It's pretty easy to figure out a removable, just do a mockup with cardboard. When the real thing is in the kettle just don't knock it around when the boil is done. Still haven't finished my grant......... I think the SS scrubbies may do the trick - at least here. I can live with a little system loss. Since about all I have are pellets now it just grates me to dump it.Nope, dont have one. But I also dont want one to be permanent either. So since I'm going to make some major changes in my brewery, might as well figure out a removable SS diverter plate too. For now I just whirlpool the pellets and pull off the side as shown above. I dont have any cold break issues since I inline chill. Im also thinking about getting that last clean Qt. out too. What Ive been doing is just to make sure no pellets get by when the trub cone fails towards the very end is to setup my grant/hopback after the Kettle. This has a FB in it and catches any remaining pellet trub before hitting the plate chiller. I like the plate chiller btw. Nice and compact. Works the same as my CFC, just smaller.
False Bottom
#21
Posted 07 July 2010 - 05:55 PM
#22
Posted 08 July 2010 - 07:04 AM
Curious as to how much hop material you have left in the kettle after chilling?I might be making a trip to Lowe's over lunch today...this is great work!My version-
#23
Posted 08 July 2010 - 09:56 AM
wonder if i could adapt that to my fermenterMy version-
#24
Posted 08 July 2010 - 03:04 PM
Look at what John Blichmann did in his pots...., might as well figure out a removable SS diverter plate too. ...
#25
Posted 12 July 2010 - 01:43 PM
#26
Posted 12 July 2010 - 01:50 PM
#27
Posted 12 July 2010 - 02:12 PM
How much trub/hot break material do you get flowing through your screen? Any? Clogging issues?I whirlpool and let it settle for ~ 15 minutes. Then I rack through a Bazooka screen along the side.I don't worry about cold break so much as hot break.
#28
Posted 12 July 2010 - 03:20 PM
I send the cold break material right into the fermenter.Every side-by-side comparison I've read about has proved that beer fermented on break is better than or indistinguishable from beer where the break was left in the boil kettle.I'm curious as to how you fellas are keeping that cold break material out of your fermenters?
#29
Posted 13 July 2010 - 05:59 AM
Whats the problem with cold break in the fermenter?I'm curious as to how you fellas are keeping that cold break material out of your fermenters?
#30
Posted 13 July 2010 - 08:15 AM
Maybe I'm confused here. Cold break material is the egg drop soup looking material in the kettle that forms after chilling? Everything I've read says that cold break material produces off flavors in the beer. Am I wrong? If I'm right, I want to minimize the amount of that crap that gets into my fermenter. Now, I'm going to start using a plate chiller here in the next week or so. If cold break material forms in the chill phase of the brewing process, that break material wouldn't form in the kettle. So if I can keep the left over hop material out of the kettle by using the methods described earlier in this thread, I would think I could minimize the amount of that cold break material that gets into the fermenter. Am I talking out of my arse or am I on the right track?Whats the problem with cold break in the fermenter?
#31
Posted 13 July 2010 - 08:36 AM
Your correct about what cold break can look like. But i seriously question that it can effect flavor. If it does its so indistinguishable not to even justify it as a concern. Others say cold break can also effect clarity of the final product? Really? There are so many other variables that can effect flavor compounds of beer that should be addressed. If anything, filtering cold break from the Kettle can be a more an issue, as you have noted. Others have a problem with break getting into the fermenter as far as clean yeast is concerned. It actually can give the yeasties some extra protein to help with healthy cells ive gathered from other reading. I think your on the right track to figure out how to leave hop trub behind. It can be difficult to find alternatives to do so. The bag works well, but id make darn sure you use the largest bag you can find so the hops can really swim in the boil to extract everything you can. Confining solves other problems and makes clean up easy, but can reduce the amount of oils that are released in the boil. Just something to think about. Please keep us informed with your plate chiller and your final product opinions of batches w/cold break.Maybe I'm confused here. Cold break material is the egg drop soup looking material in the kettle that forms after chilling? Everything I've read says that cold break material produces off flavors in the beer. Am I wrong? If I'm right, I want to minimize the amount of that crap that gets into my fermenter. Now, I'm going to start using a plate chiller here in the next week or so. If cold break material forms in the chill phase of the brewing process, that break material wouldn't form in the kettle. So if I can keep the left over hop material out of the kettle by using the methods described earlier in this thread, I would think I could minimize the amount of that cold break material that gets into the fermenter. Am I talking out of my arse or am I on the right track?
#32
Posted 13 July 2010 - 08:56 AM
#33
Posted 13 July 2010 - 11:15 AM
This is interesting too. How do you attach the scrubber to the dip tube? Stainless clamp?I have a copper dip tube that I put an all stainless choreboy scrubber on the end of.99 cents and it never clogs.
#34
Posted 13 July 2010 - 11:55 AM
Glad it works at your place. AG break, lots of hops and 12 gal batches clogged pretty fast when I tried it.I have a copper dip tube that I put an all stainless choreboy scrubber on the end of.99 cents and it never clogs.
#35
Posted 13 July 2010 - 06:53 PM
I wont tell you that it doesnt run slower on beers that have a ton of hops, but it has never stopped. I have the dip tube running across the keggle and stops near the top of the "dome" in the bottom of the keg. That way the trub isn't really a factor either. The amount of actual wort left behind (minus trub) is pretty minimal.Glad it works at your place. AG break, lots of hops and 12 gal batches clogged pretty fast when I tried it.
#36
Posted 13 July 2010 - 06:55 PM
The dip tube terminates near the wall and I just push it on the end of the tube and the wall holds it there. No connectors or clamps or anything.This is interesting too. How do you attach the scrubber to the dip tube? Stainless clamp?
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