146 replies to this topic

[gnef]

Here is a cheaper one that looks to be analog:https://www.amazon.com/8-000-Mini-Compact-Window-Conditioner/dp/B0036WTWGCbut one of the reviews that they could see light coming in from one side to the other did not seem like something I would want. Here is the wiring diagram though:https://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Edison/202020490172.pdfThoughts? Going with the cheaper one will save me 80 dollars, and if it is easier to wire, that would also be nice, but I want to make sure it will seal and be able to cool down the chambers effectively.

[BlKtRe]

In this schematic its easy. Take the red leads coming in and out of the thermostat and wire tie them together. Now your external temp controller can do its thing.Im not sure what a mini unit is exactly. But it looks similar to mine. You can seal around the unit using AL tape. I actually stuffed insulation around mine then the tape. Make the hole as tight as you can get it. Dont use the louvers.Im not saying this last unit will work, but its analog and you are on the right track for sure.

Edited by BlKtRe, 09 March 2011 - 04:10 PM.

[djinkc]

I'll agree with blktre. Analog is a lot easier to adapt for what we want. If there is some light leakage you can take care of that while the unit is apart to bypass the thermostat. Odds are it's the same as mine with a different label on it. Mine's only 5000 BTU, I think...It will take a learning curve and probably ice up on you a time or two. Mine's been trouble free for at least 2 -3 years now. Well worth it.

[BlKtRe]

It will take a learning curve and probably ice up on you a time or two. Mine's been trouble free for at least 2 -3 years now. Well worth it.

Oh yeah. There is a big learning curve. When we get to this point with load, condensation, etc. we will help you through it.

[gnef]

Well, I bought one of the analog ones, took it apart, and rewired it to bypass the thermostat entirely. It was very simple, as all the wiring was done with those blade style connectors (I forgot what they are called), so I just removed the thermostat from the circuit so it would turn on to whatever setting I had the knob at when it had electricity. I quickly tested it out in the living room to see how well it would cool, and within a couple minutes it could work nearly a 30F differential from the incoming air to the chilled air. I have high hopes for this! I bought a second unit already too, and it is on its way.I should have my electrician friend by this coming weekend to wire up all the extra breakers (I am planning on putting in a total of 6 new breakers to wire up the rest of the garage while I am at this, 3 will be for the walk-in cooler).I do have a question though - how did all of you mount your air conditioner unit so that it was held securely in the framing? I am a bit concerned because I don't believe I can use the given hardward since it was designed for a thin window, and I will be framing it out with 2x6 lumber. It has a filter, and I want to make sure the air conditioner doesn't sit too far into the wall that I can't access the filter, but I also don't want it too far into the cooler so that the framing blocks some of the venting for the compressor and exhaust air.I have also recieved my love controllers (TS-2 models), and the probes are on their way to me as well, I bought the stainless capped probes for this project. Once they come in, I will do a quick test run to make sure things are working and programmed as I like.What are your thoughts about programming a defrost cycle into the regular use of the controller? Would this be sufficient enough to prevent icing up of the unit?The fluorescent light fixtures I've looked at are rated to below freezing, so I'm not that concerned over those.I am thinking of putting all the outlets and switches mounted on to the interior walls, rather than integrated and flush with the wall. I am thinking that this will help maintain the moisture barrier and the R index of the cooler. So I will only have a single spot where the wires will penetrate from outside the chamber to inside the chamber, and everything will be routed and piped inside the chamber. Thoughts?

[BlKtRe]

I do have a question though - how did all of you mount your air conditioner unit so that it was held securely in the framing? I am a bit concerned because I don't believe I can use the given hardward since it was designed for a thin window, and I will be framing it out with 2x6 lumber.

I framed the wall to accept the outside OD of the unit. Made a box square with 2x6. I also made a shelf out of plywood to sit the unit on. The inside of the unit is flush to the interior. You may have to build some support pieces on the outside to help hold up the unit since it hangs out from the exterior. Then stuff insulation, caulking, and AL tape to seal around the edge. I built the structure tight as I could to reduce the size of cracks.

I bought the stainless capped probes for this project. Once they come in, I will do a quick test run to make sure things are working and programmed as I like.

I used WL tubes full of cold pak gel and put my sensor in that. The gel works well because it doesn't cycle quickly like you are monitoring ambient, but cycles sooner vs monitoring a larger volume like a batch of beer. The Love controllers have some settings you will want to play with, like defrost or cycle times regardless what the set point is. Very important you play with the settings. This is the learning curve we were talking about.Everything else seems like a solid plan.

Edited by BlKtRe, 13 March 2011 - 07:33 PM.

[gnef]

Thanks for the reply!Framing it out with an exterior support sounds like what I will want to do, and I will probably strap it to the support in some fashion just to make sure it won't fall out.I do plan on using the WL tube and cold pak gel for both chambers now that I am using a unit for each side.Blktre - what did you use for your flooring? I want something cheap, but can handle spills, so I need to put something on top of the plywood. I do have about 90 square feet of tile that I could install, but I am not a fan of laying down tile and cutting tile if I needed to.

[BlKtRe]

Blktre - what did you use for your flooring? I want something cheap, but can handle spills, so I need to put something on top of the plywood. I do have about 90 square feet of tile that I could install, but I am not a fan of laying down tile and cutting tile if I needed to.

I put down foam insulation below the OSB/Plywood. Then covered that with the vinyl plastic sheets you find on restaurant walls. Caulked all the edges and corners.

[HVB]

I put down foam insulation below the OSB/Plywood. Then covered that with the vinyl plastic sheets you find on restaurant walls. Caulked all the edges and corners.

Mine is like that too except for the vinyl plastic, still have to get to that step. I have some left over "peel and place" 12x12 floor tiles that I may throw down on there.

[BlKtRe]

Mine is like that too except for the vinyl plastic, still have to get to that step. I have some left over "peel and place" 12x12 floor tiles that I may throw down on there.

I think its important. Ive had some leaky kegs and the plastic made it nice to clean up.

[gnef]

I think I will probably just use the same polywall material I plan on using for the walls then.I had my electrician friend come by, and we started the electrical work, and will finish on Wednesday. I am putting in 6 new 20 amp breakers in total. The 3 circuits (one for each of the air conditioners, and one for the interior lighting and interior outlets) for the walk-in is going to be the easier part since it will be so close to the breaker box. Adding the other three circuits for the rest of the garage is what is taking time since I am drilling through the joists to make a route for the wires. I do expect to be done with this part of the electrical work by Wednesday night.Once I have the framing in, then I will start the second stage of the electrical work which will be inside the walk-in for lighting, outlets, switches, and the air conditioners.We should be getting the truck within the next couple weeks, and then I can really get started with construction. I still need to tear down the wall though.At least I am making some progress! Haha.

[gnef]

Well, all the circuits are in and working. I have moved the kegs from the storage room, and I have demolished the separating wall. It will take two trash pickup days to get rid of all the material.Once I get all of the wall thrown out, I plan on ripping up the carpet that is there, and the space should be ready for some construction.I also took the opportunity to get some new cordless 18v li-ion makitas, a drill driver and impact driver set.The electrical was a bit more expensive than I had anticipated, but I am glad I did it. The electrical just for the walk-in cooler was pretty cheap, but running the other three circuits for the rest of the garage was time consuming and cost a good bit, mostly in wire and gfci outlets. At least I have power all around the garage/basement now though. Plus I have gained some skills working with electricity now.I am still waiting to get the truck, but we should hopefully be getting it for real by the end of this month as long as there aren't any more delays.

[gnef]

Work on this project has been slow going. We still don't have the truck yet...I ripped up the carpet, and have been working slowly on scraping up the glue that was used with the carpet on the slab.The sister in law has moved out, so now I need to move her boxes into the attic and donate to goodwill what she doesn't want to keep, but that should clear up the space needed for the walk-in cooler.

[gnef]

Well, got the truck less than a week ago, and we are starting construction tomorrow!I just bought a LOT of material, mostly just for framing it out and finishing the floor.Here is what I remember:66 2x6x8 pressure treated8 2x6x16 pressure treated16 3/4'' 4'x8' OSB8 1/2'' R-3 rigid foam board insulation3 rolls of R-19 48 sq ft insulationFoil tapetwo sill insulation rollsnails6 mil poly sheetingHopefully things will go well tomorrow, and we can get the floor finished entirely, and all four walls. I'm not sure if we will be able to do the roof, but it would be awesome if we could finish that framing as well.Once the framing is in, I will need to figure out the electrical for everything, and make sure I have wire routed where I need before I insulate the walls and don't have access to them.I hope I also don't go overbudget... Haha. We'll see.Any suggestions on mounting the love controllers?

[BlKtRe]

two sill insulation rolls

Good call. Not sure if it was discussed, but I put this under my base plates too.

[gnef]

We actually got too caught up in getting other things taken care of, that we didn't use the sill plate insulation. Ah well.14x7x7 wall of pressure treated 2x6 lumber sheathed in 3/4'' OSB board is really heavy.We were able to get all the basic framing done except for the ceiling, and sheathed two of the four walls today. I am exquisitely happy with the progress made today with the help of many friends, especially one that knew what he was doing. Haha.I will be able to finish the insulation by myself, but will need help figuring out the electrical wiring and location of everything, as well as framing the ceiling joists. Hopefully this won't take too much longer, and will have an operational walk-in cooler soon enough!

[gnef]

Here is the starting material - almost all the framing, all the sheathing, insulation for the flooring, and other smaller piecesHere is where the walk-in cooler is going to be:Here is the foam insulation going down first on top of the slab. The floor will be built on top of this. This will help to prevent any moisture from wicking up from the concrete or spilled on the floor.Here is the floor framing assembled:

[gnef]

Here is the flooring after the insulation, vapor barrier and 3/4 OSB has been attached.This is the framing for one of the side walls.Framing completed for the side wall, and the floor is primed.You can see the far wall is framed and sheathed.The side wall is also sheathed and in place.The framing for the other side wall.The framing for the end wall, with a door opening for the fermentation side.

[BlKtRe]

Nice.Question. How and where do you plan to hang your plastic for a condensation barrier?On the way, built solid!

[gnef]

I only plan on doing more plastic sheeting for the ceiling at this point.The reason for this, is I talked with an architect friend about my original plan to do the plastic sheeting for the walls and then the rigid foam insulation, and he basically said to never put a vapor barrier in between insulation, even if it is rigid foam insulation.So I figure at this point, I am just going to use the rigid foam insulation, two layers offset from each other, and seal up the insulation the best I can to act as a moisture barrier - I will be using the foil tape and caulk where needed.I have also been thinking about how to finish the flooring. I am still pretty sure I will use the polywall because it is cheaper and that is what I plan on putting on top of the rigid foam insulation for the walls, but a friend brought up a good option - garage floor epoxy paint. Only thing is the cheapest decent kit I could find was still around $90, but if I do it right, that could seal up the floor and the wall joints and corners along the floor, which would be great.Ideas?