61 replies to this topic

[Recklessdeck]

End Cap: 4509K15Clamp: 4322K153Gasket: 4509K15So the idea is weld a coupler or even just a small tube into the end cap. connect a plumbing T. The side of the T is output to the steam manifold in the tun and the top is for pressure regulation.https://www.cookinga...et/miprrej.htmlYou can order the vent tube and regulater (jiggler) from the sight above. I *think* that vent tube is 1/4 threaded, but I'm not certain. But I imagine a handy fellow like yourself could make it work.Cost is around 50$ +whatever the sanke will cost you

[3rd party JKor]

End Cap: 4509K15Clamp: 4322K153Gasket: 4509K15So the idea is weld a coupler or even just a small tube into the end cap. connect a plumbing T. The side of the T is output to the steam manifold in the tun and the top is for pressure regulation.https://www.cookinga...et/miprrej.htmlYou can order the vent tube and regulater (jiggler) from the sight above. I *think* that vent tube is 1/4 threaded, but I'm not certain. But I imagine a handy fellow like yourself could make it work.Cost is around 50$ +whatever the sanke will cost you

Cool, that looks pretty good. Throw a 220V element in there and you're cookin'.

[BrewerGeorge]

Cool, that looks pretty good. Throw a 220V element in there and you're cookin'.

Only problem with that is that you don't know it's failure point. The pressure cooker is designed to vent enough when open to keep from blowing up. It will also have a pressure relief built in. I wonder if you could include a regular cornie's pressure relief valve (and if it would stand up to the temp).

[3rd party JKor]

Only problem with that is that you don't know it's failure point. The pressure cooker is designed to vent enough when open to keep from blowing up. It will also have a pressure relief built in. I wonder if you could include a regular cornie's pressure relief valve (and if it would stand up to the temp).

The link in RD's post was for a pressure cooker regulator, which would make it almost impossible to overpressure. Either way, adding a redundant pressure safety valve is cheap (McMaster). I'd definitely have to be sure it was safe before I used it.

[Recklessdeck]

I had planned to throw it on the propane burner myself, no messing with high voltage for me, thanks.George, how about making that T a an X, and putting a pressure gauge on so you can tell how many psi are in the keg? We know how much pressure a sankey can hold, and if the reg couldn't fast enough to keep the psi under 15 (this is the concern you have, right?) one could either open the vent or kill the energy input. Another option is to work a pressure canner over pressure plug into the system somehow.

[Recklessdeck]

The link in RD's post was for a pressure cooker regulator, which would make it almost impossible to overpressure. Either way, adding a redundant pressure safety valve is cheap (McMaster). I'd definitely have to be sure it was safe before I used it.

Jinx!

[stellarbrew]

Anyone choosing to construct a fired pressure vessel would be well-advised to consult the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code. Section I covers boilers operating above 15 PSIG, and Section IV covers boilers operating at 15 PSIG or below. Obviously, you cannot legally construct one of these at home, since you will be lacking the necessary qualifications and stamps. And I would never advise anyone to do so. However, I would advise doing some research of these codes to decide if you want to proceed with this endeavor. And if you do choose to proceed, you can get some valuable safety guidance for your project.

[3rd party JKor]

Another nice thing about a Sankey pressure cooker is that you could pressure can an insane amount of starter wort in that thing.

[EWW]

Anyone choosing to construct a fired pressure vessel would be well-advised to consult the ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code. Section I covers boilers operating above 15 PSIG, and Section IV covers boilers operating at 15 PSIG or below. Obviously, you cannot legally construct one of these at home, since you will be lacking the necessary qualifications and stamps. And I would never advise anyone to do so. However, I would advise doing some research of these codes to decide if you want to proceed with this endeavor. And if you do choose to proceed, you can get some valuable safety guidance for your project.

Thinking out loud....but you could weld a corny top to a keg and modify it a bit to use the pressure release valve as an emergency OMFG I don't wanna blow my self up precaution *has no knowledge of building pressure containers*

[3rd party JKor]

Courtesy of Yuri from HBT, Corny steam generator:

[EWW]

Courtesy of Yuri from HBT, Corny steam generator:

do you have a direct link?

[3rd party JKor]

https://www.homebrew...tem-yuri-27070/

[Stout_fan]

Thinking out loud....but you could weld a corny top to a keg and modify it a bit to use the pressure release valve as an emergency OMFG I don't wanna blow my self up precaution *has no knowledge of building pressure containers*

I see two problems:1. Cornies are rated at 120 PSI IIRC. So the OPD would be significantly higher than the 15 or so PSI you're aiming for.2. These OPD are made of plastic intended for room temperature or refrigerated use. Steam temps may affect them adversely.Please be careful here guys. As a live steamer (scale RR), we get into a lot of regs with the MD boiler commission since we operate in a public park. We're mostly water and our boilers are typically 1/2" thick 10" dia. steel tube. Typical blowoff pressure is 125 PSI. Although accidents in our hobby from plasticized crown sheets are minimal, it still is a bit dangerous. You guys are messing with stuff that can bite you. We would hate to lose any board members.

[3rd party JKor]

I see two problems:1. Cornies are rated at 120 PSI IIRC. So the OPD would be significantly higher than the 15 or so PSI you're aiming for.2. These OPD are made of plastic intended for room temperature or refrigerated use. Steam temps may affect them adversely.Please be careful here guys. As a live steamer (scale RR), we get into a lot of regs with the MD boiler commission since we operate in a public park. We're mostly water and our boilers are typically 1/2" thick 10" dia. steel tube. Typical blowoff pressure is 125 PSI. Although accidents in our hobby from plasticized crown sheets are minimal, it still is a bit dangerous. You guys are messing with stuff that can bite you. We would hate to lose any board members.

Yeah, the pressure relief on a corny is almost certainly unsuitable for steam service.Cornies are rated for 140psi at 70F. I think the pressure reliefs are set at 60psi.

[3rd party JKor]

I'm getting 10 stainless solenoids through a group buy on another board for about $28/pc. I didn't think I'd be able to get brass solenoids that cheap, let alone stainless. I'm gonna have all the hardware for this thing in no time!

[dondewey]

Have you thought about using an espresso machine boiler as your steam source? You should be able to find a "broken" commercial one for under $200. Various pumps and solenoids are the usual failure points. Basically junk everything but the element, boiler, pressurestat (adjustable from 0 to ~30 psi, turns power on and off with a 2psi dead band or so), pressure relief valve, and any fittings or valves you may want. You can even refill the boiler if it gets low without turning it off, and you could probably find some way to incorporate its ability to deliver hot water. PID control is pretty straight forward. It would be robust and mostly plug & play. Anyway, just an idea, good luck!Also, if you need any specific swagelock fittings, let me know I might have some laying around (I still owe you for setting up the grain group buy).

[3rd party JKor]

Have you thought about using an espresso machine boiler as your steam source? You should be able to find a "broken" commercial one for under $200. Various pumps and solenoids are the usual failure points. Basically junk everything but the element, boiler, pressurestat (adjustable from 0 to ~30 psi, turns power on and off with a 2psi dead band or so), pressure relief valve, and any fittings or valves you may want. You can even refill the boiler if it gets low without turning it off, and you could probably find some way to incorporate its ability to deliver hot water. PID control is pretty straight forward. It would be robust and mostly plug & play. Anyway, just an idea, good luck!Also, if you need any specific swagelock fittings, let me know I might have some laying around (I still owe you for setting up the grain group buy).

I think the espresso boiler would be too small. You need an awful lot of steam to raise the mash temp. The functionality would definitely be what I want, just not the size.I might have to take you up on those Swagelok fittings. I got a good lot, but there may be a few odds and ends I'm missing.

[dondewey]

For commercial machines they are typically ~5 liters per group. So, if you can find a 3 group one you are looking at a boiler of about ~4 gallons. They autofills typically keep them ~1/2 full of water, but you can adjust this.

[3rd party JKor]

For commercial machines they are typically ~5 liters per group. So, if you can find a 3 group one you are looking at a boiler of about ~4 gallons. They autofills typically keep them ~1/2 full of water, but you can adjust this.

4 gallons is a pretty good amount, more than I would have thought. Something to keep in mind, anyway. I'm going to see how my pressure cooker works out. If I need to upgrade I may consider that. How do you know so much about commercial espresso boilers?

Edited by JKoravos, 17 August 2009 - 07:04 AM.

[3rd party JKor]

A guy I work with is letting me borrow his MIG machine next week so I can get going on my stand. Hopefully, I can have the structure done by the end of next week.