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My DIY Mash Tun


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#141 denny

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:36 AM

my efficiency never suffered switching to batching, my cooler and stainless hosebraid has had 1 stuck sparge in dozens of batches, my old false bottom stuck at least 6 times, then it warped

I average 85% efficiency batch sparging. In 418 batches I've never had a stuck runoff.

#142 denny

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:37 AM

So you don't let it rest at all? For whatever reason when I started doing all-grain (years ago) I must have read to let it sit for 15min and have been doing it ever since. Heck I don't even stir it. Just pour 180 water let sit for 15 min, vorlauf then drain. I wonder what kind of difference it makes? I

You don't need to let it sit at all and there's nothing to be gained from letting it sit. I stir in the water, vorlauf, and runoff. From the time I start the mash runoff til the time I end the sparge runoff is a total of about 15 min. for 7-7.5 gal. in the kettle.

#143 denny

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:38 AM

When I batch sparged, I would stir and let the grain sit for 10 minutes so that the sugars could get saturated into the water. Then I would vorlauf and drain. I usually split it into two batches. So to do a batch sparge would take me 20 to 30 minutes post mashing.

Uh, that doesn't happen. Save yourself some time.

Edited by denny, 23 April 2012 - 10:38 AM.


#144 djinkc

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:39 AM

You don't need to let it sit at all and there's nothing to be gained from letting it sit. I stir in the water, vorlauf, and runoff. From the time I start the mash runoff til the time I end the sparge runoff is a total of about 15 min. for 7-7.5 gal. in the kettle.

Denny, with all due respect to your braid, they're not all created equal. I have about 5 that were the biggest PIA on brewdays. Haven't stuck since I switched to a manifold.

#145 Mya

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 10:41 AM

Denny, with all due respect to your braid, they're not all created equal. I have about 5 that were the biggest PIA on brewdays. Haven't stuck since I switched to a manifold.

not all stainless reinforcement for hoses is created equal, some are too thin a gauge or too tight a weave, and collapse, or clog.

#146 denny

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 11:09 AM

Denny, with all due respect to your braid, they're not all created equal. I have about 5 that were the biggest PIA on brewdays. Haven't stuck since I switched to a manifold.

I agree that there are braids out there that don't work as well. I'm trying to find time to buy a few different ones so I can offer recommendations on what to look for.

#147 Deerslyr

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 11:34 AM

Uh, that doesn't happen. Save yourself some time.

If I still batch sparged... I probably would! :D

#148 denny

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 11:41 AM

If I still batch sparged... I probably would! :D

:D

#149 al_bob

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 12:55 PM

:D

I've heard there is no reason for a mash out on most brews because of the newer modified malts.Do you just drain your mash right after it's finished, after vorlauf, then add the 190 degree water and repeat?eta: ok I have your website pulled up and I'll look it over. Thanks!

Edited by al_bob, 23 April 2012 - 12:56 PM.


#150 MtnBrewer

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:19 PM

I've heard there is no reason for a mash out on most brews because of the newer modified malts.

No, that's the reason you don't need to do a protein rest.

#151 BlKtRe

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:24 PM

You can do a mash out in the Kettle. Doesn't have to be done in the MT.

#152 MtnBrewer

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:37 PM

You can do a mash out in the Kettle. Doesn't have to be done in the MT.

If you're fly sparging.

#153 BlKtRe

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:38 PM

If you're fly sparging.

Works good too.

#154 denny

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 01:43 PM

You can do a mash out in the Kettle. Doesn't have to be done in the MT.

Yep. Nothing like a rolling boil to denature those enzymes!

#155 brewman

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 02:28 PM

OK BACK TO TOPICOK due to the design of the bottom of my cooler I have to modify my manifold some. Below are two pics of how I can do it. Which one do you think would work best.Posted ImagePosted ImageDan

#156 Genesee Ted

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 02:33 PM

Why not go straight across under the drain tube? It looks like the drain is elevated no?

#157 BlKtRe

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 02:33 PM

A third option is to take the bottom design but remove that center pipe, keep the two shorty pipes and put a "T" right there for the drain.

#158 brewman

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 02:42 PM

If I put the T up top like I had it in the first place its way to close as seen in the pic belowPosted Image

#159 BlKtRe

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 02:57 PM

That looks good to me.Edit: Now I see what you are saying.

Edited by BlKtRe, 23 April 2012 - 02:59 PM.


#160 brewman

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Posted 23 April 2012 - 03:00 PM

I must be lost or stupid. I still need to attach a hose barb to the threads you see and then it will imposable to attach the end of the copper pipe to the hose barb.Dan


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