Which perf stock for a stainless false bottom?
#21
Posted 11 August 2009 - 04:59 PM
#22
Posted 12 August 2009 - 04:44 AM
#23
Posted 12 August 2009 - 04:53 AM
For some reason this looks pretty filthy
#24
Posted 12 August 2009 - 05:41 AM
Too put your unfounded fears to bed. I leave the handles the rim is the only thing removed and top cap. Years and Years of use and no stress or crackingMaybe this is little cleaner looking and lighter for your taste zymological Dominus VobiscumSwagmanSwagman,for a stationary setup, I can see cutting it all off. But if you tear down and stow gear after every brew session, leaving the handles on is pretty important. I'm guessing cutting through the handle and lip would localize stress that could lead to cracking in that area.
Edited by SWAGMAN, 12 August 2009 - 05:47 AM.
#25
Posted 12 August 2009 - 05:57 AM
#26
Posted 12 August 2009 - 02:42 PM
I think it's the hop/break splatter on the hose that looks kind of gross. I know it's all good thoughAh - I'll have to look at these pics when I get home - I think photobucket is blocked at work...
#27
Posted 12 August 2009 - 08:26 PM
How did you do that?Too put your unfounded fears to bed. I leave the handles the rim is the only thing removed and top cap. Years and Years of use and no stress or crackingDominus VobiscumSwagman
#28
Posted 13 August 2009 - 05:11 AM
Actually, I was referring to this:Leaving the roll and lip intact would render it less flexible than the area with the slice through it.Hence localizing all stress and bending at the gap area.But that's just my nutty ME side.For HB applications it probably works just fine.Too put your unfounded fears to bed. I leave the handles the rim is the only thing removed and top cap. Years and Years of use and no stress or cracking ...Swagman
#29
Posted 13 August 2009 - 07:11 AM
I see what you're saying, but I think you hit it on the head. The thickness of the keg itself is enough to prevent any bending, except in extreme situations, which generally aren't encountered in homebrewing (unless highly intoxicated).Actually, I was referring to this:Leaving the roll and lip intact would render it less flexible than the area with the slice through it.Hence localizing all stress and bending at the gap area.But that's just my nutty ME side.For HB applications it probably works just fine.
#30
Posted 13 August 2009 - 10:00 AM
#31
Posted 13 August 2009 - 11:10 AM
How do you support it?I use stainless steel screening for my false bottom. Easy to work with because it is nice and flexible (relatively speaking).Then again, it was given to me. The best stuff is always free.
#32
Posted 13 August 2009 - 01:51 PM
I think your should take your 24 inch pipe wrench and try to do a little bending on a keg. These keg have drop on the bottom edge from here to LA and yes after a several drops of about 129 lb on there bottom rim there is little bending. Also you wouldn't believe the amount of kinetic energy stored in one of the top rings. Just take a top ring off a keg and than cut it into, you better have it clamped in a vise good and tight. I have seen them jump out of a vise and slide clear across the shed. The top part and inside dome on a keg are all welded at the same time. The stainless used will hold up to any abuse a home brewer will dish out except C4, armor piercing rounds. But is what fits you cap and what you want.Dominus VobiscumSwagmanI see what you're saying, but I think you hit it on the head. The thickness of the keg itself is enough to prevent any bending, except in extreme situations, which generally aren't encountered in homebrewing (unless highly intoxicated).
#33
Posted 14 August 2009 - 05:01 AM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users