The Gelatin Experiment
#1
Posted 10 July 2009 - 08:42 PM
#2
Posted 10 July 2009 - 09:37 PM
#3
Posted 11 July 2009 - 04:15 AM
#4
Posted 11 July 2009 - 08:56 AM
#5
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:01 AM
#6
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:20 AM
#7
Posted 11 July 2009 - 11:54 AM
Looks pretty interesting JK. I have always done secondary and cold crashing/aging to clear my beer. Lagers come out crystal clear. Are you using Gelatin from the homebrew store? I thought I read somewhere that you can use the jello gelatin clear variety? Never done it look forward to seeing how it goes for you. Good Luck!!The last of the MLPA from my first batch has been in the fridge for 2 weeks, its crystal clear now.
#8
Posted 11 July 2009 - 12:53 PM
#9
Posted 12 July 2009 - 05:53 AM
#10
Posted 12 July 2009 - 07:09 AM
So you think the cause of your haze is b/c you don't chill fast enough?I'm not worried about the taste of the chill haze, I just was curious about how well gelatin would clear the haze. Cold crashing certainly doesn't clear it. I think the problem is my cold break. I'm going to recirc chill on the next batch to see if that helps.
#11
Posted 12 July 2009 - 07:17 AM
#12
Posted 12 July 2009 - 07:37 AM
Yes, chilling the wort from boiling to pitch temp. I'm going directly from kettle to fermenter through my CFC. The CFC isn't terribly efficient, it takes maybe 15-20 minutes to get the whole batch through there. So a good chunk of the wort is sitting there near boiling for 10+ minutes. I think that's affecting my cold break.Could be a water/mash issue as well. I'll try the recirc/chill first because it's easier than fooling with the mash pH, water chemistry etc. I'll fool with that other stuff later.So you think the cause of your haze is b/c you don't chill fast enough?
#13
Posted 12 July 2009 - 09:12 AM
Have you thought about having the output of the CFC go back to the boil kettle until the wort in the kettle is at a specific temperature? I take the output of my CFC and feed it back through a whirpool wand of copper until the boil kettle is at 140 then I swap it out to go to my fermenter.Yes, chilling the wort from boiling to pitch temp. I'm going directly from kettle to fermenter through my CFC. The CFC isn't terribly efficient, it takes maybe 15-20 minutes to get the whole batch through there. So a good chunk of the wort is sitting there near boiling for 10+ minutes. I think that's affecting my cold break.Could be a water/mash issue as well. I'll try the recirc/chill first because it's easier than fooling with the mash pH, water chemistry etc. I'll fool with that other stuff later.
#14
Posted 12 July 2009 - 10:17 AM
Right, that's what I meant by 'recirc/chill'. On my next brew I'll probably keep recirc'ing back to the kettle until I hit my pitch temp.Have you thought about having the output of the CFC go back to the boil kettle until the wort in the kettle is at a specific temperature? I take the output of my CFC and feed it back through a whirpool wand of copper until the boil kettle is at 140 then I swap it out to go to my fermenter.
#15
Posted 12 July 2009 - 10:45 AM
My understanding is that cold break is increased by both the temperature you reach and the speed in which you reach it (thus quicker chilling improves the amount of cold break). So the recirculation chilling may actually produce less cold break than your CFC.You could also try a longer mash.Yes, chilling the wort from boiling to pitch temp. I'm going directly from kettle to fermenter through my CFC. The CFC isn't terribly efficient, it takes maybe 15-20 minutes to get the whole batch through there. So a good chunk of the wort is sitting there near boiling for 10+ minutes. I think that's affecting my cold break.Could be a water/mash issue as well. I'll try the recirc/chill first because it's easier than fooling with the mash pH, water chemistry etc. I'll fool with that other stuff later.
#16
Posted 12 July 2009 - 11:08 AM
Interesting. How long are we all mashing? I mash for 60 minutes on all of my beers and then 2 batch sparges that last 10 minutes each. Also interesting is the talk of the quick chill. I use a standard 25' immersion chiller which chills very quickly in the winter (often getting down to about 50° in ~10 minutes) and it chills to about 65-70° in 10 minutes in the summer. That, plus the Whirfloc and I have break material dropping to the bottom of the brewpot in no time. Cheers.You could also try a longer mash.
#17
Posted 12 July 2009 - 11:34 AM
#18
Posted 12 July 2009 - 11:49 AM
yep, I use gelatin at my serving temps. If you use it in room temp or cellar temps, it won't drop the haze you get at colder temps.Gelatin will drop chill haze out very, very quickly *if the chill haze has formed*. This is why it works best to use gelatin in beer that is cold. If you are gelling beer that isn't cold, it may take out some of the proteins that cause chill haze, but it won't be nearly as effective as when those proteins have clumped together as haze.
#19
Posted 12 July 2009 - 03:40 PM
???Recirc chilling should cause you to reach a lower temp at a much faster rate.My understanding is that cold break is increased by both the temperature you reach and the speed in which you reach it (thus quicker chilling improves the amount of cold break). So the recirculation chilling may actually produce less cold break than your CFC.You could also try a longer mash.
#20
Posted 12 July 2009 - 03:57 PM
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