Edited by miccullen, 21 May 2012 - 06:38 PM.
#1
Posted 21 May 2012 - 06:37 PM
#2
Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:27 PM
#3
Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:48 PM
Edited by KenLenard, 21 May 2012 - 07:49 PM.
#4
Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:51 PM
I am happy with Whirlfloc myself, it does the job and doesn't require any special preperation, I have to get more so I figured I'd see if the consensus had changedI chose Whirfloc. Somewhere I heard of people saying that Supermoss made Whirfloc look like Irish Moss. So I picked up some Supermoss where you just add ¼ tsp to some warm water and then add that with about 5 mins left. The label says you can use less but not more. What the hell does that mean? Anyway, my results were very lukewarm. I got some settling but nothing like Whirfloc. Then some people said not to mix the Supermoss with the water until just before you add it. Others said that it didn't matter when you mixed but it should be added more like 7 minutes before the end of the boil. I decided that all of that was madness and I went back to Whirfloc. I usually transfer around 4 gallons of ultra-clear wort to my primary. Once I get into that last gallon, I pick up some hop & break schputz but at least it's minimized. Whirfloc FTW!
#5
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:12 AM
Whirlfloc is just so easy and works so well. A club member swears by Supermoss and gave me a little container to try. I thought it was very meh when I used it, just didn't see the coagulation of proteins like I did with Whirlfoloc.BeachI chose Whirfloc. Somewhere I heard of people saying that Supermoss made Whirfloc look like Irish Moss. So I picked up some Supermoss where you just add ¼ tsp to some warm water and then add that with about 5 mins left. The label says you can use less but not more. What the hell does that mean? Anyway, my results were very lukewarm. I got some settling but nothing like Whirfloc. Then some people said not to mix the Supermoss with the water until just before you add it. Others said that it didn't matter when you mixed but it should be added more like 7 minutes before the end of the boil. I decided that all of that was madness and I went back to Whirfloc. I usually transfer around 4 gallons of ultra-clear wort to my primary. Once I get into that last gallon, I pick up some hop & break schputz but at least it's minimized. Whirfloc FTW!
#6
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:33 AM
#7
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:38 AM
#8
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:54 AM
#9
Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:11 AM
I am such a dumbass!!!! So you siphon the wort into your fermenter in order to not transfer junk? Heck, I thought whirloc helped everything settle during primary, so I didn't siphon from my brewpot.I chose Whirfloc. Somewhere I heard of people saying that Supermoss made Whirfloc look like Irish Moss. So I picked up some Supermoss where you just add ¼ tsp to some warm water and then add that with about 5 mins left. The label says you can use less but not more. What the hell does that mean? Anyway, my results were very lukewarm. I got some settling but nothing like Whirfloc. Then some people said not to mix the Supermoss with the water until just before you add it. Others said that it didn't matter when you mixed but it should be added more like 7 minutes before the end of the boil. I decided that all of that was madness and I went back to Whirfloc. I usually transfer around 4 gallons of ultra-clear wort to my primary. Once I get into that last gallon, I pick up some hop & break schputz but at least it's minimized. Whirfloc FTW!
#10
Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:29 AM
All these kettle finings being discussed are used to coagulate proteins in the boil so that it can be left behind in the kettle. Getting coagulation is one thing, keeping it from getting to the fermenter is another. It takes practice with your own set up to get good at racking to the fermenter while leaving break and hop matter in the kettle, but maximizing the amount of wort you pick up. There is endless discussion as to whether keeping the break out of the wort makes a difference in the finished beer. Personally, I do my best to get clear bitter wort into the fermenter, but, I don't sweat it if some break and hops make it over to the ferm. That being said, I am currently working on some system changes to help minimize the schputz that gets carried over.BeachI am such a dumbass!!!! So you siphon the wort into your fermenter in order to not transfer junk? Heck, I thought whirloc helped everything settle during primary, so I didn't siphon from my brewpot.
#11
Posted 22 May 2012 - 05:34 AM
I currently pour from my kettle to my fermenter in order to increase oxygenation before pitching my yeast. When making my last batch, I saw this ring of stuff during cooling ( I'm assuming this is the much talked about cold break), but I didn't see how I could avoid getting this into the fermenter. I was also assuming that whirfloc would work in the fermenter.All these kettle finings being discussed are used to coagulate proteins in the boil so that it can be left behind in the kettle. Getting coagulation is one thing, keeping it from getting to the fermenter is another. It takes practice with your own set up to get good at racking to the fermenter while leaving break and hop matter in the kettle, but maximizing the amount of wort you pick up. There is endless discussion as to whether keeping the break out of the wort makes a difference in the finished beer. Personally, I do my best to get clear bitter wort into the fermenter, but, I don't sweat it if some break and hops make it over to the ferm. That being said, I am currently working on some system changes to help minimize the schputz that gets carried over.Beach
#12
Posted 22 May 2012 - 07:17 AM
#13
Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:32 AM
#14
Posted 22 May 2012 - 10:28 AM
Edited by KenLenard, 22 May 2012 - 10:30 AM.
#15
Posted 22 May 2012 - 11:17 AM
#16
Posted 22 May 2012 - 01:27 PM
Ok... I'll bite (and plead ignorance at the same time)... how does one do this?I actually was contemplating making my own whirlfloc like substance last night, except I realized I would take 5 years to use it up minimum
#17
Posted 22 May 2012 - 02:07 PM
But your first beer was a hefeweizen right? Hefe is German for yeast so that sediment could have been just yeast settling out.I used hop bags a well, and whirfloc too. I thought that I might be missing something because my first brew had a lot of sediment in some of the bottles. I'm guess that I wasn't careful enough and tried to drain too much sludge before bottling.
#18
Posted 22 May 2012 - 02:10 PM
No my first beer was an amber ale. The second was a Hefe...thanks to noticing tho!But your first beer was a hefeweizen right? Hefe is German for yeast so that sediment could have been just yeast settling out.
#19
Posted 22 May 2012 - 02:14 PM
one contemplates buying kappa carrageenan in bulk, and mixing it with finely powdered Irish Moss, then measuring out small specific amounts into the kettle, in lieu of the pre dosed tabletsone would be nucking futs to really do thisOk... I'll bite (and plead ignorance at the same time)... how does one do this?
#20
Posted 22 May 2012 - 04:11 PM
So, I guess it'll be a busy weekend.one contemplates buying kappa carrageenan in bulk, and mixing it with finely powdered Irish Moss, then measuring out small specific amounts into the kettle, in lieu of the pre dosed tabletsone would be nucking futs to really do this
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