right - usually 2-3 qts for a 5 gallon batch. very handy that a qt is pretty much a L.Go with the Quarts. Mostly because you know the volumes are closer to what your intended purpose is.

canning starter wort - worth it?
#81
Posted 29 May 2012 - 06:19 AM
#82
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:10 AM
#83
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:11 AM
most of the new "quart" mason jars you buy are actually 1Lright - usually 2-3 qts for a 5 gallon batch. very handy that a qt is pretty much a L.
#84
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:33 AM
which reminds me - how much can I fill each mason jar up? what keeps them from "boiling over" when they are in the pressure canner?most of the new "quart" mason jars you buy are actually 1L
#85
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:36 AM
I usually fill to the shoulder.which reminds me - how much can I fill each mason jar up? what keeps them from "boiling over" when they are in the pressure canner?
#86
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:42 AM
do they boil over?I usually fill to the shoulder.
#87
Posted 29 May 2012 - 07:48 AM
Nope. And if they did the lid would not seal. You cannot have anything in between the lip of the jar and the lid. I make sure those surfaces are clean of debris then snug the lid down before canning.do they boil over?
#88
Posted 29 May 2012 - 08:06 AM
have you checked out those reusable lids? the instructions on those is that you loosen the ring just a little during the boil and then tighten immediately after.Nope. And if they did the lid would not seal. You cannot have anything in between the lip of the jar and the lid. I make sure those surfaces are clean of debris then snug the lid down before canning.
#89
Posted 29 May 2012 - 08:20 AM
That is the correct procedure even for the metal lids.have you checked out those reusable lids? the instructions on those is that you loosen the ring just a little during the boil and then tighten immediately after.
#90
Posted 29 May 2012 - 08:29 AM
#91
Posted 29 May 2012 - 09:04 AM
yeah they aren't real cheapYou can reuse the metal lids as well a couple of times as long as you are careful. Eventually the lose their ability to seal, but we usually use them at least twice. It may not be worth it if you are only canning wort once in awhile, but a couple hundred jars a year adds up in lid cost.
#92
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:29 PM
#93
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:35 PM
The FAQ says: When in the cooker, my process is to lightly tighten the rings just to hold them in place and place them in the cooker. Then fill the cooker with about 3 inches of water. Let it boil for 10 minutes or so with the seal open, then close the seal. Once it reaches pressure, reduce head to maintain pressure, and I let it go 15-20 minutes or so, then kill the heat and let it cool down. This probably equates to 30 minutes of cooking under pressure, so maybe 45 from start to stop.6. cook at X PSI for Y minutes (what should X and Y be here??)
#94
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:38 PM
what's the point of boiling with the seal open? wouldn't it be fast to just close the lid on the canner and just go for it?The FAQ says: When in the cooker, my process is to lightly tighten the rings just to hold them in place and place them in the cooker. Then fill the cooker with about 3 inches of water. Let it boil for 10 minutes or so with the seal open, then close the seal. Once it reaches pressure, reduce head to maintain pressure, and I let it go 15-20 minutes or so, then kill the heat and let it cool down. This probably equates to 30 minutes of cooking under pressure, so maybe 45 from start to stop.
#95
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:40 PM
I was wondering that too.what's the point of boiling with the seal open? wouldn't it be fast to just close the lid on the canner and just go for it?
#96
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:40 PM
#97
Posted 31 May 2012 - 12:56 PM
do you tighten and then loosen it a little bit prior to placing in the canner? how loose do you leave the ring? after you remove the jar from the canner do you tighten the ring or will the cooling suction the lid on it's own?The few times I did it I never tightened the lids - gas needs to escape so a vacuum seals it during cooling.Let those suckers cool before handling. If you set a superheated full jar on the counter less than super gently it can erupt into a violent boil.
#98
Posted 31 May 2012 - 01:04 PM
I'm no expert on this. As I recall I tightened the ring to center and seat the lid, then backed off. You don't even need the rings after they cool.do you tighten and then loosen it a little bit prior to placing in the canner? how loose do you leave the ring? after you remove the jar from the canner do you tighten the ring or will the cooling suction the lid on it's own?
#99
Posted 31 May 2012 - 01:11 PM
i knew about not needing them after the lid has sealed up but i wasn't sure what was necessary to get the lid to seal well.I'm no expert on this. As I recall I tightened the ring to center and seat the lid, then backed off. You don't even need the rings after they cool.
#100
Posted 31 May 2012 - 01:15 PM
You want the ring just tight enough so that there's contact but not so tight that air can't escape. As it cools, the pressure from outside will cause it to seal. Sort of the opposite of applying pressure inside a keg to make the lid seal.i knew about not needing them after the lid has sealed up but i wasn't sure what was necessary to get the lid to seal well.
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