32 replies to this topic

[3rd party JKor]

Anyone know what size hole and center-to-center spacing that the commercial suppliers are using for their false bottoms?

[tag]

I believe SABCO's is 3/32" on 5/32 centers.

[3rd party JKor]

I believe SABCO's is 3/32" on 5/32 centers.

OK, thanks. $90 for a false bottom is ridiculous. I just put in an RFQ from a perf metal supplier. I'm interested to see what they come back with.

[stellarbrew]

OK, thanks. $90 for a false bottom is ridiculous. I just put in an RFQ from a perf metal supplier. I'm interested to see what they come back with.

Yeah, my suspicion is that the $90 price has a substantial profit margin built into it. I'm also interested to see what they come back with.

[CaptRon]

Add me to the list, I could use another FB or two.

[3rd party JKor]

Well, if I buy a sheet of perf stock I'll be selling false bottoms for cheap, so if anyone needs one....

[NWPines]

I agree that $90 for a false bottom is steep, but I will say that the design of the Sabco product works extremely well. I was fortunate enough to get one a few years ago for a great price. The main piece of advice I have is to make one that is full-size and covers the entire width of your keg. In my opinion, the smaller flimsier ones like This are simply not adequate.FWIW, I usually fly sparge and have a Wit that is 48% flaked wheat and 10% flaked oats, I don't use rice hulls and have never even come close to having a stuck sparge.By the way, the Sabco FB is made of 16 gauge stainless, is 15" in diameter and the holes are 3/32" diameter on 5/32" centers.

[djinkc]

PM Swagman if he doesn't chime in. He's made quite a few of them.

[tag]

You can make 4-5 from this sheet. https://www.mcmaster...358t311/=337eudAnd I'll take one. It doesn't need to be hinged for me.

[3rd party JKor]

I got a quote for a 4'x8' sheet of 16 ga. stainless with 3/32" holes on 5/32" centers (same as Sabco), including have the sheet cut down into 16" squares. Total per 16" square would be about $23. You'd have to cut it to round and weld some brackets on it, still a lot better than $90.Turns out the supplier's warehouse is less than 3 miles from where I work. I might have to swing by to see if the have any scraps laying around. Maybe I should check if they'll cut it to circles.

Edited by JKoravos, 07 August 2009 - 02:07 PM.

[tag]

I'll take 1 or 2!

[djinkc]

I bought this guy for my BK when I use whole hops. Not a bad price.

[HVB]

I got a quote for a 4'x8' sheet of 16 ga. stainless with 3/32" holes on 5/32" centers (same as Sabco), including have the sheet cut down into 16" squares. Total per 16" square would be about $23. You'd have to cut it to round and weld some brackets on it, still a lot better than $90.Turns out the supplier's warehouse is less than 3 miles from where I work. I might have to swing by to see if the have any scraps laying around. Maybe I should check if they'll cut it to circles.

If you do this let me know. I need a custom size for my hop back.

[3rd party JKor]

I've had a fab shop doing some water jet cutting for me at work. I might give them a call, see what they'd charge for cutting up a sheet of perf stock. If it's reasonable, maybe I'll do a little group buy.

[Stout_fan]

I'm thinking about doing Grant hopping. So, I'd be interested in a 16" square sheet.Actual size TBD later.

[SWAGMAN]

cut a few using a plasma and circle jig. I have used two different sizes one is 1/16 x 1/8 stagger 18 gage and the other is 3/32 x 5/32 16 gage. With the keg bottom shaped as it is the dia will vary a bit from keg to keg but stay around the 15 inch dia. I dress them down on the belt sander to fit. I don't use feet as such but do use three 10-32 bolts set 120 degrees apart with a silver solder nut top and bottom. Just takes up less open area than the flat strap feet. I have use the lighter metal for years with no problems brewing five and ten gallon batch's with no feet. But a couple of brewers using systems I built with lighter metal ran into a law of physics that I can't explain but while brewing ten gallon large grain bill they occurred a problem with out side edge in one place the bent upward. About inch and a half across and about two inch wide upward bend. That why I started adding the three bolts and also trying the heavier metal. They have had no problems since the feet where added. I believe that the pressure force the false bottom down in the center the outside edge is setting on the concaved edge and that caused the metal to buckle up. Exactly why this old farm boy don't have a clue. JKoravos price is very good deal and fab shop or weld shop that has a plasma and circle cutter should not charge that much. Heck if your close to me stop by the shed and your can use mine free of charge. (but it would be nice to bring a cold one or two). If JKoravos gets them cut into circles you will be ahead of the game better ship him a few good ones along with the cash of course lol.Hope this helps and not confuse the issue.Dominus VobiscumSwagman

[tag]

Has anyone tried the "slotted' perforated metal?

[zymot]

I made a false bottom like thing for an apple cider press I am creating.I used a sheet of 4 x 4 mesh, about 20 gauge. Cut to size, easy to do with wire cutters. This is to give it some support and strength. On top of that I laid a matching hunk of 16 X 16 mesh to act as the filter. Not sure all your are trying to do, but I made a 18" X 12" false bottom for about $10.00 plus the frame, which you will have to make.Something to consider.zymot

[CaptRon]

cut a few using a plasma and circle jig. I have used two different sizes one is 1/16 x 1/8 stagger 18 gage and the other is 3/32 x 5/32 16 gage. With the keg bottom shaped as it is the dia will vary a bit from keg to keg but stay around the 15 inch dia. I dress them down on the belt sander to fit. I don't use feet as such but do use three 10-32 bolts set 120 degrees apart with a silver solder nut top and bottom. Just takes up less open area than the flat strap feet. I have use the lighter metal for years with no problems brewing five and ten gallon batch's with no feet. But a couple of brewers using systems I built with lighter metal ran into a law of physics that I can't explain but while brewing ten gallon large grain bill they occurred a problem with out side edge in one place the bent upward. About inch and a half across and about two inch wide upward bend. That why I started adding the three bolts and also trying the heavier metal. They have had no problems since the feet where added. I believe that the pressure force the false bottom down in the center the outside edge is setting on the concaved edge and that caused the metal to buckle up. Exactly why this old farm boy don't have a clue. JKoravos price is very good deal and fab shop or weld shop that has a plasma and circle cutter should not charge that much. Heck if your close to me stop by the shed and your can use mine free of charge. (but it would be nice to bring a cold one or two). If JKoravos gets them cut into circles you will be ahead of the game better ship him a few good ones along with the cash of course lol.Hope this helps and not confuse the issue.Dominus VobiscumSwagman

If JKoravos gets these cut into the circle that would fit my SABCO, he's definitely gettin a few from me. Heck I might even add him as a friend here on the BB. lolWould still need the hinge to get it in to the SABCO kettle right?

Edited by badogg, 11 August 2009 - 09:24 AM.

[tag]

If JKoravos gets these cut into the circle that would fit my SABCO, he's definitely gettin a few from me. Heck I might even add him as a friend here on the BB. lolWould still need the hinge to get it in to the SABCO kettle right?

There are a couple of other ways to get a FB in. One way is to cut slits in the top to slide it in through. Another way is to make 2 halves that are larger than 8". They will fit through the top and support each other in the tun.