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brewtan turns strike water greenish?


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#21 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:07 AM

i should also add i put campden tablets in my water to treat for chlorine.  i forgot to mention that.



#22 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:11 AM

so any ideas?



#23 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:18 AM

so here is what I'm doing.

 

i have some sparge water I'm going to pre-heat.  water was treated with campden tablet and brewtan.  we'll see if heat makes it turn green.

 

in my strike water (also treated with campden tablet) I have added my calcium chloride and gypsum.  I'll wait to add the brewtan b until I see that the water is in the mashtun and clear.

 

if my sparge water turns green maybe that will tell me something.



#24 Big Nake

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:22 AM

That's weird. I posted that you should go ahead and try to use new water with brewtan and although it means another hour, that's what I would try. I have no idea what happened to my post. The campden is a possible issue but I'm just surprised that it hadn't been mentioned by anyone else.

#25 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:23 AM

i haven't noticed the water tasting funny lately but maybe they flushed the pipes or something?  I'm really wondering.

 

I'm also a little nervous to use my starter since the water came out of the main kettle that I measured and treated all of my water in.  the starter water was just treated with campden tablet though.  no gypsum, CaCl or brewtan b.


That's weird. I posted that you should go ahead and try to use new water with brewtan and although it means another hour, that's what I would try. I have no idea what happened to my post. The campden is a possible issue but I'm just surprised that it hadn't been mentioned by anyone else.

 

I pretty much have to use campden for my water.  i've never had an issue in the past.



#26 Big Nake

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:23 AM

Pour some of the starter liquid out into a cup and taste it.

#27 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:25 AM

Pour some of the starter liquid out into a cup and taste it.

 

I guess I could do that although since this is a 007 starter it's going to be actively fermenting when I pitch the whole 2L into my wort.  I'm not sure what I'd taste through all of that yeast.


Edited by Evil_Morty, 04 November 2016 - 06:25 AM.


#28 Brauer

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:26 AM

Apparently, tannic acid reacts with iron salts to form a dark green solution. Do you have a steel washer in your tun?

#29 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:28 AM

Apparently, tannic acid reacts with iron salts to form a dark green solution. Do you have a steel washer in your tun?

 

the inside is all SS washers and parts.

 

on the outside I used a part from a door lock as a spacer.  this doesn't touch liquid though.  it's 100% on the outside of the cooler.


Edited by Evil_Morty, 04 November 2016 - 06:30 AM.


#30 Brauer

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:31 AM

Any corrosion or scratches on the stainless? That can expose unpassivated steel. A bit of a stretch. Might be iron in the tap water. The drought could be decreasing the water quality.

#31 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:33 AM

so my sparge water just started to boil.  i'm not seeing a color change yet but it's hard to see in boiling water.  i'm going to let it cool a bit and look again.  strike water is still heating and still looks normal but doesn't have brewtan b in it yet.


Any corrosion or scratches on the stainless? That can expose unpassivated steel. A bit of a stretch. Might be iron in the tap water. The drought could be decreasing the water quality.

 

maybe. on my last brew i did clean some burnt on stuff with BKF before soaking my kettle with a solution of oxiclean.  i figured the acid in the BKF would repassivate though.  am i wrong?


Edited by Evil_Morty, 04 November 2016 - 06:33 AM.


#32 Brauer

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:33 AM

That makes it look like the tun.

#33 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:35 AM

okay, sparge water with brewtan b looks normal to me right now.  going to check on strike water again...



#34 Brauer

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:36 AM

Some acids repassivate better than others, iirc. It might take a bit of exposure time, but I'd have to look it up.

#35 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:38 AM

also - no rivets on any of the kettles I've been using for this brew.  i know sometimes the rivets on handles aren't SS.


i found an article talking about using BKF to passivate SS so I think I should be okay on that front.



#36 Brauer

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:38 AM

What's in the sparge water, so far?

#37 neddles

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:39 AM

I have confirmed iron in my water. I am tempted to throw a little brewtan in with this to see what happens.

 

Did you mash in with the green water?



#38 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:41 AM

What's in the sparge water, so far?

 

i measured all of the water in my strike water/BK.  I treated this with a campden tablet.  after 10 mins or so it looked all dissolved so I pulled out 2 gallons for my sparge water which I put into another SS kettle.  I then treated the sparge water with a little less than 1/8 tsp of brewtan b.  i then brought it to a boil to see if heat is a factor.

 

the strike water currently has campden, gypsum and CaCl.  it's being heated to strike temps right now.


I have confirmed iron in my water. I am tempted to throw a little brewtan in with this to see what happens.

 

Did you mash in with the green water?

 

i wussed out.  it was turning dark green.  like couldn't see through more than an inch or two.  worse than the picture I posted.


Edited by Evil_Morty, 04 November 2016 - 06:41 AM.


#39 neddles

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:42 AM

i wussed out. 

No wussy. I would not have brewed with it. 



#40 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2016 - 06:45 AM

so my strike water is up to temp.  add the brewtan before or after putting it in the MT (cooler)?




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