2586 replies to this topic

[Big Nake]

Ken, tell me about the opal hops.

I have only used them for bittering so my experience may not contribute much here. They are clean and they did what I wanted them to do. I agree with Rich... slightly floral and some spice. I have heard some people say that they do not come across as well when added late which make them seem a bit like Tradition... better as a bittering hop than a flavor or aroma hop.

What ph target do you shoot for?

Around 5.2 or 5.3 in the mash. Some say anywhere from 5.2 to 5.4 is okay. 5.2 is supposed to be a good spot for all processes that are happening in the mash... better yield, better conversion, etc. Not sure on the science of it but that's my target based on various things I have heard and read. In the sparge, I just try to get my water to about 5.5 to 5.6 before adding it into the MT for the sparge so that I don't risk elevating the pH over 6.0 (which is supposed to be the threshold for additional tannin extraction). As a result of all of that, my sparge pH (sparge water plus the wet grains) comes in around 5.4 or 5.5 and my kettle pH ends up around 5.5 which Kai has mentioned to be a good spot for the boil. The higher the SRM of the beer, the less acid I need to reach those goals but the goals stay about the same.

[Big Nake]

Ah... I guess that is not an issue then if  you are building water from RO/DI, like I am.

Don't assume anything when using RO or distilled water. RO is not always the same in terms of mineral content and the pH of distilled water is still near 7.0 isn't it? The one place I was getting bulk RO from was making me suspicious so I sent some to Ward Labs and it still had over 50ppm of bicarbonate in it! Distilled is what I went to for awhile because all of the numbers *SHOULD BE* zero and with zero bicarb, getting the pH to play ball would be easier. I still keep distilled water primarily for things like Czech Pilsner so I can get that softer feel from it.

Edited by Village Taphouse, 01 April 2015 - 02:51 PM.

[Big Nake]

I know this looks like the same beer but it's not. I switched gears at the last minute and went with an Amarillo & Citra Pale Ale. 3 ounces of Amarillo late in the boil and then a dry hop addition of Amarillo & Citra. Pushing 50 IBUs and tasting nice while I fire up the grill...

[neddles]

Ah... I guess that is not an issue then if  you are building water from RO/DI, like I am.

Yes it is actually. I build from RO. An all pale malt beer will almost always need some acidity in order to get the mash into the recommended range of 5.2-5.5.

[haeffnkr]

Yes it is actually. I build from RO. An all pale malt beer will almost always need some acidity in order to get the mash into the recommended range of 5.2-5.5.

 

To clarify - What I meant was that I would not have to worry about reducing the bi-carb level since, in theory, there should be none to start with... or very little, especially when compared to most tap water, in my area any way.

I have an RO/DI filter so it should be zeros across the board.

I have not checked mine yet with Wards... need to... but the meter hooked up in line with the water shows 0 when it comes out.

 

Yes I add calcium and sometimes latic acid or acid malt to my water to get the ph right even for light lagers.

 

thanks for keeping me straight.

Kevin

[neddles]

To clarify - What I meant was that I would not have to worry about reducing the bi-carb level since, in theory, there should be none to start with... or very little, especially when compared to most tap water, in my area any way.

I have an RO/DI filter so it should be zeros across the board.

I have not checked mine yet with Wards... need to... but the meter hooked up in line with the water shows 0 when it comes out.

 

Yes I add calcium and sometimes latic acid or acid malt to my water to get the ph right even for light lagers.

 

thanks for keeping me straight.

Kevin

Ah, got it. Yep, were on the same page here.

[neddles]

My (Drez's) Simcoe Pale Ale

[Poptop]

Delicious.

Can you link me that recipe?

[neddles]

Delicious.

Can you link me that recipe?

https://www.brews-br...imcoe-pale-ale/

[HVB]

Damn you nettles... That looks great.

[neddles]

Damn you nettles... That looks great.

I took those pics last week when that beer was like 12 days old. It's a bit clearer now and just as tasty. Been giving it away to friends and it's going over quite well.

[ChefLamont]

I just might have to try that.  It looks delicious and I like simcoe.

 

 

Subbing the US05 of course.

[HVB]

Chef, I use 05 in mine.

[ChefLamont]

Yea, I have been burned by 05 too many times.  I may at best do a split batch or small batch and see what it does, but I am kinda in the blktre US05 no-fly zone as well.

[neddles]

Yea, I have been burned by 05 too many times. I may at best do a split batch or small batch and see what it does, but I am kinda in the blktre US05 no-fly zone as well.

i cant say I have done a side by side with it and 1056/001 but it is really the only dry yeast I have had success with. I prefer 1056/001 because they are done a day sooner.

[HVB]

Yea, I have been burned by 05 too many times.  I may at best do a split batch or small batch and see what it does, but I am kinda in the blktre US05 no-fly zone as well.

I misread what you wrote.  My bad.

 

Yes, I know some do not like 05, I am just happy it seems to work good for me.  Although on my next batch I will be splitting this with something and 1318.

i cant say I have done a side by side with it and 1056/001 but it is really the only dry yeast I have had success with. I prefer 1056/001 because they are done a day sooner.

A day would  not matter much for me.  Most of these beers stay the same amount of days no matter when they finished.  This one was 14 days before dry hopping.

[Mashman]

Belgian Blond fermented with Brett B 6lbs. of raspberries in the secondary.

 

httpss://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11096511_10205248039472383_7676397046483697676_n.jpg?oh=c44a24ba38bdf46b29c1d574a58e0491&oe=55B35EAA&__gda__=1437798030_65da74127c8b1bdf0a80bb2ce300d6f8

[Howie]

Yeah, that's a gorgeous beer right there. I'll take all the competition in the clear-beer department I can get. My mission is to get all homebrewer's beer to look like "beer" and not "homebrew"!

Yeah, I'm not a fan of this new movement where IPAs look like orange juice with lots of pulp (looking at you, Heady Topper).

[HVB]

Yeah, I'm not a fan of this new movement where IPAs look like orange juice with lots of pulp (looking at you, Heady Topper).

First off I agree with you and I think there are a lot worse than HT as can be seen by the photo compilation I did some time last year, HT seems to be more clear now than it was when it was first canned IMO.  I will say that on my last 2 hoppy beers I let the move through the process a bit faster and they were cloudier than normal for me.  One thing I did notice was a mouth feel that I had been searching for.  The picture below was shortly after it was kegged, looks much better now bit most importantly tastes great. 

 

httpss://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DVW-XMEdpoo/U-oeKTkf68I/AAAAAAAAFF4/Q0jQp6IXn2s/w1077-h697-no/hazy%2Bbeer%2B.jpg

 

httpss://scontent-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11134146_10153902017774657_8910204676133955308_n.jpg?oh=92d4c3f3aa66431c817cda1e8a9cdf0f&oe=55B23018

[positiveContact]

yeah - when the pliny clone was really cloudy was when it was the best.  it's still a great beer now but something has been lost.