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Ventilation Fan for Basement (and Electric Brewery Update)


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#21 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 08:10 AM

Like a reality show?

Um no. I don't think you would want that kind of attention. But it would solve any moisture problems.

#22 MtnBrewer

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 08:44 AM

But then how would I solve the resultant DMS problems?

#23 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 09:06 AM

But then how would I solve the resultant DMS problems?

Breweries do it all the time. So long as you are removing the moisture, you are removing the DMS.

#24 davelew

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 03:17 PM

If the window frame is steel, why not use a couple of big honking magnets to hold the fan in place, instead of the insulation?Here are four magnets with a pull force of 24 lbf each for $15: https://www.rare-ear...27-nsn0607.aspx

#25 MtnBrewer

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 03:26 PM

If the window frame is steel, why not use a couple of big honking magnets to hold the fan in place, instead of the insulation?Here are four magnets with a pull force of 24 lbf each for $15: https://www.rare-ear...27-nsn0607.aspx

The window itself is metal (steel or iron) but the frame is concrete. Still could work though. Interesting idea.

#26 MtnBrewer

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 09:34 PM

The last piece that I needed came in today so I installed it and ran a test boil tonight. Boiloff rate is impressive: 1.75 gal/hr. That's at 80% power. The steam wasn't too bad. There was a layer of fog right under the ceiling but I think I can live with it. A little condensation on the windows but very little on the walls. I had the door to the garage and the garage door to the outside both open. Also I tried to open the window over the kettles but it wouldn't budge. I'll have to try to push it open from the outside if I want to use it but I might not have to. Coulda sworn I opened that thing in the past.Anyway, there were a few minor leaks that I had to take care of but I think everything is functional now. Might try to do a batch this weekend. Only problem is I don't really have a starter ready.

#27 johnpreuss

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 09:55 PM

Might try to do a batch this weekend. Only problem is I don't really have a starter ready.

I vote S-04!

Edited by johnpreuss, 07 February 2013 - 09:56 PM.


#28 zymot

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Posted 07 February 2013 - 11:18 PM

tw

I vote S-04!

Or spring for 2 vials or smack packs

#29 HVB

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 05:25 AM

The last piece that I needed came in today so I installed it and ran a test boil tonight. Boiloff rate is impressive: 1.75 gal/hr. That's at 80% power. The steam wasn't too bad. There was a layer of fog right under the ceiling but I think I can live with it. A little condensation on the windows but very little on the walls. I had the door to the garage and the garage door to the outside both open. Also I tried to open the window over the kettles but it wouldn't budge. I'll have to try to push it open from the outside if I want to use it but I might not have to. Coulda sworn I opened that thing in the past.Anyway, there were a few minor leaks that I had to take care of but I think everything is functional now. Might try to do a batch this weekend. Only problem is I don't really have a starter ready.

What is the wattage on the elements? I get close to that for a boil off. I usually dial mine to 75% and then get about 1.5g per hour with a 5500w element.I agree with the S-04 comment. I plan to brew during the "blizzard" today and use S-04 in one of the carboys.

#30 matt6150

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 06:12 AM

This thread really makes me excited to get my electric rig built. I got almost everything to start wiring the panel. Still need to get elements and a bunch of fittings yet.

#31 MtnBrewer

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 08:48 AM

Will probably be US-05 instead of S-04 but yeah, dry is the way to go here. I have one pack but I assume two is better for 10 gallons.Drez I'm also using 5500W elements. When it got close to boiling I cut the PID back to 60% (in manual mode) and that didn't seem to produce a strong enough boil. Then I started upping it. 80% seemed to be about where I wanted it but 75% might have been fine too if I'd been more patient with it. I'm going to have the option of doing 5 gallon batches and for those, I'm guessing somewhere around 60% will be enough.Also, I had to put in a temperature offset on the PID because when I was boiling it was reading 199-200°F. I applied a 1.5° offset to get it to read 201°. Not a big deal.I'm getting more comfortable working with the control panel. At first I was a little intimidated by it but it's starting to feel natural. I have a copy of the manual for the PIDs and the timer printed out for handy reference. One thing I want to do is go through an auto-tune cycle on the HLT PID so that it can set its control constants correctly. I noticed when I was doing my test mash a few weeks ago that it tended to overshoot the temps at first.So the next step is to get all the other little things set up so that I can brew. While I was doing this I packed away the little nitnoid things like refrax, spray bottles, scales and whatnot to get them out of the way. Now I have to set everything back up to actually be able to brew. That I hope to accomplish tomorrow and then brewday will be Sunday. I'll try to get some pics of the brewday for y'all.

#32 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 09:15 AM

For 10 gallons of 1.050 gravity beer, use 3 smack packs. Recommended pitching level is 350B cells. 3 should be enough though.

#33 porter

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 01:13 PM

Saw the pics in the other thread. Very nice setup! How much cash do you have in all that, if you don't mind my asking? One day, one day...(I do the typical keggle, turkey fryer, cooler setup, but would like to do something more professional someday)

#34 MtnBrewer

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Posted 08 February 2013 - 01:16 PM

There's a few g's in that. Mostly in the control panel and kettles. I could have saved some money by going with cheaper components and doing more myself. But I reached a point where I got sick of the ghetto rig I've been using and just wanted something that wasn't held together with duct tape and hope.

#35 Stout_fan

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 08:38 AM

Saw the pics in the other thread.

OK Mtn, I found your query on how to mount a 2000 pound control panel. Where's the one on your electric brewery?

#36 MtnBrewer

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 09:45 AM

Crappy cell phone pic...gonna take some mo betta ones this weekend.Posted Image

#37 Stout_fan

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 10:13 AM

OK, now that's a serious control panel.It takes six handles to lift it!Manufacturer?The bench? 2x4 fir goodness?Nice Blichmann SS BTW!

#38 MtnBrewer

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 11:01 AM

Manufactured by Spike InnovationsBench is booty but it came with the house so I used it. May upgrade it some day but it's doing the job for now.The Blichmanns are $$ but have some very nice features. The false bottom in the MLT is dope. The pickup tubes are an RCH from the bottom. I lose 2-3/4 cups of liquid in the kettles!

#39 al_bob

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Posted 09 February 2013 - 06:38 PM

Manufactured by Spike InnovationsBench is booty but it came with the house so I used it. May upgrade it some day but it's doing the job for now.The Blichmanns are $$ but have some very nice features. The false bottom in the MLT is dope. The pickup tubes are an RCH from the bottom. I lose 2-3/4 cups of liquid in the kettles!

I have to figure some better way to get all of my liquid. Ghetto is okay for some stuff, but I need something serious for draining the boil kettle. A false bottom would be a start.

#40 armagh

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Posted 10 February 2013 - 11:13 AM

What gets placed between the heating elements and the bench?


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