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working on a new IPA


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#21 MtnBrewer

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:08 AM

Here's the hop bill from that recipe, Guv.
 
[font="'courier new', courier, monospace;"]Hops

Amount Name   Form   Alpha  IBU  Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  1.10 oz.   Magnum   Pellet  12.20  23.5  60 min.
  0.55 oz.   Calypso (subbed from Warrior) Pellet  15.40  14.8  60 min.
  1.65 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40  16.4  30 min.
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90  18.9  15 min.
  2.20 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40 0.0  0 min.
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90 0.0  0 min.
  2.20 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40 0.0  Dry Hop1
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90 0.0  Dry Hop1
  0.55 oz.   Amarillo   Pellet  10.10 0.0  Dry Hop1
  0.55 oz.   Simcoe   Pellet  13.00 0.0  Dry Hop1
  2.20 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40 0.0  Dry Hop2
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90 0.0  Dry Hop2
  0.55 oz.   Amarillo   Pellet  10.10 0.0  Dry Hop2
  0.55 oz.   Simcoe   Pellet  13.00 0.0  Dry Hop2[/font]

Each dry hop addition is for 3 days at 70°F.

#22 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:16 AM

so how do you keep adding dry hops?  what do you put the hops in?



#23 MtnBrewer

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:23 AM

so how do you keep adding dry hops?  what do you put the hops in?

I put the hops in the fermenter. :) When fermentation is over, I'm going to collect the yeast through the dump valve. Then I'll add the first dry hop charge. After 3 days, I'll dump whatever has settled to the bottom and add the second charge. Then after 3 more days, I'll keg from the sample port. If you're using carboys, you'll have to rack but the notes do say that if you're worried about oxidizing the beer, you can just make 2 separate additions without racking in between.

#24 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:29 AM

I put the hops in the fermenter. :) When fermentation is over, I'm going to collect the yeast through the dump valve. Then I'll add the first dry hop charge. After 3 days, I'll dump whatever has settled to the bottom and add the second charge. Then after 3 more days, I'll keg from the sample port. If you're using carboys, you'll have to rack but the notes do say that if you're worried about oxidizing the beer, you can just make 2 separate additions without racking in between.

 

i generally don't do secondaries and just do my dry hopping in the keg.  I'd consider it I suppose if it would make awesome beer :)


Edited by TheGuv, 04 November 2013 - 11:30 AM.


#25 HVB

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:34 AM

i generally don't do secondaries and just do my dry hopping in the keg.  I'd consider it I suppose if it would make awesome beer :)

Do one dry hop in teh primary fermetner and the second dry hop in the keg.



#26 MtnBrewer

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:36 AM

i generally don't do secondaries and just do my dry hopping in the keg.  I'd consider it I suppose if it would make awesome beer :)

I like dry hopping in the keg too. I'm just nuts about Union Jack though so I'm going to try doing it Matt's way and see what happens. He's a big believer in warm (room temp) dry hopping for short durations.

#27 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 11:51 AM

Do one dry hop in teh primary fermetner and the second dry hop in the keg.

 

worth considering.

 

i would be a little concerned about hop contact time.  i'd have to crash chill the fermentor in order to get everything to settle well enough for me to siphon off.


Edited by TheGuv, 04 November 2013 - 12:04 PM.


#28 HVB

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:09 PM

worth considering.

 

i would be a little concerned about hop contact time.  i'd have to crash chill the fermentor in order to get everything to settle well enough for me to siphon off.

I have done it this way with good results.  I did a beer a couple months back that was inspired by Blind Pig and I did just what I said and it was great.  I did cold crash between the first dry hop and kegging. 



#29 neddles

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:44 PM

Here's the hop bill from that recipe, Guv.
 
[font="'courier new', courier, monospace;"]Hops

Amount Name   Form   Alpha  IBU  Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
  1.10 oz.   Magnum   Pellet  12.20  23.5  60 min.
  0.55 oz.   Calypso (subbed from Warrior) Pellet  15.40  14.8  60 min.
  1.65 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40  16.4  30 min.
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90  18.9  15 min.
  2.20 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40 0.0  0 min.
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90 0.0  0 min.
  2.20 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40 0.0  Dry Hop1
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90 0.0  Dry Hop1
  0.55 oz.   Amarillo   Pellet  10.10 0.0  Dry Hop1
  0.55 oz.   Simcoe   Pellet  13.00 0.0  Dry Hop1
  2.20 oz.   Cascade Pellet 7.40 0.0  Dry Hop2
  2.20 oz.   Centennial   Pellet 9.90 0.0  Dry Hop2
  0.55 oz.   Amarillo   Pellet  10.10 0.0  Dry Hop2
  0.55 oz.   Simcoe   Pellet  13.00 0.0  Dry Hop2[/font]

Each dry hop addition is for 3 days at 70°F.

Have a link to the full recipe? Or... would you be able to post your version in the recipe swap? Thx. There will be a Union Jack or Wookey Jack-like brew in my near future.


Edited by ettels4, 04 November 2013 - 12:44 PM.


#30 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:45 PM

I have done it this way with good results.  I did a beer a couple months back that was inspired by Blind Pig and I did just what I said and it was great.  I did cold crash between the first dry hop and kegging. 

 

did you find the hops settled to the bottom well enough?  at what point did you start the primary dry hopping?



#31 HVB

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:47 PM

This was the Union Jack recipe from Can  you brew it

 

Union Jack Clone

[font="calibri, sans-serif;"]OG 1070
IBUs 82.7
SRM 6[/font]

[font="calibri, sans-serif;"]6 gallons

6.3kg Pale Malt 81.9%
100g Simpson's Caramalt 1.3%
900g Munich 11.8%
380g Carapils 5%

90 minute boil

25g Warrior 7%AA at 90m
18g Cascade 7%AA at 30m
18g Centennial 10.5%AA at 30m
52g Cascade at 0m
52g Centennial at 0m
44g Centennial dry hop dose 1
44g Cascade dry hop dose 1

30g Cascade dry hop dose 2
30g Centennial dry hop dose 2
14g Amarillo dry hop dose 2
14g Simcoe dry hop dose 2

WLP002

Mash at 145F for 60m, 155F for 10m, then mash out

RO Water. Add gypsum and CaCl to 100ppm

Cool to 17C and pitch, raise to 19C after 24 hours.[/font]



#32 HVB

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 12:48 PM

did you find the hops settled to the bottom well enough?  at what point did you start the primary dry hoppig

They did settle out fine for me.  I usually will start the DH on day 5 or 6.



#33 MtnBrewer

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 01:26 PM

Have a link to the full recipe? Or... would you be able to post your version in the recipe swap? Thx. There will be a Union Jack or Wookey Jack-like brew in my near future.

 

https://www.brews-br...union-jack-ipa/



#34 positiveContact

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 01:47 PM

some more edits based on suggestions.

 

grain bill:

20.0 lbs US 2-row pale

1.5 lbs carapils

0.5 lbs C120

 

mash at 152F

 

hops:

1.75 oz chinook (60 mins)

1.0 oz willy (10 mins)

2.0 oz palisade (5 mins)

1.0 oz cent (whirlpool)

2.0 oz cascade (whirlpool)

1.0 oz chinook (whirlpool)

 

2.0 oz chinook dry hop in primary for a few days

 

dry hop in kegs as needed.

 

ferment on US-05 (probably 2 packets)



#35 neddles

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Posted 04 November 2013 - 04:55 PM

Much appreciated.



#36 positiveContact

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 05:05 AM

so i'm planning on splitting the base malt with GP and the 2-row and lowering the amount of carapils slightly.  i'll also be upping the whirlpool cent and chinook to 2 oz.  i may omit the willy and just use palisade.



#37 matt6150

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 06:40 AM

so i'm planning on splitting the base malt with GP and the 2-row and lowering the amount of carapils slightly. i'll also be upping the whirlpool cent and chinook to 2 oz. i may omit the willy and just use palisade.

Sounds even better! I usually use .5 carapils for 5 gal so about 1 sounds right for 10gal. If it was me I would totally loose the willy, but that's just me they have never been high on my list. I just made a IPA this past weekend. Used 6 oz of hops in the boil and will use another 3 for dryhopping, for 5 gal.

#38 davelew

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 06:45 AM

so i'm planning on splitting the base malt with GP and the 2-row and lowering the amount of carapils slightly.  i'll also be upping the whirlpool cent and chinook to 2 oz.  i may omit the willy and just use palisade.

 

My opinion: you still don't have enough bitterness in there.  I'd go with 3 ounces for the 60 minute addition of Chinook.  I'm a big fan of the bitterness you get from a lot of Chinook at 60 minutes, Chinook seems to give a more pleasing bitterness profile than most other bittering hops, especially in a beer with a lot of IBUs.  I'm also not a huge fan of Chinook with Cascade or other fruity American hops, I think it goes better with English hops like Willamette and Fuggles than with Cascade.  I've never used Palisade, but from what I've read it would work well with Chinook.

 

Also, I like to use malted wheat in my IPAs instead of carapils for body/mouthfeel, but that's justa  personal preference.

 

My go-to IPA recipe, scaled up to 10 gallons, is:

 

24 pounds Maris Otter

0.5 pounds wheat malt

0.5 pounds Weyermann CaraAroma (basically C120, but Weyermann malts are easier for me to get)

 

5 oz Chinook for 60 min

4 oz EKG for 20 minutes

4 oz Fuggles at flameout



#39 positiveContact

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 06:53 AM

I'm not a crazy bittering kind of guy with my IPAs for the most part.  I may round the 60 min chinook up to 2 oz though, partly just b/c I like to use whole amounts of things :)

 

interesting that you like the non-citrus-hops with the chinook where as most everyone was going in that direction.  i can dig it.  one thing to consider is that I find my home grown cascades are more floral and less citrus like.  it must be the growing conditions or something.  maybe I'll make this into a chinook, palisade, cascade joint.



#40 davelew

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Posted 11 November 2013 - 07:13 AM

I'm not a crazy bittering kind of guy with my IPAs for the most part.  

 

Then you might not want to take my advice on IPAs.




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