yeah - I'm not pitching lager big but pretty big all the same. it will be about a 2L starter. this yeast is supposed to be a poor floccer so I wouldn't think swirling would be needed.Cold, which is fine. Pitch big, aerate well and prepare for about a 2 week primary. After the main ferment subsides, it will also be a good idea to keep swirling the yeast back into suspension.

An Alt
#21
Posted 13 December 2011 - 03:31 PM
#22
Posted 13 December 2011 - 04:36 PM
I ferment around 61df. Never swirl. You may need to in the 50's though. I think Alts come out better with lagering - at my place that's ~38df for a month if I'm patient.Cold, which is fine. Pitch big, aerate well and prepare for about a 2 week primary. After the main ferment subsides, it will also be a good idea to keep swirling the yeast back into suspension.
#23
Posted 13 December 2011 - 07:12 PM
Its a top cropper. So the majority of the yeast stays in the krausen or blown into your bucket. Ive used this strain 50-60x and know it well. Id swirl it later in the game. But im weird like that.yeah - I'm not pitching lager big but pretty big all the same. it will be about a 2L starter. this yeast is supposed to be a poor floccer so I wouldn't think swirling would be needed.
Edited by BlKtRe, 13 December 2011 - 07:13 PM.
#24
Posted 13 December 2011 - 10:33 PM
Almost exact for me; 60-61 primary, lagered mid 30's for a month. Usually the lagering goes for 2 weeks then into the keg for carbing, but I do plan to wait a month at the beginning.I ferment around 61df. Never swirl. You may need to in the 50's though. I think Alts come out better with lagering - at my place that's ~38df for a month if I'm patient.
#25
Posted 14 December 2011 - 03:52 AM
#26
Posted 14 December 2011 - 05:54 AM
Wyeast suggests 55-68° Fso low 60s is the preferred temp? never used this yeast before.
#27
Posted 14 December 2011 - 06:07 AM
yeah - I saw that but I would guess that the character varies a lot over that range and most people have a preferred ferm temp.Wyeast suggests 55-68° F
#28
Posted 14 December 2011 - 07:03 AM
From what I've read and heard most go for the lower rangeyeah - I saw that but I would guess that the character varies a lot over that range and most people have a preferred ferm temp.
#29
Posted 14 December 2011 - 03:50 PM
#30
Posted 15 December 2011 - 06:00 PM
#31
Posted 15 December 2011 - 06:02 PM
ROT is boil 90 with Pils to avoid DMS. I've been using Canada Malting Pils and cheating - no DMS. But If I'm not in a hurry I do anyway, cheap insurance. Remember to adjust for extra boiloff.is a 90 min boil out of order here? I sometimes do them for recipes with a good amount of pils but sometimes I don't...
#32
Posted 15 December 2011 - 06:06 PM
i've been using best malz pils. in a recipe like this I'm kind of borderline since it's only half pils. my o'fest is a little more than half pils and I've been doing 60 min boils on those without any issue - I'm almost talking myself into saving some fuel hereROT is boil 90 with Pils to avoid DMS. I've been using Canada Malting Pils and cheating - no DMS. But If I'm not in a hurry I do anyway, cheap insurance. Remember to adjust for extra boiloff.

Edited by StudsTerkel, 15 December 2011 - 06:07 PM.
#33
Posted 15 December 2011 - 06:19 PM

#34
Posted 15 December 2011 - 08:25 PM
Edited by BlKtRe, 15 December 2011 - 08:25 PM.
#35
Posted 15 December 2011 - 09:12 PM
For just tossing it around, I'd like to hear why. Just so I don't have to guess.I'm a 75 min boil guy on most styles except for Pilsner's or big beers..

#36
Posted 16 December 2011 - 11:26 AM
It allows the boil to stabilize pushing foam and protiens to the side. Which helps with a more accurate pre hop/OG sample. Also helps keep any boil over from happening when adding the addition. Pilsners and big beers for DMS and OG reasons aren't included. My theory anyways.For just tossing it around, I'd like to hear why. Just so I don't have to guess.
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#37
Posted 16 December 2011 - 11:37 AM
i suppose I could probably tack 10 mins on officially. I usually let the foam die down before I start the clock.It allows the boil to stabilize pushing foam and protiens to the side. Which helps with a more accurate pre hop/OG sample. Also helps keep any boil over from happening when adding the addition. Pilsners and big beers for DMS and OG reasons aren't included. My theory anyways.
#38
Posted 16 December 2011 - 04:30 PM
Makes sense to me. With 70 min it does let things settle down before a 60 min addition goes in. Lately I've given up on pre hop gravity because a ton of FWH pellets was already in the kettle. Hard to get a refractometer reading when 8 oz of pellets is already in there.It allows the boil to stabilize pushing foam and protiens to the side. Which helps with a more accurate pre hop/OG sample. Also helps keep any boil over from happening when adding the addition. Pilsners and big beers for DMS and OG reasons aren't included. My theory anyways.
#39
Posted 23 December 2011 - 04:42 AM
#40
Posted 23 December 2011 - 07:15 AM
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