
Brand new, where to start
#61
Posted 25 May 2010 - 06:05 PM
#62
Posted 25 May 2010 - 06:24 PM
Edited by rcemech, 25 May 2010 - 06:29 PM.
#63
Posted 25 May 2010 - 07:13 PM
#64
Posted 25 May 2010 - 07:18 PM
+1S-04 is probably my favorite overall. US-05 isn't bad but I don't have much experience so I can't say for sure. Nottingham I generally like for stouts.While a starter is always a good idea with liquid yeast, it is not necessary with dried yeast. That is why I always recommend a dry yeast for the first batch.
#65
Posted 25 May 2010 - 07:33 PM
#66
Posted 25 May 2010 - 07:54 PM
I did dry yeast once. Didn't get nearly as good of a fermentation and it took forever to start. I was disappointed (I used US-05).Cheers,RichWhile a starter is always a good idea with liquid yeast, it is not necessary with dried yeast. That is why I always recommend a dry yeast for the first batch.
#67
Posted 25 May 2010 - 08:49 PM
#68
Posted 25 May 2010 - 09:13 PM
I've never ordered from Midwest myself, but I suspect they will have a dry yeast option for each of their kits. I know Northern Brewer, and More Beer both do. (Or at least they did; I haven't ordered a kit in a few years.) You may have to call them to get the dry option rather than ordering online.Where do you guys recommend getting ingredient kits from? Or should I use a recipe and get the ingredients separately? I looked at Midwest Supplies and the the kits that I bring up seem to never have the yeasts that everyone recommends. What is the difference between a propagator and an activator? I have done some stuff with Bondo and fiberglass so activator makes it sound like I need both lol. I guess for now it doesn't matter a ton because I am not actually going to be brewing for a few months, but it is definitely aggravating to be lost when I am trying to learn everything I can.
#69
Posted 25 May 2010 - 09:21 PM
Unless there is a kit that is highly recommended by multiple sources, then I would just buy the ingredients for a recipe. There are a lot of good ones and most extract versions are very simple, but they make a better beer. Also that way you know the ingredients are fresh and havent been sitting in a package for a year and a half. Midwest and Austin homebrew are good online sellers. You can order all your ingredients and it will be shipped together, steeping grains milled, hops, dry yeast and everything. I recommend you find a local homebrew store to buy the yeast if its liquid yeast so you know its fresh and kept cold.Cheers,RichWhere do you guys recommend getting ingredient kits from? Or should I use a recipe and get the ingredients separately? I looked at Midwest Supplies and the the kits that I bring up seem to never have the yeasts that everyone recommends. What is the difference between a propagator and an activator? I have done some stuff with Bondo and fiberglass so activator makes it sound like I need both lol. I guess for now it doesn't matter a ton because I am not actually going to be brewing for a few months, but it is definitely aggravating to be lost when I am trying to learn everything I can.
#70
Posted 25 May 2010 - 10:27 PM
This sounds like good advice. I like the sound of that simple stout mentioned earlier. Perhaps that is what my first beer will be. I am sure that there are LHBS in Savannah. I never looked for one because I was discouraged from brewing by my first sergeant. He used to do it and he said that it just became a hassle. Of course, I don't see him liking the things that I like so I am pretty sure that it will be one of my favorite hobbies. As odd as it might seem this is probably the LEAST expensive of all the hobbies that I am interested in hahahahah. R/C Cars and planes are not cheap even when you buy the cheapest stuff you can from Hong Kong, guns and reloading are very expensive (although I use the excuse that I am "investing" when I buy guns lol), motorcycles are two wheeled sink holes for money, and fast cars are four wheeled sink holes for money lol. So, brewing will be a hobby that is all the more affordable, and very gratifying every time I pop a top or tip the tap handle and take a long cold swig of the beer that I always wanted.Unless there is a kit that is highly recommended by multiple sources, then I would just buy the ingredients for a recipe. There are a lot of good ones and most extract versions are very simple, but they make a better beer. Also that way you know the ingredients are fresh and havent been sitting in a package for a year and a half. Midwest and Austin homebrew are good online sellers. You can order all your ingredients and it will be shipped together, steeping grains milled, hops, dry yeast and everything. I recommend you find a local homebrew store to buy the yeast if its liquid yeast so you know its fresh and kept cold.Cheers,Rich

#71
Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:06 AM
This. I've been using dry yeast almost exclusively for a year now (I say almost because on occassion I get part of a yeast cake from my buddy). I find it incredibly easy and have not had problems getting the fermentation going. My LHBS jokes and says its because I'm a cheap attorney... he's partly right. I feel like I would have to brew at least 2 consecutive batches off of a smack pack to make it worthwhile, but I brew once every 6 weeks or so and I like to have more variety... brewing the same styles back to back makes me "tired" of the style after consuming 10 gallons. (I'm the only one in the household that drinks beer.)While a starter is always a good idea with liquid yeast, it is not necessary with dried yeast. That is why I always recommend a dry yeast for the first batch.
#72
Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:06 AM
US-05 is my "go to" yeast.+1S-04 is probably my favorite overall. US-05 isn't bad but I don't have much experience so I can't say for sure. Nottingham I generally like for stouts.
#73
Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:18 AM
#74
Posted 26 May 2010 - 08:22 AM
Like I said, I used dry yeast once, maybe I did something wrong, but the beer seemed under attenuated. Since then I have used liquid yeast and made a fresh starter every time and haven't had a problem.Cheers,RichThis. I've been using dry yeast almost exclusively for a year now (I say almost because on occassion I get part of a yeast cake from my buddy). I find it incredibly easy and have not had problems getting the fermentation going. My LHBS jokes and says its because I'm a cheap attorney... he's partly right. I feel like I would have to brew at least 2 consecutive batches off of a smack pack to make it worthwhile, but I brew once every 6 weeks or so and I like to have more variety... brewing the same styles back to back makes me "tired" of the style after consuming 10 gallons. (I'm the only one in the household that drinks beer.)
#75
Posted 26 May 2010 - 09:53 AM
Any recollection as to which dry yeast you used? And what your OG was?For a moderate gravity beer (say 1.055 or so)one pack of US-05 will attenuate well.Like I said, I used dry yeast once, maybe I did something wrong, but the beer seemed under attenuated. Since then I have used liquid yeast and made a fresh starter every time and haven't had a problem.Cheers,Rich
#76
Posted 26 May 2010 - 10:40 AM
#77
Posted 26 May 2010 - 11:21 AM
US-05, and no, I have no clue what it was. It was my second beer ever so I could have messed things up in some way.Any recollection as to which dry yeast you used? And what your OG was?For a moderate gravity beer (say 1.055 or so)one pack of US-05 will attenuate well.
I did not rehydrate it. I think all I did was rack the wort into the carboy and then sprinkle the yeast in and swirl. I have no idea how warm/cold the wort was. I was using an ice bath to chill back then and it took about 2 hours to chill it to 60ish. Like I said, I just use liquid smack packs and make a starter now. Works really well, so I'm gonna keep doing it that way.Cheers,RichDid you rehydrate the dry yeast in boiled and cooled water? If not you are not getting as many viable yeast cells in your wort and that can cause what you discribe
#78
Posted 26 May 2010 - 11:31 AM
I don't rehydrate.Did you rehydrate the dry yeast in boiled and cooled water? If not you are not getting as many viable yeast cells in your wort and that can cause what you discribe
#79
Posted 26 May 2010 - 11:33 AM
Tell me about T-58. It would be handy to be able to whip out a belgian any time I wanted with no starter.I have recently used T-58 dry yeast on a couple of batches and it has been awesome. I haven't decided yet that it will be my goto belgian yeast, but I am close. I still like WLP500 a lot.
#80
Posted 26 May 2010 - 12:54 PM

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