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Yet another Munich Dunkel thread...


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#41 positiveContact

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 06:54 AM

I think it could come out really great.  If you had used it at 74% like I used light it might have been overpowering.



#42 HVB

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:00 AM

I think it could come out really great.  If you had used it at 74% like I used light it might have been overpowering.

Fingers crossed.  I think for my tastes you are right that 74% would have been a bit too much.



#43 Big Nake

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:15 AM

I also used Dark Munich. My "light munich" shows an L number of 6-8 and my dark shows 9-12. Generally I use the light stuff in more pale beers and dark stuff in darker beers.

#44 HVB

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:22 AM

I also used Dark Munich. My "light munich" shows an L number of 6-8 and my dark shows 9-12. Generally I use the light stuff in more pale beers and dark stuff in darker beers.

my regular is also 6-8.  I was a bit surprised today to see the dark is just 9-10.



#45 Steve Urquell

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:27 AM

my regular is also 6-8.  I was a bit surprised today to see the dark is just 9-10.


Breiss has a 20L dark munich. I think this messes with people when they start looking at dark munich lovibonds.

Edited by chils, 22 January 2016 - 07:27 AM.


#46 HVB

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:37 AM

Breiss has a 20L dark munich. I think this messes with people when they start looking at dark munich lovibonds.

could be. Is that the one Denny said is more crystal like that Munich?



#47 positiveContact

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:47 AM

my regular is also 6-8.  I was a bit surprised today to see the dark is just 9-10.

 

I feel like I can really tell when I use dark munich so I'm surprised as well.  I think last time I used it it was weyermann.



#48 Steve Urquell

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:48 AM

could be. Is that the one Denny said is more crystal like that Munich?

Not sure. I don't use anything domestic when brewing European lagers. I don't even like Briess for domestic beer styles.

#49 HVB

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:54 AM

Not sure. I don't use anything domestic when brewing European lagers. I don't even like Briess for domestic beer styles.

I was wrong it was Gambrinus 20



#50 Steve Urquell

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 07:58 AM

I was wrong it was Gambrinus 20

I kinda figured it'd be similar tasting to biscuit, aromatic, or melanoidin malt. A little too toasty for a majority of the grist.

#51 Big Nake

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 08:13 AM

Agreed... Euro beers require Euro ingredients, IMO. Denny said that Gambrinus 20 was more of a specialty malt as opposed to something you might be able to use as a majority of the base malt.

#52 Steve Urquell

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 08:19 AM

Agreed... Euro beers require Euro ingredients, IMO.

+1. I brewed many batches of Svetly using domestic malt/being a tightwad that just didn't taste right until I bought some quality EU malt.

#53 positiveContact

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:11 PM

anyone tried CMC Pils in a german style beer?  I'd be curious how that stands up.



#54 HVB

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:13 PM

anyone tried CMC Pils in a german style beer?  I'd be curious how that stands up.

Not yet but I do have a few bags of it.



#55 positiveContact

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:22 PM

Not yet but I do have a few bags of it.

 

I assume you bought it mainly for APA purposes?  it seems like it would probably be perfect for those beers.



#56 HVB

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:31 PM

I assume you bought it mainly for APA purposes?  it seems like it would probably be perfect for those beers.

You know my basic grain bill well!



#57 Big Nake

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 01:40 PM

I will get American 2-row for American beers. Malteurop, CMC, Rahr Pale Ale Malt, etc. I have also found that Rahr Pale Ale malt is deep and rich enough for English styles too. But for most of my lagers, it's German Pils (Best, Durst, Avangard, Weyermann) and German Munich and Vienna. I have not picked up domestic pilsner in years. I will buy American specialty grains that are "standard" things like C40, C60, etc. But I buy British Crystal and I think that anything called CARA-[something] is a Weyermann product and I buy a lot of that too... CaraAroma, CaraBohemian, CaraMunich, CaraSchputz, CaraDingle and so on.

I think the one issue I had with MLPA recently was that I was using Rahr Pale Ale malt in that beer where I would normally use a standard domestic 2-row and it was making the beer a little deeper than usual. Now I'm back using MaltEurop and I also lightened the recipe (less crystal, slightly more hops, a bit more gypsum) and that's moving the beer too far in the other direction. So I should maybe go back to the 1 pound of C60 and maybe leave the hops and water the same.

#58 neddles

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 03:08 PM

I will get American 2-row for American beers. Malteurop, CMC, Rahr Pale Ale Malt, etc. I have also found that Rahr Pale Ale malt is deep and rich enough for English styles too. But for most of my lagers, it's German Pils (Best, Durst, Avangard, Weyermann) and German Munich and Vienna. I have not picked up domestic pilsner in years. I will buy American specialty grains that are "standard" things like C40, C60, etc. But I buy British Crystal and I think that anything called CARA-[something] is a Weyermann product and I buy a lot of that too... CaraAroma, CaraBohemian, CaraMunich, CaraSchputz, CaraDingle and so on.

I think the one issue I had with MLPA recently was that I was using Rahr Pale Ale malt in that beer where I would normally use a standard domestic 2-row and it was making the beer a little deeper than usual. Now I'm back using MaltEurop and I also lightened the recipe (less crystal, slightly more hops, a bit more gypsum) and that's moving the beer too far in the other direction. So I should maybe go back to the 1 pound of C60 and maybe leave the hops and water the same.

Agree on Rahr Pale Ale. It is not a replacement for GP or MO but it is its own animal and does work nicely in those styles.



#59 Big Nake

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Posted 22 January 2016 - 08:40 PM

Agree on Rahr Pale Ale. It is not a replacement for GP or MO but it is its own animal and does work nicely in those styles.

Right, not a replacement for sure. But I would not hesitate to use it with some Thomas Fawcett crystal, some torrified wheat, some EKG and some good liquid English yeast like 1469, 1968, 1028, etc. The Rahr Pal Ale malt has a bit more color and oomph to it.

#60 neddles

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Posted 29 February 2016 - 10:42 AM

Posting this pic here so it's along with the recipe. This beer turned out fantastic and I plan to make another batch of it but with the Augustiner yeast (Wyeast 2352... a private strain) and I don't think I would change a thing. If I tap a glass of this and hold it up to the light, it's unreal how clear it is and how much RED you get with the Weyermann Carafa Special III. Also... the amount of Munich was mentioned earlier in this thread and what happened here is exactly what I was hoping: Good balance. The fact that I cut the Munich with pilsner, mashed a little lower and used some gypsum in the mash equates to a very good balance in this beer where there is good body and mouthfeel but a slightly crisp finish which brings it all together.

Ken, did you ever make this again with the 2352? Do you still have 2352 up and running? I pulled my smack pack of it out to build it up I think I am going to make a Helles with it. Thoughts on 2352 or using it in a Helles?




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