, 29 ppm Na, 29 ppm sulfate, 90 ppm chloride, 29 ppm bicarbonate (mash pH of 5.3)

 

OG: 1.052

SRM: 16.2

IBU: 25

 

I'm not sure what happened when I typed out the water profile.  the calcium should be 48.  the bicarb should be 27.  otherwise correct.



#30 Brauer

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 05:16 AM

It looks good. The Caramunich shouldn't be too bad at that amount. If you find it comes out too sweet, leave it out next time.



#31 positiveContact

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 06:20 AM

It looks good. The Caramunich shouldn't be too bad at that amount. If you find it comes out too sweet, leave it out next time.

 

I initially wasn't going to put it in.  What do you think the right SRM for this beer is?



#32 Brauer

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 09:49 AM

I initially wasn't going to put it in. What do you think the right SRM for this beer is?

Dark brown, not black. You are probably in the right ballpark. For more complexity, I prefer Dark Munich over Crystal, for this style. You can still make a great Dunkel with a little Crystal, though, if it dries out enough.

#33 positiveContact

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Posted 13 February 2015 - 03:07 PM

I decided to drop the caramunich III down to 4 oz instead of 8 oz.  I just increased the pils slightly to account for the gravity change. 



#34 positiveContact

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Posted 20 February 2015 - 11:17 AM

so a question I have regarding this beer is the water profile.  when I look "munich" water in bru'n water I see that it has a fair amount of calcium but fairly low numbers otherwise.  my water on the other hand is fairly low in everything.  is there a way to add calcium without adding much else?  all of my "tools" for this add something else, sulfate in the case of gypsum, chloride in the case of calcium chloride, etc.



#35 denny

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Posted 20 February 2015 - 01:07 PM

so a question I have regarding this beer is the water profile.  when I look "munich" water in bru'n water I see that it has a fair amount of calcium but fairly low numbers otherwise.  my water on the other hand is fairly low in everything.  is there a way to add calcium without adding much else?  all of my "tools" for this add something else, sulfate in the case of gypsum, chloride in the case of calcium chloride, etc.

 

Don't use a city profile...you have no idea how or if they treat the water.  You'll have better results using a color/flavor profile.  I'd go for "brown malty".  For a lager, 20 ppm of Ca is plenty.  The only ting that Ca does is help the yeast floc, and lagering will do that anyway.  BTW, 50 ppm is plenty for an ale.

Dark brown, not black. You are probably in the right ballpark. For more complexity, I prefer Dark Munich over Crystal, for this style. You can still make a great Dunkel with a little Crystal, though, if it dries out enough.

 

This thread made me thirsty for an Ayinger dunkel, so I bought a couple the other day.  I'd say dark brown, but not dark enough to be opaque, with garnet highlights.



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Posted 20 February 2015 - 02:40 PM

This thread made me thirsty for an Ayinger dunkel, so I bought a couple the other day.  I'd say dark brown, but not dark enough to be opaque, with garnet highlights.

 

I've only had it the one time and I'm not the best at estimating SRMs.  what would you guess?  right now my recipe is around 16.



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Posted 20 February 2015 - 02:49 PM

for reference:

 

Posted Image


Edited by Evil_Morty, 20 February 2015 - 02:50 PM.


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Posted 20 February 2015 - 03:36 PM

I'd like to add that I really like the SRM chart with the second dimension of depth.  it's a lot more meaningful.

Don't use a city profile...you have no idea how or if they treat the water.  You'll have better results using a color/flavor profile.  I'd go for "brown malty".  For a lager, 20 ppm of Ca is plenty.  The only ting that Ca does is help the yeast floc, and lagering will do that anyway.  BTW, 50 ppm is plenty for an ale.

 

This thread made me thirsty for an Ayinger dunkel, so I bought a couple the other day.  I'd say dark brown, but not dark enough to be opaque, with garnet highlights.

 

so the malty brown has a pretty good amount of sulfate and chloride (50 and 60 respectively).  I find these beers to typically be kind of delicate but maybe I'm wrong.  would too much sulfate/chloride be an issue?

 

eta:  also bicarb is at 85.  mine starts at 27 so I usually don't add any of that.


Edited by Evil_Morty, 20 February 2015 - 03:37 PM.


#39 Brauer

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Posted 20 February 2015 - 07:58 PM

so a question I have regarding this beer is the water profile.  when I look "munich" water in bru'n water I see that it has a fair amount of calcium but fairly low numbers otherwise.  my water on the other hand is fairly low in everything.  is there a way to add calcium without adding much else?  all of my "tools" for this add something else, sulfate in the case of gypsum, chloride in the case of calcium chloride, etc.

I don't think you'll go wrong with CaCl2 in this beer. That's mostly what I use and it seems to work with the style. I wouldn't actively try to raise the gypsum, but you can add a little if you want to push the Ca a little higher and feel that you're pushing your comfort zone with Cl.  I wouldn't flinch much until I hit 70 ppm for Ca and Cl, but I would keep the SO4 at about half that. I might balance the sulfate a bit more for a hoppier Schwarzbier.



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Posted 21 February 2015 - 04:57 AM

okay - adjust some things to this:

 

Calcium (ppm) Magnesium (ppm) Sodium (ppm) Sulfate (ppm) Chloride (ppm) Bicarbonate (ppm)

Existing Water Profile   6   3 29 14   26   27

Finished Water Profile   30 3 29 14   68   27


Edited by Evil_Morty, 21 February 2015 - 04:58 AM.



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