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wort aeration methods


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#21 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:36 AM

Nice find. It would've been even cooler if they did a data set with pure O2 injection for comparison. In any case, shaking seems like a decent way to go. Sure, it sucks shaking a carboy for 5 minutes, but it will get you over 90% O2 saturation.:P

good thing I only make 5 gallon batches...and that I'm totally ripped.

#22 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:38 AM

and that I'm totally ripped.

You're drinking at work?

#23 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:39 AM

You're drinking at work?

these guns don't go on vacation.

#24 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:54 AM

I downloaded the plot so we could have it on hand for future searches:Posted Image

#25 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 11:59 AM

I downloaded the plot so we could have it on hand for future searches:

very nice. :P

#26 DirtyRugger

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:06 PM

While I realize it isn't technically in the "oxygenating" category, I've use the olive oil trick several times and have had no problems. Basically I chill, fill my carboys and add a drop of olive oil to each one. My understanding is the olive oil has enough nutrients in it to substitute for oxygenating the wort. What I read originally was that you could take the end of a paperclip and dip it 1/4" into the oil and that would be enough. The first time I did it I split a 10 gallon batch and used olive oil in one carboy and the other I poured back and forth between 2 buckets 25 times. There was not noticeable difference between the 2 finished products.

#27 Genesee Ted

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:13 PM

If I am reading that chart correctly, manually shaking wort would be the best way to do this. Also, I didn't read that whole study, but if I am correct, it is based on oxygenation of water. Does the sugar solution that is wort change the results?

#28 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:24 PM

If I am reading that chart correctly, manually shaking wort would be the best way to do this. Also, I didn't read that whole study, but if I am correct, it is based on oxygenation of water. Does the sugar solution that is wort change the results?

Yes and you are correct but I don't know if it would change the results. I can't see an obvious reason why but I'll let the people with knowledge about such things speak to that.

#29 Genesee Ted

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:32 PM

My thinking was that perhaps somehow the sugars bond somehow with the O2. Shagaroo? He is a chemist and has the knowledge we seek (hopefully).

#30 djinkc

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:48 PM

IIRC O2 is less soluble in wort than water. And I don't understand that chart. I thought maximum O2 from aeration was around 8ppm. You can get much higher with oxygenation yet the chart shows near 100% saturation.

#31 brewguy

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:49 PM

I used to do the shake method, but now I use one of the mix-stir rods attached to an electric drill. Much easier on the back. There was a post somewhere about someone using the mix-stir along with pure O2. I was going to give that a try, but I am happy with just the mixing rod.The only negative with the mix rod is that I sometimes get too much foam in the carboy. Also, $20 seems like a bit much for a metal rod with a piece of plastic on the end. You should be able to make your own stir rod for less than $5.

#32 Pseudolus

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:02 PM

My truth is that I'm a lazy-American. I use the O2 canisters and a stone. Get, oh, a dozen or more batches out of each canister. Probably more.

#33 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:15 PM

IIRC O2 is less soluble in wort than water. And I don't understand that chart. I thought maximum O2 from aeration was around 8ppm. You can get much higher with oxygenation yet the chart shows near 100% saturation.

Maybe they are counting 8ppm as 100%. Maybe I'm not getting what you are saying about the chart.

#34 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 01:16 PM

I used to do the shake method, but now I use one of the mix-stir rods attached to an electric drill. Much easier on the back. There was a post somewhere about someone using the mix-stir along with pure O2. I was going to give that a try, but I am happy with just the mixing rod.The only negative with the mix rod is that I sometimes get too much foam in the carboy. Also, $20 seems like a bit much for a metal rod with a piece of plastic on the end. You should be able to make your own stir rod for less than $5.

Indeed - anyone have ideas for a SS something I could hook my drill too and have at the wort? It would certainly be easier than shaking.

#35 MakeMeHoppy

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:15 PM

Maybe they are counting 8ppm as 100%. Maybe I'm not getting what you are saying about the chart.

Air is mostly nitrogen. You can't get 100% oxygen into the wort when the air you are mixing in is mostly not oxygen.

#36 shaggaroo

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 06:08 PM

Air is mostly nitrogen. You can't get 100% oxygen into the wort when the air you are mixing in is mostly not oxygen.

Didn't read the study, but whether or not air is 100% oxygen (it's only 20% roughly) doesn't change that they could be using 8 ppm O2 = 100% saturation. And different O.G. worts will saturate at different levels of O2; don't know if it will be higher or lower than pure water but it will be different.

#37 djinkc

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 06:21 PM

My point was I don't think you can approach 90% O2 saturation with regular old air. You need pure 02. That's why the chart didn't make sense to me.FWIW, I use a SS stirrer on a nice cordless drill. I don't trust usual sanitiation on the spot welds on the stirrer so it goes in the boil with the IC at 25 - 20 min. I know this doesn't approach saturation that you can get with pure O2 but most of my brews don't need that. The few that need to drop 70 gravity points seem to get there with enough yeast.That said, by spring I would be surprised if I don't have an O2 setup. But being a part time Luddite sometimes I just want to keep things as simple as I can....... :P

#38 realbeerguy

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 08:18 PM

Sounds like you got quite the deal on the tank - how much is the diffuser? how much is it to fill the tank and how many batches does it get you through?

It came with 1500 psi of O2. I'll have enough for a lifetime.Using the S/S diffuser from B3. think it's a .5 micron. Rigged it onto an old racking cane. set for 1 atmosphere & let it rock for 2-3 min. 4 min for high gravity beers & meads.

#39 3rd party JKor

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 08:41 PM

It came with 1500 psi of O2. I'll have enough for a lifetime.Using the S/S diffuser from B3. think it's a .5 micron. Rigged it onto an old racking cane. set for 1 atmosphere & let it rock for 2-3 min. 4 min for high gravity beers & meads.

You're better off doing it in several 1-2 minute intervals for the high gravity beers. After about 1-2 minutes the wort is saturated anyway. Wait like 2 hours, then hit it for another minute.Some people say wait 12 hours, but my ferments are usually already going pretty well by then. Between the yeast grabbing the O2 and and any excess O2 simply coming out of solution, I think 2 hours is enough to drop you pretty far below the saturation point. Of course, this is just my opinion...at least until I buy that dissolved oxygen meter :).

#40 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 21 October 2009 - 03:00 AM

Okay you jerks you still have me considering spending more of my hard earned cash on a pure O2 system. What size holes in the stone would I want? What is my best bet for getting the pure O2 that won't be crazy expensive?


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