46 replies to this topic

[HVB]

 

the main issue I have with it is i have to hold it down and it leaks some co2 so I'm wasting co2.  i like how a gravity feed is pretty much get it going and let it go.

 

That one I made with the tri-clamp fitting seems to do a good job at 1-2 psi and does not leak CO2.

[positiveContact]

 

That one I made with the tri-clamp fitting seems to do a good job at 1-2 psi and does not leak CO2.

 

for my 10 gallon batches - forced transfers are one of the possible options.  that reminds me - where is your build/parts right up?

[HVB]

 

for my 10 gallon batches - forced transfers are one of the possible options.  that reminds me - where is your build/parts right up?

Still in my head!  I will get to it, damn kids keep me busy.

[positiveContact]

Still in my head!  I will get to it, damn kids keep me busy.

 

I'm right there with you.  I'd say you have some time.  Probably no brewing for me until early fall.

[MolBasser]

 

I worry about it but there are limits to what I can reasonably do.

 

They can be reasonably overcome.

 

I'm currently working on a book about it.  See me in three years.

 

MolBasser

[positiveContact]

 

They can be reasonably overcome.

 

I'm currently working on a book about it.  See me in three years.

 

MolBasser

 

with money they can sure.  i'm just not there yet in terms of my setup.  i'm pretty close to nearly full O2 avoidance.

[neddles]

1.Do the whirlpool additions as you suggested. Stop chilling around 160-175F,  add the hops and give it a whirl. Let it rest for 15-20min. before you resume chilling.

 

2. Dry hop at room temp. Extraction reportedly works much better that at serving temp. My only experience here is that keg additions have not been as effective when I dont let the keg warm up first. (if its already been chilled)

 

3. Multiple dry hop additions. I know Firestone Walker does this and so does Jamil at his brewery. Jamil explained it like this... You add large quantities of hop material and a lot of it settles right to the bottom and is buried by other hop material or even yeast that may still be crashing out. Once buried and no longer in contact with the beer it does not extract any more flavor/aroma into the beer. Multiple smaller additions allow better extraction by avoiding this situation. I've seen nothing objective on this but couldn't ignore it considering who practices it and went ahead and tried on my session APA. I added 1oz per day for 4 days and crashed on the 7th day. The aroma in that beer was as good as any I have made. (it also included substantial late hopping and a whirlpool addition)

 

4. Crash out the yeast first. I have read/heard multiple times that the yeast will bind to hop resins/oils and crash them out when they drop. I can't say I have noticed a big difference between doing this and not doing this but it makes sense and if I have the time I will do it. Might also be a good argument for using english yeast... again like Firestone Walker does.

Jamil explains it better (and with a lot more cred.) in this podcast on double dry hopping. Enjoy.

https://thebrewingne...k.com/shows/982