Braid vs Manifold
#1
Posted 08 May 2012 - 09:58 PM
#2
Posted 08 May 2012 - 10:10 PM
#3
Posted 08 May 2012 - 10:17 PM
I did not mention that, sorry. For my question I am only interested in batch sparging.if you are batch sparging either one is fine, if you are fly sparging a braid will channel and reduce efficiency
#4
Posted 08 May 2012 - 10:30 PM
since switching to batch sparging 5 years ago I have used a braid, and have no formal experience with manifolds, the braid has been more than sufficient for meI did not mention that, sorry. For my question I am only interested in batch sparging.
#5
Posted 09 May 2012 - 04:32 AM
#6
Posted 09 May 2012 - 04:42 AM
#7
Posted 09 May 2012 - 05:21 AM
I don't think it would be wise to fly sparge with a braid for that very reason. My understanding is that most homebrewers that have a braid only batch sparge. I would question their knowledge. If you were only planning on batch sparging, I would stick with the braid. If you thought you wanted to fly sparge at some point, build the manifold... the manifold will handle both batch and fly.After a brewing hiatus I am back to brewing. I used to AG brew but only had about 8 batches in before I had to quit. I kept everything except my mash tun and have been extract brewing. Well I hate extract brewing and am rebuilding my mashtun. My last setup was basically the Dennycon setup with a bazooka screen. This evening after talking to some homebrewers they were trying to sell the manifold system over a braid because "there was less channeling than with a braid". I didn't get enough batches under my belt with good notes to see if this was a problem for me. Do you guys have any advise for braids vs a manifold?
#9
Posted 09 May 2012 - 05:28 AM
#10
Posted 09 May 2012 - 05:33 AM
I had to read that sentence a dozen times and it still doesn't make sense to me. If you had stopped the sentence after the word "manifold", I would have agreed with you. But the rest makes no sense. Please explain what you mean and I may be able to have a better response. I don't want to presume to know what you mean before responding.The only reason to build a manifold is if you ever want to fly sparge or move to a RIMS or do anything crazy like that to geek out your brewery. In which case you will probably need a different mash tun anyway, so I still say stick with the braid. The whole point in a batch sparge is that you sparge with a set amount of water and stir it up good to dissolve the sugars and then drain. You aren't gaining any efficiency by having a manifold because the water is probably at its solubility level when you are draining the tun. That being said, I have a manifold and I like it, but that is personal preference over anything.Cheers,Rich
#11
Posted 09 May 2012 - 05:44 AM
Why would a RIMS have anything to do with it?The only reason to build a manifold is if you ever want to fly sparge or move to a RIMS or do anything crazy like that to geek out your brewery. I
#12
Posted 09 May 2012 - 05:44 AM
#13
Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:14 AM
#14
Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:17 AM
I noticed that the top of your copper has slits. I am used to seeing slits only on the bottom.Intuitively, I would think that too many slits would make draining less efficient. In other words, slits on top and bottom results in the copper not being real tubes, so wort wouldn't run out.I am sure that I am wrong about this, but would love to have your thoughts on this. If this works, I am going today to make exactly the same TUN.I did a manifold. The details are in this blog post.
#15
Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:17 AM
I have a cpvc manifold too. When I batch sparged, I got 80% efficiency. When I fly sparge, I get 75% to 78% efficiency. IMHO, the difference is negligible and I can focus on other things when the sparge is taking place.I got tired of my braid occasionally collapsing, or it floating up into the mash and not staying at the bottom of the tun.. I made a cheap cpvc manifold and life is grand. Ill never go back.
#16
Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:19 AM
Don't be fooled by the pics. When he installed it in the tun, the slits were (or they damn well had better be) facing downwards. Most brewers take pictures with the slits face up to show their nice handi-work. Otherwise, the picture would just look like a bunch of copper pieced together real nice.I noticed that the top of your copper has slits. I am used to seeing slits only on the bottom.Intuitively, I would think that too many slits would make draining less efficient. In other words, slits on top and bottom results in the copper not being real tubes, so wort wouldn't run out.I am sure that I am wrong about this, but would love to have your thoughts on this. If this works, I am going today to make exactly the same TUN.
#17
Posted 09 May 2012 - 06:27 AM
I was wondering cause I saw somewhere someone had put slits both on top and on the bottom which doesn't make sense to me.Don't be fooled by the pics. When he installed it in the tun, the slits were (or they damn well had better be) facing downwards. Most brewers take pictures with the slits face up to show their nice handi-work. Otherwise, the picture would just look like a bunch of copper pieced together real nice.
#18
Posted 09 May 2012 - 07:33 AM
for batch sparging it wouldI was wondering cause I saw somewhere someone had put slits both on top and on the bottom which doesn't make sense to me.
#19
Posted 09 May 2012 - 07:40 AM
Which is what I'm going to be doing at first. So I should be the slits both on top and on the bottom?for batch sparging it would
#20
Posted 09 May 2012 - 07:46 AM
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