236 replies to this topic

[BlKtRe]

Go for it. Cheap volume.

[al_bob]

Go for it. Cheap volume.

That's what I'm thinking, plus my other mash tun is a 1000 miles away. There is that.

Edited by al_bob, 18 April 2012 - 10:43 AM.

[MtnBrewer]

I just went and looked at the one at Academy and it still has the small hump, but it does seem smaller than in the past.

Oops, sorry for the misinformation.

I think I had channeling issues using my Igloo Cooler 10gal, with a single bazooka screen. I can't see how this would be worse when I would likely use a copper manifold that would cover much more area than my single bazooka.

I can easily see how you'd have channeling problems with a Bazooka. A manifold or longer braid would take care of that I'm pretty sure. I think the problem with the hump is that the leg of the manifold that drains that side will be draining more mash than the others. Hard to describe without a picture but the hump basically forces the manifold to be off-center with respect to the part of the tun above the hump. So what you might do is put the leg right up against the hump but the opposite leg should be in from the cooler wall like you normally would.

[al_bob]

It's actually in an okay place I think. The drain is about 2 inches above the floor, midway up the angled hump, and right in the middle of that side of the cooler. I would have to put some legs on the opposite side of the manifold, and it might leave some wort behind, but not much.I would do a rectangular manifold with a middle tube, too, like Brewman is doing, kinda.

Edited by al_bob, 18 April 2012 - 05:00 PM.

[Brauer]

I think I had channeling issues using my Igloo Cooler 10gal, with a single bazooka screen. I can't see how this would be worse when I would likely use a copper manifold that would cover much more area than my single bazooka.

You can remove any need to worry about channeling by batch sparging.

Edited by Brauer, 18 April 2012 - 06:00 PM.

[BlKtRe]

You can remove any need to worry about channeling by batch sparging.

Or you can build a manifold which doesn't take rocket science to make and have the option to batch or fly. Fwiw, I've converted many a batch sparger to fly once they saw how easy it is. But what really converted them is they found out that during the sparge they could do other brew day things rather than move a bunch of sparge water around.

[HVB]

But what really converted them is they found out that during the sparge they could do other brew day things rather than move a bunch of sparge water around.

It does not take much work to open the pump valve...

[al_bob]

Or you can build a manifold which doesn't take rocket science to make and have the option to batch or fly.Fwiw, I've converted many a batch sparger to fly once they saw how easy it is. But what really converted them is they found out that during the sparge they could do other brew day things rather than move a bunch of sparge water around.

First key to all that is having the volume to do a batch sparge. And, somehow that doesn't make logical sense. How does batch sparging eliminate channeling vs. fly sparging? The mash tun is always full with a couple of inches above the grains in fly sparging, what would be different in batch sparging to prevent channeling?

[BlKtRe]

It does not take much work to open the pump valve...

That's why I fly.

[BlKtRe]

Batch you are flooding the mash with hot water and.running it out fairly quickly taking all the sugars with it. Fly is a slower induction of water and a slower exit of sugars. A fly sparge may take longer to do than a batch but where I catch up is my fire is lit at the onset of wort in the kettle so I'm boiling at the end of the sparge

[HVB]

Batch you are flooding the mash with hot water and.running it out fairly quickly taking all the sugars with it. Fly is a slower induction of water and a slower exit of sugars. A fly sparge may take longer to do than a batch but where I catch up is my fire is lit at the onset of wort in the kettle so I'm boiling at the end of the sparge

I start the boil once the wort is over the element. Usually about 2.5 gallons. Usually takes about 10 minutes after the sparge ( batch) is done to start boiling. ne of these days I will give fly a try.

[brewman]

Now that you guys have jacked my thread it's time to get back to business.Here is my manifold. First pic is the parts, second and third are two different ways to put them together depending on which way fits better in the cooler which should be here tomorrow or Friday.Now back to the jacking.Dan

[Brauer]

And, somehow that doesn't make logical sense. How does batch sparging eliminate channeling vs. fly sparging? The mash tun is always full with a couple of inches above the grains in fly sparging, what would be different in batch sparging to prevent channeling?

Batch sparging isn't affected by channeling because you are never running plain water through grain, which is why fly sparging increases the risk of excessive tannin extraction. The serial dilution nature of batch sparging makes the gravity of the wort constant throughout the draining process, so it doesn't matter what path it takes leaving the tun, while channeling during a fly sparge results in overly dilute wort running past the grain near the exit point.

[BlKtRe]

Batch sparging isn't affected by channeling because you are never running plain water through grain, which is why fly sparging increases the risk of excessive tannin extraction. The serial dilution nature of batch sparging makes the gravity of the wort constant throughout the draining process, so it doesn't matter what path it takes leaving the tun, while channeling during a fly sparge results in overly dilute wort running past the grain near the exit point.

Once you know your system and efficiency you will reduce any chance of pulling tannin at the end of a fly sparge. I used to be overly cautious and check as the sugars reduced. Guess what? I've always had at or over my prevoil volume and have leave plenty in the tun. I think this pulling tannin from over sparging is something that is talked about more than the actual risk. Todays malt is more modified than yesteryears malt where it was more of a concern back then.

[BlKtRe]

Nice manifold Dan. You going to cut some slots in that bad boy?

[Genesee Ted]

I do an improvised fly sparge in that I do not have a sparge arm. I manually add the sparge water a bit at a time. I was batch sparging for years before, but I always felt like I had to re-vorlauf after I put the sparge water in and mixed everything up. I have not suffered any efficiency loss since switching and I save time.

[al_bob]

Nice job Dan. that's pretty much what I plan on doing if I buy this new cooler.

[brewman]

Nice manifold Dan. You going to cut some slots in that bad boy?

Nope, I'm planning on applying a charge to the mash tun so the wort will achieve tunnel barriering and magically pass through the copper.Dan

[Deerslyr]

Nope, I'm planning on applying a charge to the mash tun so the wort will achieve tunnel barriering and magically pass through the copper.Dan

Just remember... slots go on the bottom. Have fun cutting! (was a PITA even on cpvc)

[denny]

I think it has to do with the geometry of the tun vs. the manifold. Potential for channeling or decreased efficiency I believe. I am sure someone else could chime in.

Channeling is only an issue for fly sparging. If you batch sparge, channeling doesn't happen. Fly sparging is a rinsing process, where batch sparging is a draining process.

Edited by denny, 19 April 2012 - 09:04 AM.