82 replies to this topic

[SnailPowered]

That SABCO Keggle looks awesome, but in the interest of saving a few bucks I think I will break the law and convert the one in my storage unit. I will definitely get the false bottom unless someone has a good reason not to. Their burner is a pretty good price too compared to the other ones I have looked at but I bet I could get a burner at a garage sale for $10-$15. So get two SS coils for a little more than the price of a copper coil use an ice bath? I like the idea!As far as being a patron, from what I could tell being a patron doesn't really get you much does it? I have no problem paying, it isn't a lot.

[ThroatwobblerMangrove]

As far as being a patron, from what I could tell being a patron doesn't really get you much does it? I have no problem paying, it isn't a lot.

extended edit times and the moral high ground?

[strangebrewer]

... the moral high ground?

Worth every penny.

[SnailPowered]

...the moral high ground?

Can I place a sand bag bunker and a M2 .50 Cal. on this high ground? Or better yet the M2 and a MK19? At least then I could punish anyone approaching my moral high ground hahahah. I figured from what I read that it was money well spent to ensure that I had a place to get advice, share experience, and make friends that have an interest in common with me.EDIT: I purchased How To Brew by Palmer as well as Radical Brewing tonight so I should get them in a couple weeks! Thanks for the suggestions and I can't wait to get more questions about the process!

Edited by SnailPowered, 23 May 2010 - 04:13 PM.

[ChefLamont]

Welcome and also thanks for your service. I can already tell you are gonna fit in well around here. Jumping in on page three, there is not a ton new I can say. You have gotten a lot of good advice already. The one thing I will add that is a REALLY good idea is when you get home, find another home brewer in your area and brew with him/her. If they are fairly experienced, you can learn more in one or two brew sessions than a lot of hours in the books. 99% of home brewers are happy to teach a new guy and are appreciative of the help on brew day (brewing is not a spectator sport!)I will echo George as well. Pay attention to sanitation. If sanitation practice is off, the rest kinda doesnt matter.Beyond that, fermentation temp control and full-volume boils are keys to good beer, but you can jump in without getting too crazy with those things.

[SnailPowered]

I was reading the instructions on some of the Midwest Supply ingredient kits and it doesn't seem like it is too difficult to steep the grains...that being said it has been advised to stay away from it. Of course, go figure all the beer I REALLY like is a PITA to brew lol. Also, is it better to buy a kit or get recipe and follow the recipe? I am definitely going to start with extract brewing.I read the instructions on Watknee's Cream Stout and it seems pretty straight forward...or should I quit trying to resist the powers that be and just brew a hefe?

Edited by SnailPowered, 23 May 2010 - 08:54 PM.

[BrewerGeorge]

I was reading the instructions on some of the Midwest Supply ingredient kits and it doesn't seem like it is too difficult to steep the grains...that being said it has been advised to stay away from it. Of course, go figure all the beer I REALLY like is a PITA to brew lol. Also, is it better to buy a kit or get recipe and follow the recipe? I am definitely going to start with extract brewing.I read the instructions on Watknee's Cream Stout and it seems pretty straight forward...or should I quit trying to resist the powers that be and just brew a hefe?

Steeping recipes aren't that hard. IMO, there is no reason to limit yourself to extract-only. What you want to stay away from are the partial mash recipes that require starch conversion to get some of the sugars. Steeping recipes just use crystal malts, roasted malts etc that do not require conversion, so temperatures and volumes and water chemistry aren't a factor.I have to ask, though: Do you know what a sweet/cream stout is? It is a sweet espresso type beer that doesn't share much with Guiness except color. It's kind of thick in body from maltodextrin and/or lactose and is more of a breakfast beer than a session beer like Guiness. Here's what the BJCP has to say about the style:

13B. Sweet StoutAroma: Mild roasted grain aroma, sometimes with coffee and/or chocolate notes. An impression of cream-like sweetness often exists. Fruitiness can be low to moderately high. Diacetyl low to none. Hop aroma low to none.Appearance: Very dark brown to black in color. Can be opaque (if not, it should be clear). Creamy tan to brown head.Flavor: Dark roasted grains and malts dominate the flavor as in dry stout, and provide coffee and/or chocolate flavors. Hop bitterness is moderate (lower than in dry stout). Medium to high sweetness (often from the addition of lactose) provides a counterpoint to the roasted character and hop bitterness, and lasts into the finish. Low to moderate fruity esters. Diacetyl low to none. The balance between dark grains/malts and sweetness can vary, from quite sweet to moderately dry and somewhat roasty.Mouthfeel: Medium-full to full-bodied and creamy. Low to moderate carbonation. High residual sweetness from unfermented sugars enhances the full-tasting mouthfeel.Overall Impression: A very dark, sweet, full-bodied, slightly roasty ale. Often tastes like sweetened espresso.History: An English style of stout. Historically known as "Milk" or "Cream" stouts, legally this designation is no longer permitted in England (but is acceptable elsewhere). The "milk" name is derived from the use of lactose, or milk sugar, as a sweetener.Comments: Gravities are low in England, higher in exported and US products. Variations exist, with the level of residual sweetness, the intensity of the roast character, and the balance between the two being the variables most subject to interpretation.Ingredients: The sweetness in most Sweet Stouts comes from a lower bitterness level than dry stouts and a high percentage of unfermentable dextrins. Lactose, an unfermentable sugar, is frequently added to provide additional residual sweetness. Base of pale malt, and may use roasted barley, black malt, chocolate malt, crystal malt, and adjuncts such as maize or treacle. High carbonate water is common.Commercial Examples: Mackeson's XXX Stout, Watney's Cream Stout, St. Peter's Cream Stout, Marston's Oyster Stout, Samuel Adams Cream Stout, Left Hand Milk Stout

I mention it only because you said earlier that you liked Guiness and it would be a shame to brew a perfect example of a beer you don't like.

[ChefLamont]

.... and it would be a shame to brew a perfect example of a beer you don't like.

Dont know why but that made me Maybe because I have been there.

[SnailPowered]

Well, it sounds very good, but that doesn't necessarily mean I will like it I suppose. I don't particularly like hoppy beer. I guess I could buy some Watney's and try it first. I have had some honey beer before that I really liked, I want to say it was a honey ale. I want to say that I have had Samuel Adams Cream Stout and enjoyed it, but i have tried so many beers I forget what all I have had. I do like a bit more sweetness than most people. Luckily I have six months left to ponder what my first recipe will be, and then probably longer than that because I will visit the other patrons on this board and actually see what all goes into home brewing.I only figured I would start with extract brewing because that is the advice that I have gotten so far. I plan on eventually stepping up to all-grain brewing so that I have maximum control over the flavor of my beer. Thank you much for your advice George!!

[ScottS]

Can I place a sand bag bunker and a M2 .50 Cal. on this high ground? Or better yet the M2 and a MK19? At least then I could punish anyone approaching my moral high ground hahahah. I figured from what I read that it was money well spent to ensure that I had a place to get advice, share experience, and make friends that have an interest in common with me.

Patronship also allows you more sig space, images in your sig, more rep points to give, more upload space, etc. Just a bunch of perks.Welcome to the board!

[SnailPowered]

Patronship also allows you more sig space, images in your sig, more rep points to give, more upload space, etc. Just a bunch of perks.Welcome to the board!

Artillery is great, but I'm more of a line of sight kinda guy, I like to see the effects of my rounds. I'm glad that I got patronship then, now I just have to find some SWEET stuff to add to my sig!Thank you everyone for the welcomes! I can't wait to actually start brewing, I try not to count down the days because it seems to make them take longer but it is really hard when I have interests I really want to pursue.

Edited by SnailPowered, 24 May 2010 - 08:15 AM.

[EWW]

I just noticed that you are going to try to get a transfer to Joint Base Lewis-McChord. If that happens let me know (I'm in Tacoma) and will give you a warm welcome. It's beautiful country up here.

[SnailPowered]

I just noticed that you are going to try to get a transfer to Joint Base Lewis-McChord. If that happens let me know (I'm in Tacoma) and will give you a warm welcome. It's beautiful country up here.

I am indeed. My girl lives up there so it would be nice to be closer to her. Her parents are also interested in getting into brewing with me if i get orders. Thank you for the invite!

[Deerslyr]

BTW, Snail, when you get ready to start, ask me about my ice-in-wort method. It's kind of controversial around here, but every new brewer I've ever personally taught has used it successfully the first few batches. One guy used it a dozen times or more. Basically, it's boiling 4 gallons of wort down to 3 gallons and adding two gallons of ice (roughly 16 lbs) to chill it. There is more to it, but no point going into it now.

This is basically how I got started based on the instructions from my LHBS. (of course you have to discount my Mr. Beer experience though)

extended edit times and the moral high ground?

This!

[SnailPowered]

Well I don't see how it would necessarily be a bad thing! I am willing to try anything if it comes from people that have tried it with success. The extended edit times have definitely proven useful, I'm still working on fortifying the moral high ground though. (<---Why does stabby look Mexican? Hahahahah)Thanks for all the help!

Edited by SnailPowered, 24 May 2010 - 06:12 PM.

[EWW]

Well I don't see how it would necessarily be a bad thing! I am willing to try anything if it comes from people that have tried it with success. The extended edit times have definitely proven useful, I'm still working on fortifying the moral high ground though. (<---Why does stabby look Mexican? Hahahahah)Thanks for all the help!

LOL ... ask CMS

[CaptRon]

LOL ... ask CMS

[Sidney Porter]

when you get back in the country you should look up the Savannah brewing club (guild?). Not that far from where you are stationed nothing like being able to talk directly to other brewers.

[SnailPowered]

when you get back in the country you should look up the Savannah brewing club (guild?). Not that far from where you are stationed nothing like being able to talk directly to other brewers.

Someone else recommended that and I will definitely try to go to a few meetings and a brew day if I can!! Thank you for the invite though!

[brewguy]

I am a relatively new brewer myself. Perhaps some of the decisions/mistakes I made will help you when you get started.I went to one of the LHBS, and they had a starter kit for about $140:- plastic siphon hose and racking cane- 5 gallon glass carboy- blow-off tube- cylinder airlock- 32oz. funnel- musting cap- 1lb. Corn Sugar (for bottling)- 1 case 12 oz. bottles- bottle caps- plastic bottle capper- bottle washer- plastic bottling bucket- hydrometer- hydrometer float tube- thermometer- carboy bottle brush- Papazian's book "Joy of Home Brewing"- drawstring bag (for steeping grains)The kit came with idaphor sanitizer, but after doing some reading, I went with starsan instead (I still have not used idaphor). I already had Palmer's How to Brew, but I got the Joy book anyway. Even though I go to Palmer's book as a reference, Papazian's "Relax, don't worry, have a homebrew." attitude is a good reminder not to get too worked up when you make a mistake. Also, I went with 22 oz. bottles instead of the 12s. It's less work to bottle plus a 22oz is just the right amount of beer when you are drinking.The LHBS had a binder full of recipes, and I went with a steeped grain scottish ale. I picked up the hops, grain, extract, and liquid yeast from the store. Along with supplying the kit and ingredients, the LHBS was a good resource to bounce ideas off of. I already had a turkey fryer with a 7 gallon pot and propane burner, so I didn't have to start out on the stove. Other than a boil over and slow fermentation start, everything went ok.I still use everything from the original kit. I did pick up a 6 gallon glass carboy. You do not have to worry as much about blow off with the extra head space in the 6 gallon carboy. I use the 5 gallon carboy for secondaries. If I had to make the choice again, I would have originally picked up a 6 gallon BetterBottle instead of the 5 gallon glass one. I don't do a secondary fermentation all that often, and I worry about dropping the glass carboys when I am moving them around the house.I moved into kegging right away. There were a couple of reasons for this, but the main one was I wanted to bring beer to tailgates and bbqs. I occasionally bottle, so I still use the bottle capper. The bottle washer can be used for the carboys, and the bottling bucket gets filled with starsan on brewday. Other than the carboy, no regrets on that original purchase. The next move was to full boils. I got a 9 gallon stainless steel pot because the 7 gallon pot was not big enough. I went to Home Depot and picked up 50 ft of copper to make an immersion wort chiller. The chiller was easy to make, but you may want to check on copper prices before you go with this option.From full boils, I moved to yeast starters. I picked up a yeast starter kit that came with a 2000ml Erlenmeyer flask. Pitching the right amount of yeast made a big difference in the quality of my beers. Fast fermentation starts, and I have not had any problems with fermentation stopping early.Since that first brew session, I have gone to a brew demo at one of the LHBS. This would have been helpful before I did the first beer, but I learned a lot from my mistakes too. I have not joined a brew club yet, but I am thinking about joining one before I start into all grain. One of the local clubs has brewing equipment that rotates among club members. This would give me a better idea of what I need before I start making a bunch of new purchases. One of the local places lets you brew in store (using their equipment). This may have been a good option for that first time too.Welcome to the hobby!