161 replies to this topic

[Joe]

You don't want to boil the lids - just soak them in 180F water. I have skipped this step without much ill effect, but it's recommended to ensure a good seal.We never let the canner boil prior to sealing - not sure what that would do.We just set a folded towel out on the counter to place the hot jars on and use canning jar tongs to handle them.One thing I am paranoid about is checking steam outlet for blockage. It's not a large opening and if that gets blocked you can overpressure the canner.Also - don't get impatient and try to manually depressurize the canner. Especially on the cheaper canners, the sudden depressurization can warp the pot and ruin the seal.

[gnef]

For me, I think I've been filling it up with too much water then. I've been filling it up to the shoulder. I will only fill a few inches in the future.I thought I recalled the general rule of thumb as 15 minutes at 15 psi which roughly equates to 250F at most altitudes for sterilization? at least, I think that is what I did in the past, and it worked well for me as I still have canned wort from years ago.I usually just let the bubbler keep going after I've turned off the heat. Once the pressure drops enough, then I set the bubbler on a tilt until all the pressure has been relieved, then I open up the lid, and then remove the jars. I definitely don't want something at that high of a temperature exploding onto me.

[positiveContact]

good info guys. am I crazy to try to make 10 gallons at once?

[positiveContact]

what mash temp would you guys use for starter medium?i'm using just 2-row pale malt.

Edited by StudsTerkel, 31 May 2012 - 04:32 PM.

[djinkc]

good info guys. am I crazy to try to make 10 gallons at once?

It depends on how big your canner is. IIRC mine said to put them in, bring it to heat without the weight on it and let steam blow out for a while - don't recall the time. Cooling takes a while before you can handle the jars without having them start boiling on you. You absolutely don't want to open the canner too soon. Get a jar carrier/handle. I think it took several hours to do a couple cases - five gallons maybe. It's been a long time since I did this.I'd do a practice run with plain water first - or not.eta - mash super low - you want all fermentables. 145df would be my guess

Edited by djinkc, 31 May 2012 - 04:36 PM.

[djinkc]

I know the last time I did this was a snow day, nothing much else to do. Took forever. I'd probably sell my AA canner if someone wanted it.

[gnef]

I would highly not recommend doing 10 gallons at once. It will be miserable, in my opinion. It will take longer than an actual 10 gallon batch of beer and you don't get any beer out of it.If possible, do a partigyle, and make 5 gallons of a bigger beer, and then run off the second runnings at 1.040 into the mason jars and can it while you are boiling the first runnings. This way it doesn't actually take any more time, just a bit more effort, and more to clean afterwords. If you do this enough, you can get up to 10 gallons canned after a handful of batches. I doubt you'd be able to get 5 gallons at a time, unless you planned for it, but again, you really don't want to do that much at once.I think that is a mistake that some make with canning - they do it in a way where it takes an inordinate amount of time that makes that process miserable, and they don't want to do it again. If you can integrate into your brew day, you won't be able to make as much at once, but it will be much more pleasant of an experience and you will be more likely to keep canning wort in the future. It can be very monotonous if that is the only thing you are doing for a full 10 gallons (40 quart mason jars, only 7 at a time in my canner - it would be pretty miserable for me).

[positiveContact]

gnef - we are in the same boat of number of jars in the canner. how about 5 gallons? my brew day is already challenging enough without worrying about a pressure cooker on top of that. if I'm ever looking to make a BIG beer I might consider saving second runnings and canning those.eta: how do you estimate the first versus second running gravities?

Edited by StudsTerkel, 31 May 2012 - 04:49 PM.

[djinkc]

I would highly not recommend doing 10 gallons at once. It will be miserable, in my opinion. It will take longer than an actual 10 gallon batch of beer and you don't get any beer out of it.If possible, do a partigyle, and make 5 gallons of a bigger beer, and then run off the second runnings at 1.040 into the mason jars and can it while you are boiling the first runnings. This way it doesn't actually take any more time, just a bit more effort, and more to clean afterwords.If you do this enough, you can get up to 10 gallons canned after a handful of batches. I doubt you'd be able to get 5 gallons at a time, unless you planned for it, but again, you really don't want to do that much at once.I think that is a mistake that some make with canning - they do it in a way where it takes an inordinate amount of time that makes that process miserable, and they don't want to do it again. If you can integrate into your brew day, you won't be able to make as much at once, but it will be much more pleasant of an experience and you will be more likely to keep canning wort in the future. It can be very monotonous if that is the only thing you are doing for a full 10 gallons (40 quart mason jars, only 7 at a time in my canner - it would be pretty miserable for me).

True, my brewdays are usually pretty busy though. Kegging, cleaning kegs and the fermenter. Add that to clean as you go and I don't have time to mess with canning. I timed myself on the last starter - 2.5L. 25 minutes from starting to finish. For me it's just easier - and have a beer during it. That 2.5 L would end up being 3 -4 quart jars if I did AG and didn't pour the break into the starter.OTOH, it was cool when I had all that canned wort. Only a couple minutes to sanitize and done.

[beach]

True, my brewdays are usually pretty busy though. Kegging, cleaning kegs and the fermenter. Add that to clean as you go and I don't have time to mess with canning.

Plus, it would require an additional burner, unless I wanted to keep going in and out of the house, not.Beach

[JMcG]

You should boil for 5 minutes without the weight to flush out the air (so only steam inside), then put on the weight and bring to pressure (15 psi) and process. I usually go 20 min. You should leave the weight in place, remove from heat and let the pot cool until the valve drops on its own.If you have any question about the process you should check with your Ag extension service on the web. And, read the instructions that come with the canner!If you have access to DME its just so much easier to do that. If you don't can other stuff or sterilize stuff for cultures/yeast farm you may want to skip the added expense and time, IMO.

[gnef]

gnef - we are in the same boat of number of jars in the canner. how about 5 gallons? my brew day is already challenging enough without worrying about a pressure cooker on top of that. if I'm ever looking to make a BIG beer I might consider saving second runnings and canning those.eta: how do you estimate the first versus second running gravities?

There is a thread on partigyle brewing, where brewers much more engineering-minded than I gave some ways of approximating the runnings. Honestly, I typically brew by feel, and things somehow work for me. I know that isn't the most helpful statement. I make some pretty big beers though, which gives some leeway with the second runnings (I can dilute, rather than trying to get a higher gravity). I would say even 5 gallons is too much to do at once. When I was doing this regularly, I would really only do enough to fill the canner once - so 7 quart mason jars. I didn't want to have to run the canner twice if I could help it. That actually jogs my memory - I would only add enough water for a single canning batch, so not a full second runnings in the original sense of the word.

True, my brewdays are usually pretty busy though. Kegging, cleaning kegs and the fermenter. Add that to clean as you go and I don't have time to mess with canning. I timed myself on the last starter - 2.5L. 25 minutes from starting to finish. For me it's just easier - and have a beer during it. That 2.5 L would end up being 3 -4 quart jars if I did AG and didn't pour the break into the starter.OTOH, it was cool when I had all that canned wort. Only a couple minutes to sanitize and done.

I don't find that brew days are typically that busy for me, especially during the boil for most beers. This is actually one reason why I like brewing - all the down time. If you are really busy during the brew day, then I can understand how adding a batch of canning would be over the top for you. For me though, I didn't find that it added too much for me. If making a starter as you need it works for you, and you prefer that method, then do what you enjoy!

[gnef]

Plus, it would require an additional burner, unless I wanted to keep going in and out of the house, not.Beach

Yes, that is my fault for assuming everyone had two burners. When I brew, I clean as I go, so the burner that was used for the HLT is empty by the time I get to the boil, and I just use that burner to can the wort right next to the boil kettle as the boil is going. I find it convenient to do this way, but yes, if you only had one burner, that would definitely be an ordeal, as you need to monitor the canner, and it would be a pain to monitor a canner and monitor a boil at the same time in two different places.

[positiveContact]

Yes, that is my fault for assuming everyone had two burners. When I brew, I clean as I go, so the burner that was used for the HLT is empty by the time I get to the boil, and I just use that burner to can the wort right next to the boil kettle as the boil is going. I find it convenient to do this way, but yes, if you only had one burner, that would definitely be an ordeal, as you need to monitor the canner, and it would be a pain to monitor a canner and monitor a boil at the same time in two different places.

that's the boat I'm in. making 5 gallons I could do it in 3 rounds of canning. doesn't sound too bad to me.

[gnef]

If you are up for it, then go for it!but my recommendation would be - if you haven't really done much canning, then I would recommend just canning one batch, and timing yourself for each part, so you know how long the entire process takes. There aren't really any ways to speed up the process significantly, so you can just multiply that by 3 to get the time it would take for 3 rounds, and then next time you know exactly what to expect.

[beach]

Yes, that is my fault for assuming everyone had two burners. When I brew, I clean as I go, so the burner that was used for the HLT is empty by the time I get to the boil, and I just use that burner to can the wort right next to the boil kettle as the boil is going. I find it convenient to do this way, but yes, if you only had one burner, that would definitely be an ordeal, as you need to monitor the canner, and it would be a pain to monitor a canner and monitor a boil at the same time in two different places.

I actually use 2 burners in my system. Buying a 3rd is pretty low in my list.Beach

[gnef]

Wait, if you have 2 burners, what is the second burner doing while you are boiling?

[beach]

Wait, if you have 2 burners, what is the second burner doing while you are boiling?

It's under ther hlt. I have a 3 tier and rarely pull the hlt off the burner. I'd just as soon leave it (keggle) up there unless something, ie:leak, makes me pull it down.Beach

[klickcue]

You should boil for 5 minutes without the weight to flush out the air (so only steam inside), then put on the weight and bring to pressure (15 psi) and process. I usually go 20 min. You should leave the weight in place, remove from heat and let the pot cool until the valve drops on its own.If you have any question about the process you should check with your Ag extension service on the web. And, read the instructions that come with the canner!If you have access to DME its just so much easier to do that. If you don't can other stuff or sterilize stuff for cultures/yeast farm you may want to skip the added expense and time, IMO.

ThisAnother thing to note is that standard quart canning jar is 1 quart / 1 liter to the rim of the jar (full). You will only fill the jar with about 750 to 800 ml of liquid. This allows for the liquid expansion. If you use 800 ml times the number of jars you plan to process, it will help keep your wastage to a minimum.If you add 2 to 3 tablespoons of white vinegar to your 2 inches of canner water, this will keep the mineral deposits from attaching to the jar.Learn how to cook a meal with a pressure cooker/canner. This will help keep the dust of the canner . A canner without a lid is just a pot. A nice beef roast can be done in about 45 minutes at 10 psi.Don't quick release the canner under pressure with jars inside. Let the pressure come down naturally. When purchasing a new cooker/canner, I would recommend that the canner will accept a quart jar. This will allow the canner to be used more often whether canning wort, produce or the evening meal.As Jim noted: read the instructions that come with the cooker/canner !

[Deerslyr]

I just have to say guys... this has been one of the most interesting threads of late. Anytime I see that a new comment has been added, I rush right to it. Probably because it is helping me understand pressure cookers, not only for canning wort, but other uses as well!