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#201 HVB

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 09:05 AM

Roll yer own

 

 

 

tc20eea_1.jpg

I paid that price for the end and the element.



#202 strangebrewer

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Posted 07 April 2020 - 12:56 PM

I have an option for you that would save you some free time, but at a cost. If you would like a turn key panel check this one out. I have another half way through the build. https://brews-bros.c...-control-panel/

Appreciate the offer Matt!  That's a pretty sweet panel setup but more than I want to do for my build.  I'm really driving to keep it as simple as possible.  Personally much like brewing in the 1st place I enjoy the build as much as the final product!

 

 

Roll yer own

 

 

 

tc20eea_1.jpg

 

 

 

I do prefer that design but not sure at that higher price point.  Did a little more digging on the brew hardware site and while the individual pieces to build what I wanted aren't available they have kits with all the pieces in them.  Now I need to find a 5500W element that fits this because those are out of stock but hopefully those are easier to come by elsewhere. 



#203 strangebrewer

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 05:17 AM

Here's an example of the type of Proportional Controller I was talking about. (This is a really good buy, too! They're usually $100 or more!)

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/130761827918

 

Unlike a standard SSR (apply voltage, it's on... remove voltage, it's off) this one controls the output based on a potentiometer connected to the control terminals.

So what is the difference between the one you linked and an SSVR like this one?  I understand SSR's but once you get into SSVR's and proportional control SSR's,... that's when the electrical voodoo witches come back into play.  As much as I do love blinky lights I also like the simplicity of the potentiometer driven design.



#204 HVB

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:02 AM

I am sure you seen this one, 4500W instead of 5500W  https://www.amazon.c...B078MFYTVX?th=1

 

Here is an interesting one https://milehidistil...240v-5500-watt/

 

Another option https://www.ebay.com...44AAOxy14VRQWJq



#205 jimdkc

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:42 AM

So what is the difference between the one you linked and an SSVR like this one?  I understand SSR's but once you get into SSVR's and proportional control SSR's,... that's when the electrical voodoo witches come back into play.  As much as I do love blinky lights I also like the simplicity of the potentiometer driven design.

 

That one specifies that it uses Phase Angle Control. This is like the old light dimmers that worked by allowing a certain portion of each cycle to pass through. Like this:

 

Msi9A.png

 

Phase angle control is very efficient, but results in a noisy, spiky signal that many types of loads (motors particularly) don't react well to.

 

Another type of controller might use a Zero-Crossing control where a certain number of full cycles are allowed to pass or are blocked to control the percentage of power. Like this:

 

scr_zerox_control.gif?width=293&height=1

 

A relatively low frequency Pulse Width Modulation circuit controlling a Zero-Crossing Solid State Relay works like this.

 

Another way of controlling power would be using a variac (a type of variable transformer) to control the amplitude of the voltage. A variac for this type of control is a very large, very heavy, very expensive variable transformer.

 

Here's an example of a Variac you could use to control a 1200 Watt load:

 

3pn1010B.1.jpg

 

It weighs 11 pounds and costs nearly $500.


Edited by jimdkc, 08 April 2020 - 06:54 AM.


#206 matt6150

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:44 AM

Appreciate the offer Matt!  That's a pretty sweet panel setup but more than I want to do for my build.  I'm really driving to keep it as simple as possible.  Personally much like brewing in the 1st place I enjoy the build as much as the final product!

 

 

 

 

 

I do prefer that design but not sure at that higher price point.  Did a little more digging on the brew hardware site and while the individual pieces to build what I wanted aren't available they have kits with all the pieces in them.  Now I need to find a 5500W element that fits this because those are out of stock but hopefully those are easier to come by elsewhere. 

No problem. I know buying a panel of that complexity is not for everyone. I enjoy building things as well, I guess that's why I keep building those panels. But this is my last one because they are just not as popular as they once were.

 

I have that same element enclosure you linked to on my system. I modified it a bit with a receptacle on the end but they work for me. I use this element. It's not stainless, I will probably upgrade at some point.



#207 HVB

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:46 AM

No problem. I know buying a panel of that complexity is not for everyone. I enjoy building things as well, I guess that's why I keep building those panels. But this is my last one because they are just not as popular as they once were.

 

I have that same element enclosure you linked to on my system. I modified it a bit with a receptacle on the end but they work for me. I use this element. It's not stainless, I will probably upgrade at some point.

 

I clicked on that link and it says I purchased that in 2013.  I am pretty sure I used that for 5 years before I went SS and still have it.  Those work just fine.  



#208 matt6150

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 06:54 AM

I clicked on that link and it says I purchased that in 2013.  I am pretty sure I used that for 5 years before I went SS and still have it.  Those work just fine.  

What stainless one do you have? I had gotten a Dernord(sp?) one but it wouldn't fit into my housing, threads seemed different.



#209 HVB

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 07:08 AM

What stainless one do you have? I had gotten a Dernord(sp?) one but it wouldn't fit into my housing, threads seemed different.

 

I think I have one from Brewhardware that I no longer use and then 2 Dernord.  One that has a tri-clamp for my kettle and one that is a screw in for my RIMS.  No leaks on my screw in but I did use a lot of silicone on it to make sure it would not.



#210 matt6150

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 07:56 AM

I think I have one from Brewhardware that I no longer use and then 2 Dernord.  One that has a tri-clamp for my kettle and one that is a screw in for my RIMS.  No leaks on my screw in but I did use a lot of silicone on it to make sure it would not.

It's weird, when I screw it in the threads seem very sloppy. It will start to snug down and when you keep going it all of a sudden becomes loose again. I just couldn't trust it.



#211 3rd party JKor

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Posted 08 April 2020 - 08:42 AM

for some reason I keep thinking about going BIAB and just using my 20 gallon kettle.  never having to move the kettle would be nice.  but then again that adds a whole bunch of things I'd need to change.  as it is I could just put the kettle on the propane burner but not use propane.

 

ugh!

 

I should probably just stick with something similar to what I do now.

 

 

My last greatest plan was to have a complete one kettle system from mash to keg.  I built a frame to mount an electric hoist above the kettle to remove the sack of grains.  I was planning to boil, chill and ferment in the kettle then use the hoist to lift the kettle and gravity transfer to the kegs.  Maybe someday I'll do it...




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