Noob Conical Question(s)
#1
Posted 22 June 2010 - 06:20 PM
#2
Posted 22 June 2010 - 08:43 PM
I let it sit for a few hours, then dump the trub & pitch the yeast. You will be ok if there is some left in there. 65dF ambient is ok in the conical.Didn't find too much with the search feature. Trub seems to hit on Trub Lou a lot. 1.I've always been real picky about transferring crystal clear wort to the carboys. I will usually chill and let the wort rest for a couple hours at least and sometimes all night. Thats said, do any of you conical owners x-fer right away and actually dump the trub with the bottom valve? I seem to recall reading that some people will take a rubber hammer and tap the sides to get the trub down. Of course, lost wort is an issue also. Is it bad?2. It's doubtful I'm going to find the correct upright freezer before this weekend. I need to knock out a brew. The temp on the lower level of the house is 65. Think that's cool enough for an ale to not get too carried away? I have pulled it off with 10 gls split between a couple carboys but all in one vessel has me a tad worried.
#3
Posted 23 June 2010 - 06:20 PM
Clear wort being helpful for anything is an old wive's tale. Trub is good for the yeast, and doesn't affect the clarity of the finished beer (if it settles out in the BK, it will settle out in the primary).1.I've always been real picky about transferring crystal clear wort to the carboys.
#4
Posted 23 June 2010 - 06:52 PM
I know that it will settle, but regarding carboys if I plan on harvesting the yeast and reusing it I don't want all the trub in there. I pitch ample size starters, have yeast nutrients and no attenuation problems. Plus, I'm not into yeast washing either. :rolleyes:What I'm hoping for with the conical is that I can get most all the trub out before pitching. I seem to recall reading it's not as easy as claimed. Some people will take a rubber hammer & tap around the bottom to get it to fall properly.Clear wort being helpful for anything is an old wive's tale. Trub is good for the yeast, and doesn't affect the clarity of the finished beer (if it settles out in the BK, it will settle out in the primary).
#5
Posted 23 June 2010 - 07:54 PM
Why not?I know that it will settle, but regarding carboys if I plan on harvesting the yeast and reusing it I don't want all the trub in there.
#6
Posted 10 August 2010 - 03:30 PM
Edited by VolFan, 10 August 2010 - 03:32 PM.
#7
Posted 10 August 2010 - 03:48 PM
Limit your search to the Beer forum. Oughta take care of that problem.Didn't find too much with the search feature. Trub seems to hit on Trub Lou a lot.
#8
Posted 10 August 2010 - 04:03 PM
#9
Posted 10 August 2010 - 04:48 PM
You can't for the way they are designed. They stick "out", thus causing the problem. Each caster protrudes about 3" so in essence they add 6" overall to the footprint.No clue on a fridge/freezer. I use a cabinet with AC. I put my own casters on before they had those offset ones. It works but you need to be patient because that 14.5 is top heavy. Maybe you can re-orient them for a smaller footprint and less stability.
#10
Posted 10 August 2010 - 05:30 PM
1. You can dump a bunch of times, actually you should. You want to first bleed of the trub and yeast at the bottom before harvesting, the bottom fraction of the cone has a low viability. Then you harvest the crop which is a mixed from the middle layer and some younger yeast on top. After harvest you'll still be collecting stuff in the cone that should be dumped at certain points, but you never want to take that later yeast for repitching. 2. 65 is fine for most alesDidn't find too much with the search feature. Trub seems to hit on Trub Lou a lot. 1.I've always been real picky about transferring crystal clear wort to the carboys. I will usually chill and let the wort rest for a couple hours at least and sometimes all night. Thats said, do any of you conical owners x-fer right away and actually dump the trub with the bottom valve? I seem to recall reading that some people will take a rubber hammer and tap the sides to get the trub down. Of course, lost wort is an issue also. Is it bad?2. It's doubtful I'm going to find the correct upright freezer before this weekend. I need to knock out a brew. The temp on the lower level of the house is 65. Think that's cool enough for an ale to not get too carried away? I have pulled it off with 10 gls split between a couple carboys but all in one vessel has me a tad worried.
#11
Posted 10 August 2010 - 06:49 PM
Regarding #1.....Thanks for the response. #2....Im cool with proper ferm temps and such. I have already done a few ales in the den where the temp is ~65-67, but during heavy fermentation the beer crept up to 72.Right now I'm needing a freezer that will accommodate the conical with the casters. Probably should have just started another thread.1. You can dump a bunch of times, actually you should. You want to first bleed of the trub and yeast at the bottom before harvesting, the bottom fraction of the cone has a low viability. Then you harvest the crop which is a mixed from the middle layer and some younger yeast on top. After harvest you'll still be collecting stuff in the cone that should be dumped at certain points, but you never want to take that later yeast for repitching. 2. 65 is fine for most ales
#12
Posted 10 August 2010 - 06:55 PM
Since this option wasn't available when I bought the leg extenders I did a DIY. Wasn't that tough. Drilled some holes and used SS bolts and SS nylock nuts to go straight down. But as I said before, big stability problem, but not really if you go slow with it. Never tipped it or the Sanke fermenter that Swagman welded spears on for legs and has the basically the same footprint. I did this so I could roll the fermenters after filling. Have another DIY ramp that lets me roll them into the fermenting cabinet - would work the same going into a fridge or upright freezer. I have things set up so there is really no lifting except the MT. And if I have a huge grainbill I use my plastic scoop to empty the tun. Holds about 1.5# of dry grain. I have to do that with 10 gal batches and no help around.You can't for the way they are designed. They stick "out", thus causing the problem. Each caster protrudes about 3" so in essence they add 6" overall to the footprint.
#13
Posted 11 August 2010 - 11:32 AM
#14
Posted 11 August 2010 - 12:06 PM
#15
Posted 11 August 2010 - 12:27 PM
My 14.5 gallon blichmann conical fits perfectly in a single door pepsi cooler. Craigslist is your friend.I eventually want to get a conical fermentor. I figured when I did I would just build a big fermentor box that would be sectioned for storage, lagering and such.After seeing how big a 14-15 gallon conical is that was my only logical conclusion: If I was serious enough to get a conical, I was serious enough to make a fermentor/storage box.Cheers,Rich
#16
Posted 11 August 2010 - 02:07 PM
With the factory casters?I have looked for coke coolers and the cheapest I've ran across was about $800.My 14.5 gallon blichmann conical fits perfectly in a single door pepsi cooler. Craigslist is your friend.
#17
Posted 11 August 2010 - 02:41 PM
Why do you say that? It is pretty much universally recommended to keep hot break out of the fermenter. Here's an article on it from the Brewing Techniques magazine. https://www.brewingt....4/barchet.htmlCold break may not be so bad.Clear wort being helpful for anything is an old wive's tale. Trub is good for the yeast, and doesn't affect the clarity of the finished beer (if it settles out in the BK, it will settle out in the primary).
#18
Posted 11 August 2010 - 05:48 PM
Upright freezer???2. It's doubtful I'm going to find the correct upright freezer before this weekend. I need to knock out a brew. The temp on the lower level of the house is 65. Think that's cool enough for an ale to not get too carried away? I have pulled it off with 10 gls split between a couple carboys but all in one vessel has me a tad worried.
#19
Posted 11 August 2010 - 06:20 PM
Edited by VolFan, 11 August 2010 - 06:24 PM.
#20
Posted 12 August 2010 - 07:25 AM
Can you remove the casters? I have found soda coolers here for under $200. Just keep looking.With the factory casters?I have looked for coke coolers and the cheapest I've ran across was about $800.
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