good call on those books. Another book I would suggest is Randy Mosher's Radical Brewing. In my opinion it gives you the spirit of homebrewing without the out of date info that The Joy of Homwbrewing has in it (although I started with the joy).Kegs are a sticky issue with homebrewers. They belong to the brewery no matter how long you've had it. However, a lot of places will not give you back a deposit after xyz time period. It's really your decision what you want to do with that keg you have, but it is really the proper of the brewery.An Amber ale is just like brewing any other ale (like a hefe) except that the ingredients are slightly different ... kind of like if you were baking a wheat bread or a white bread. The only major difference is ale vs lager, otherwise it's a matter of ingredients. The lager yeasts work better a different temps, but as long as you stay within ales the same rules apply (although I wouldn't recommend a really high alcohol beer for your first few beers because they can cause fermentation issues and create overly sweet beers while you are learning the process).For the record you are asking a lot better questions then a lot of new brewers, so I think you'll be just fine when you finally get the chance to try it for your self.Well, I think I will start with How To Brew and Brewing Classic Styles. After reading the how to on the keggle conversion I do have a slight question. The keg that I am pretty sure is in my storage is from my kegerator and is pretty much beyond ancient now. I think I had it for about two months before I deployed and now it is sitting in storage for an additional year. Will the place I got it from even want it back? I have no problems getting a keg the legitimate way, especially if it costs the same or less than buying one of those big old brew pots.Is there any difference in the amber ales and normal ales as far as brewing goes? Would it be easier to start with an amber than a hefe? Thank you again!
Brand new, where to start
#21
Posted 22 May 2010 - 10:24 PM
#22
Posted 23 May 2010 - 12:02 AM
#23
Posted 23 May 2010 - 04:07 AM
#24
Posted 23 May 2010 - 05:13 AM
I think this is something that can wait a batch or two. If possible I think minimal investment should be made until he decides this is a hobby he wants to stick with.First off, welcome to the board and thanks for your service!I think that you will find that if you can read and follow instructions, you will be able to brew some really good beer. That being said, I would suggest starting with an extract only batch (as opposed to one that would use extract and additional grains) just so that you get an idea of how the process actually goes. I think most of us started that way. A hefe kit would get you going pretty quickly, and most don't have grains as an added step. And on the plus side, every homebrewer will tell you that they weren't patient and the first beer was bottled too soon or didn't fully carbonate. With a hefe, you can go from brewday to first bottle opening pretty quickly. And fermenting a bit on the warm side isn't fatal to a hefe.George is great for advice. When he harps on sanitation... listen to him. Guys... one thing I didn't see in all the responses, and it has to do with the larger pot, which means a full boil... but no one addressed methods of chilling the wort. Might want to invest in an Immersion Chiller that will fit in whatever pot he ends up getting. Snail, we all have different methods and styles... but I think you will find common themes in the advice. Keep asking questions. You are probably going to read a lot, and some of what you will read may lead to more questions.Good luck in your brewing adventure, even if it is 6 months down the road.
#25
Posted 23 May 2010 - 09:12 AM
If he's going to do a full wort boil how should he chill the wort? FWIW, when I started in extract, it was a partial boil and then the wort was "topped off" with cold water to bring the temp down. I'm not sure I would have chilled my first full wort boil without a chiller of some sort.{edit} I'm not trying to sound difficult... it's just been so long that I don't recall what method he should use... Cheers!I think this is something that can wait a batch or two. If possible I think minimal investment should be made until he decides this is a hobby he wants to stick with.
Edited by Deerslyr, 23 May 2010 - 09:14 AM.
#26
Posted 23 May 2010 - 09:19 AM
Deerslyr is right on this point, though. Several people have suggested full boils right from the start. That's okay, but the resulting equipment requirements are higher, and some kind of chiller would be required. Smaller partial boils can use the sink ice bath or put ice directly in the wort to chill it. Full boil cannot to that and must use at least an IM chiller to get to pitchable temps. (That is excepting the far-out non chill methods some of you guys use...)I think this is something that can wait a batch or two. If possible I think minimal investment should be made until he decides this is a hobby he wants to stick with.
#27
Posted 23 May 2010 - 09:19 AM
Ice bath is pretty much the only other cheap option. It takes a while but he'll appreciate the chiller if he decides to stick with the hobby (I think I made a chiller for my third batch). Just my 2 cents. It would have been great if I had known I would have loved this hobby right from the start b/c I could have bought all of the stuff I would have really wanted first thing but if I hadn't loved it it would have been a lot of investment. Who knows - maybe he'll like it so much he'll decide to skip the IC and go straight to a CFC. As for now I'm pretty happy with my very low tech setupIf he's going to do a full wort boil how should he chill the wort? FWIW, when I started in extract, it was a partial boil and then the wort was "topped off" with cold water to bring the temp down. I'm not sure I would have chilled my first full wort boil without a chiller of some sort.{edit} I'm not trying to sound difficult... it's just been so long that I don't recall what method he should use... Cheers!
#28
Posted 23 May 2010 - 09:21 AM
That's a good point - if he were to go that path I would say try to get the cheapest BK that he can. Even one of those lobster boiler things with the enamel would work well for that. I know guys who use those so they can straddle two burners on their kitchen stove.Deerslyr is right on this point, though. Several people have suggested full boils right from the start. That's okay, but the resulting equipment requirements are higher, and some kind of chiller would be required. Smaller partial boils can use the sink ice bath or put ice directly in the wort to chill it. Full boil cannot to that and must use at least an IM chiller to get to pitchable temps. (That is excepting the far-out non chill methods some of you guys use...)
#29
Posted 23 May 2010 - 09:28 AM
#30
Posted 23 May 2010 - 09:54 AM
Just depends how much you trust the ice company :frank:Pitch enough yeast and I'm sure it's fine.BTW, Snail, when you get ready to start, ask me about my ice-in-wort method. It's kind of controversial around here, but every new brewer I've ever personally taught has used it successfully the first few batches. One guy used it a dozen times or more. Basically, it's boiling 4 gallons of wort down to 3 gallons and adding two gallons of ice (roughly 16 lbs) to chill it. There is more to it, but no point going into it now.
#31
Posted 23 May 2010 - 11:14 AM
#32
Posted 23 May 2010 - 11:16 AM
I really wish I had a club or someone to show me the ropes when I started. I think it would have helped me realize right off the bat I was going to really get into this and it would have relieved some of the first brew stress that I was experiencingFirst, thanks for your service, & thank you for joining this board (as a patron no less!)A Hefe or a Wit, since you like Blue Moon would be a great start. Doing a partial boil in a 4 gal pot is ok, but as rcemech said boilovers are a bitch. You could pick up a 10 gal pot in a resturant supply in Savannah. The best way to start is to pick some simple brews like a wit or pale ale to get your technique down. Then go to the more challenging brews. The suggestion to read Palmer is spot on.When you get back, PM me. It's a little ride from Ft Stewart, but we have a Brew Club in Savannah, the Savannah Brewers League. 1st Wed every month at Moon River. We get together time to time to group brew. You're more than welcome to stop by. For those times you may run out of supplies, there is also a LHBS on Skidaway Rd.
#33
Posted 23 May 2010 - 11:46 AM
#34
Posted 23 May 2010 - 12:01 PM
#35
Posted 23 May 2010 - 12:36 PM
#36
Posted 23 May 2010 - 12:43 PM
#37
Posted 23 May 2010 - 01:29 PM
I think they are fairly comparable. The SS doesn't transmit heat quite as well but they are close. With relation to use - method is to use my IC to get the wort down to around 80F and then I use a ice bath to get me the rest of the way. I don't own a pump so I can't readily pump ice water into the chiller. The only way I could pull this off was if I had a pre-chiller (basically just another IC) to cool the water down prior to going into my IC.Is there an advantage to stainless over copper or vice versa? The immersion cooler I was looking at is SS and it's $54, which is a pretty decent price compared to the copper tubes.
#38
Posted 23 May 2010 - 01:46 PM
#39
Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:18 PM
#40
Posted 23 May 2010 - 02:23 PM
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