74 replies to this topic

[MtnBrewer]

What gets placed between the heating elements and the bench?

The bottom of the kettle and about two inches of wort. Do you think I need to put a trivet underneath?

[HVB]

The bottom of the kettle and about two inches of wort. Do you think I need to put a trivet underneath?

My pots are directly on plywood and I have no issues. I am tiling the table just to make clean up easier.

[MtnBrewer]

I like that idea.

[matt6150]

My pots are directly on plywood and I have no issues. I am tiling the table just to make clean up easier.

What do you think about them sitting directly on a stainless table? Thought about finding some cork or silicone sheet to cut out.

[armagh]

The bottom of the kettle and about two inches of wort. Do you think I need to put a trivet underneath?

More curious that anything else. From the picture, it looks like the pots are sitting directly on the wooden table.

[MtnBrewer]

More curious that anything else. From the picture, it looks like the pots are sitting directly on the wooden table.

They are. I'm 5 degrees short of my strike temp so things are about to get interesting.

[djinkc]

More curious that anything else. From the picture, it looks like the pots are sitting directly on the wooden table.

Doesn't matter - my electric kettle has been sitting on plywood forever. EHLT is a converted sanke, it sits on a SS table.

[armagh]

Doesn't matter - my electric kettle has been sitting on plywood forever. EHLT is a converted sanke, it sits on a SS table.

So the heating elements are inside the kettles?

[djinkc]

So the heating elements are inside the kettles?

Yeah, most use a extra low density water heater element. I believe that's what the Blichmann's have too.

[armagh]

Yeah, most use a extra low density water heater element. I believe that's what the Blichmann's have too.

Okay, now I get it. I was thinking it was an external heat source. I feel shame.

[MtnBrewer]

So the heating elements are inside the kettles?

Yes exactly.Early reviews on the autosparge are not good. The thing sucks air in through the stop valve and blows it into the wort. If the beer isn't heavily oxidized it pretty much disproves HSA. Everything else is working pretty well.

[djinkc]

Okay, now I get it. I was thinking it was an external heat source. I feel shame.

Nah, someone here (davelew??) has external band/barrel heaters to do the trick. But they're on the side

[MtnBrewer]

I got the air leak in the autosparge fixed by opening the wort pump valve a little more. Positive pressure on the stop valve prevents it from sucking air. I got a different problem now though. I'm sucking air somewhere in the MLT output valve. There's a ball valve, a T, a male QD and then the hose with a female QD on it. Already tightened the hose clamp as far as it'll go so that's not it. Ideas?

[MtnBrewer]

Teh lurning curv. I iz on it. The faster pump rate compacted the grain bed to the point that I was sucking air through the sight glass. Must. Stir. Mash.

[djinkc]

Old dog - new tricks............I know that deal too well.And yes, your beer is ruined.

[MtnBrewer]

And yes, your beer is ruined.

Dammit!!

[BlKtRe]

Teh lurning curv. I iz on it. The faster pump rate compacted the grain bed to the point that I was sucking air through the sight glass. Must. Stir. Mash.

Which is why I refuse to use a FB in combination with a pump.

[matt6150]

Which is why I refuse to use a FB in combination with a pump.

Then what do you use?

[BlKtRe]

Then what do you use?

Copper manifold.Brewers in my club that use FB and pumps buy the heck out of rice hulls and found good results.

[MtnBrewer]

Not such a big deal. Just part of the process of learning a new system. Once I dialed in the pump rate it ran like a Swiss watch.Sparge went well and now I'm boiling. Eff. was better than planned (75%) but haven't calculated it yet. Guessing about 80.