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Fermentation Chamber Build


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#41 brewman

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 04:48 PM

Got a lot done today. Now first let me say I'm no "Bob the Builder" and I think I've done really well. Ran into a few problems along the way but figured out fixes for them and pressed on. Have everything figured out for the most part. Just need to get more $$$ for the insulation and plastic sheathing.The base, The 2 x 6 in the back is to hold the compressor.Posted ImageThe frame all put together.Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImageDan

#42 brewman

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 04:54 PM

My first major problem was placement of the compressor and the back wall. I was hoping the compressor would fit on the 2 x 6 and still have room for the back but it wasn't so. The top is not attached, just sitting.Posted ImageI added the extra wood to the back uprights.Posted ImageAnd a foot for the compressor, It now sticks out more then the rest of the unit but thats a good thing, Now the unit will never be up against a wall and have no air to breath. Posted ImageCut out the back wall and the channel needed for the ac line.Posted ImageFilled for size comparisonPosted Image.Dan

#43 gnef

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Posted 21 January 2012 - 05:03 PM

Nice! Looking good. keep us updated!

#44 brewman

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Posted 23 January 2012 - 12:35 PM

Went to the DIY store to price out the rest of the stuff I need.Plastic sheathing $19 per sheetInsulating sheathing $13 per sheetWheels $3 eachStain $8 qt.Still need to figure out how many sheets of insulating ill need.Dan

#45 brewman

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 06:00 AM

Worked out a few details last night. One of them was what should I use for standoff's for the condenser and evaporator. I decided on using 3/4 inch wooden dowels. Pics to come. I also worked out the power distribution, fan placement, and controller placement.Picking up more supplies today and should have the bottom and wheels on tonight and hope to start insulating it tomorrow.Dan

#46 brewman

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 10:15 AM

Just picked up the wood for the bottom, wheels, wooden dowel for standoff's and hardware to mount the compressor. Will have all this together tonight and will take pics.Dan

#47 brewman

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Posted 24 January 2012 - 07:35 PM

Very productive night, I got the bottom put on, the wheels are on, the compressor is mounted along with the condenser. I also sealed every seam tonight. I also worked out a few issues I was wondering about.Tomorrow Ill start the power distribution and wiring.Here are some pics of what was done tonight.Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImagePosted ImageDan

Edited by brewman, 24 January 2012 - 07:36 PM.


#48 BlKtRe

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Posted 25 January 2012 - 09:50 AM

Looking great so far!

#49 brewman

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Posted 26 January 2012 - 05:26 AM

Didn't do much last night, just painted everything. The paint is basically just to protect the wood.Posted ImagePosted ImageDan

#50 brewman

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 10:28 AM

SCORE , I'm home this weekend and was cleaning out the shed this morning when I found a roll of this and two kits of gray epoxy paint. Its the type where you have to mix the hardener with the paint. I've used this stuff before for my john boat. If you mix it up and don't use it, the next day it will be a solid piece of gray rubber. I plan on putting a few coats on everything and then putting the reflectix insulation on the back to protect the wood from the heat of the condenser.Dan

#51 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 27 January 2012 - 10:33 AM

SCORE , I'm home this weekend and was cleaning out the shed this morning when I found a roll of this and two kits of gray epoxy paint. Its the type where you have to mix the hardener with the paint. I've used this stuff before for my john boat. If you mix it up and don't use it, the next day it will be a solid piece of gray rubber. I plan on putting a few coats on everything and then putting the reflectix insulation on the back to protect the wood from the heat of the condenser.Dan

That is the stuff i used. Once it cures it is hard as a rock. You can recoat up to 29 days after first application. After that you will have problems. On the plus side, you won't have to worry about wood rot!Cheers,Rich

#52 SchwanzBrewer

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Posted 31 January 2012 - 10:00 AM

Have you decided on the doors? I used standard door hinges. But as you could see, my doors are not flush with the outer layer of plywood. One problem I have is that the hinges need a shim in the orientation so that the door will shut flat. So if you intend on using standard hinges, shim them before you install them. Also, I need to install weather stripping and I will have to shim the doors for them to be able to shut, which also means longer screws. I just wanted to give you a heads up in case you were to this part of the build so you won't have the same pitfall that I have.Cheers,Rich

#53 brewman

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 05:31 AM

Ill be using these hinges.Posted Image

#54 brewman

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 05:38 AM

Always check the dates on the products you use. The silicone I used to seal the chamber expired Jan 11. I put it on last week and yesterday it was still wet. So last night I scraped it all off and cleaned up the areas where it was used. I reapplied new silicone last night and it was dry enough after a few hours to put a coat of epoxy paint on it.Tonight Ill put the second coat of paint.Dan

#55 BlKtRe

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 08:03 AM

I wonder if piano hinges would work? Seems like those would help seal the hinged portion of the door better.

#56 Buzz Buzzard

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Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:59 AM

I would image you want some sort of offset to account for the seal once the door becomes parallel with the face of the cabinet. The ones I remember seeing in the hardware sore were relatively narrow.

#57 brewman

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 06:45 AM

So last night I put a second coat of epoxy paint on the frame and floor (floor not attached yet). Took a pic and send it to the wife to show her the progress. She calls me and asked what type of wood on the outside. I told her I'm using 3/4 plywood that I got from work, not the nicest stuff but sturdy. She then says wouldn't it be better and easier if we spent some money and got some nice plywood that is smooth without knot holes and the like. Then then goes on to say that if this is going to be in my man room next to my bar and kegerator then it needs to look nice.Where did this women on the phone come from and what did she do with my wife. If she puts out I just may keep this one instead.Dan

#58 Buzz Buzzard

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Posted 02 February 2012 - 11:34 AM

She's hawt with a european accent too right? I hate you. :-D

#59 brewman

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 06:07 AM

She's hawt with a european accent too right? I hate you. :-D

LOL No European accent but yes to hawt.Dan

Edited by brewman, 03 February 2012 - 06:10 AM.


#60 positiveContact

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 06:21 AM

so are these kind of ferm chambers more efficient than a fridge with a temp controller? just curious...


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