31 replies to this topic

[zymot]

As far as I know, Therminators use a combination of 1/2" NPT threads for the wort in/out and what ever a standard outdoor hose bib (garden hose) threads are for the cooling water in/out.McMaster Carr has all kinds of NPT threaded parts. You can make up a hose with a 1/2 NPT barb, some high temp hose and I would put a hose clamp on it for good measure.For garden hose thread, I have discovered the joy of quick disconnects. You can see some connections ideas here in Dean's double barrel plate chiller thread.https://www.brews-br...?showtopic=2760Hope this helps.zymot

[3rd party JKor]

As far as I know, Therminators use a combination of 1/2" NPT threads for the wort in/out and what ever a standard outdoor hose bib (garden hose) threads are for the cooling water in/out.McMaster Carr has all kinds of NPT threaded parts. You can make up a hose with a 1/2 NPT barb, some high temp hose and I would put a hose clamp on it for good measure.For garden hose thread, I have discovered the joy of quick disconnects. You can see some connections ideas here in Dean's double barrel plate chiller thread.https://www.brews-br...?showtopic=2760Hope this helps.zymot

I think the only problem with using a 1/2" NPT hose barb adapter is that it's a pain to get on and off. Thirsty has the right idea, I think. Use 1/2"NPT to QD adapter. Much easier to use than the Blichmann quick connector and you can use them throughout your system for easy hose coupling. It's been one of my best upgrades to my system. I have female QD on all my equipment, then I just made up a bunch of jumpers with male QDs. I can connect any two pieces of equipment in seconds.

[zymot]

I think the only problem with using a 1/2" NPT hose barb adapter is that it's a pain to get on and off. Thirsty has the right idea, I think. Use 1/2"NPT to QD adapter. Much easier to use than the Blichmann quick connector and you can use them throughout your system for easy hose coupling. It's been one of my best upgrades to my system. I have female QD on all my equipment, then I just made up a bunch of jumpers with male QDs. I can connect any two pieces of equipment in seconds.

Since budget was an important factor in OP, I offered the cheapest (not necessarily the best) way to get fluid in and out of his therminator.

[3rd party JKor]

Since budget was an important factor in OP, I offered the cheapest (not necessarily the best) way to get fluid in and out of his therminator.

OK, fair enough.

[chefmiller]

Thank you everyone for your help. Hopefully I can figure all of this information out. I'm sorry if I ruffled anyone's feathers a bit, sometimes I feel like a direct answer to a pointed question is difficult to get around here and I just get frustrated, (ie: what's cheaper than the blichmann connectors?, answer; " well, I bought a set of them....." )

[Dean Palmer]

I also use the hardware store garden hose quick connects for the chilling water. I use the more expensive but effective polysulfone quick connectors for the wort, and for backflushing I have one of the female polysulfone connects attached to a garden hose quick connect. All fast and easy, but maybe not the cheapest in the case of the wort-side of things.

[Thirsty]

You know Dean in looking at your setup here, wondering if you can make it even more efficient. The wort going into the second chiller is definitely much cooler, however the water going in can be excessively hot coming out of the first plate. I actually used to have a cheap garden hose for the "out" port of the water, and the heat burst the hose. It may cool some farther down the hose, but immediately leaving the plate may be quite hot from the exchange. I am wondering if you put a Y adapter onto your garden hose "in" and ran 2 pigtails to each water in port, then 2 pigtails out, allowing only cold water to enter the exchange? It sounds like this is already a fast exchanger, just trying to offer a possible tweak.

[3rd party JKor]

You know Dean in looking at your setup here, wondering if you can make it even more efficient. The wort going into the second chiller is definitely much cooler, however the water going in can be excessively hot coming out of the first plate. I actually used to have a cheap garden hose for the "out" port of the water, and the heat burst the hose. It may cool some farther down the hose, but immediately leaving the plate may be quite hot from the exchange. I am wondering if you put a Y adapter onto your garden hose "in" and ran 2 pigtails to each water in port, then 2 pigtails out, allowing only cold water to enter the exchange? It sounds like this is already a fast exchanger, just trying to offer a possible tweak.

Are you sure he's not doing that already? I can see the water inlet for the plate closest to the camera coming up at an angle, it looks as if he's feeding cold water in there. Although, I agree, if he isn't that would make the system more efficient.

[harryfrog]

Now that I look at Dean's setup I ask the same question as Thirsty. Couldn't you just slow your wort flow rate down and effectively do what Dean has with two chillers in series (unless of course you utilize Thirsty's modification mentioned)?should have read Dean's website:"The first one after the wort pump uses tap water to bring the wort down to ~80-90F, and the second is fed with ice water using the submersible pump to bring the wort down to pitching temps. "

[Thirsty]

Now that I look at Dean's setup I ask the same question as Thirsty. Couldn't you just slow your wort flow rate down and effectively do what Dean has with two chillers in series (unless of course you utilize Thirsty's modification mentioned)?should have read Dean's website:"The first one after the wort pump uses tap water to bring the wort down to ~80-90F, and the second is fed with ice water using the submersible pump to bring the wort down to pitching temps. "

AAHHHHH, Kickass.I didnt read his site, just saw that pic, that is one efficient chiller.

[Dean Palmer]

Yep, the first chiller only gets tap water, the second is fed by a submersible pump sitting in an ice water bath.The problem here in Florida is the high ground water temps, and after creating every configuration of every type of chiller possible, this ended up being the most kick-butt solution. It was expensive, but uses the least water, and the least ice that any chiller setup ever has, not to mention the final output temp of the wort can be regulated down to lager temps quickly and easily. Not the solution for everyone, but it truly solved the problem for Florida summer brewing.

[Dean Palmer]

Oh, and no, you can't slow the flow down with a single chiller to get the same performance in relation to time/water temp/ice used. With the summer tap water temp being 80+, you can rarely get the wort down under 100f in any reasonable time, and then when you switch over to the ice water pump, the amount of ice used becomes significant if recirculating as you are still working against the thermal mass of the kettle and burner that continues to transfer heat to the wort. Don't get me wrong, just having a plate chiller was sweet, but this was more of a way to see how chilling could be done the fastest and most efficient if cost was not a limitation.Using a good set of quick connects for the whole system makes swapping between kettles, pumps, and chillers very easy, and worth the extra $$ as well.