harvesting yeast from the bottle
#21
Posted 16 May 2010 - 06:55 PM
#22
Posted 17 May 2010 - 04:28 AM
You make a trip to cooperstown from OR to pour beer? Dedication my friend! You've got it!Yeah, I've poured as a volunteer at the Ommegang Belgian Beer Fest for the past 3 years (for DFH one year!). At the first year we had the chance to participate in a beer dinner with Randy and all of us volunteers bombarded him with questions. He was pretty candid with his answers. He also indicated that they use many strains and only maintain two house strains. The Witte strain being the first and the Abbey/RareVos/3Phil strain. I also got the impression that the Hennepin was taken from one of the Moortgat Family's other breweries. That's all I've got for that topic however. And ditto to DJ's statement. There are plenty of reports of people making fantastic beer with Ommegang dregs. Go for it, no worries and be sure to report your findings.
#23
Posted 17 May 2010 - 07:23 AM
Hah! No, I've lived and worked in Upstate NY for most of my life. I only just recently moved to Oregon.You make a trip to cooperstown from OR to pour beer? Dedication my friend! You've got it!
#24
Posted 21 May 2010 - 03:29 AM
#25
Posted 21 May 2010 - 04:16 AM
#26
Posted 21 May 2010 - 04:27 AM
up to a week!! wow!From a bottle, I would think it would take at least 24 hours and could take up to a week. A lot of it depends on the health of the yeast in the bottle. The older the bottle, the less viable cells there are. On the positive side; it only takes 1 live cell to create a colony, so the odds are in your favor that it will work if you give it time.Yes: If you want to decant the wort, cool first to drop the yeast.
#27
Posted 21 May 2010 - 05:04 AM
#28
Posted 21 May 2010 - 11:56 AM
eh?So now I'm thinking - how do I know when the yeast has done all it's going to do? I can't readily take a gravity reading...
#29
Posted 21 May 2010 - 12:22 PM
I'd be less concerned with the attenuation of your starter wort (you're going to dump it anyways) and more so with the sediment of fresh yeast on the bottom of the bottle. Remember that yeast cells will reproduce before they ferment, so you don't have to treat a starter like you would a batch of beer and let it finish out. I never let my starters finish to the point of decanting as I'm always adding fresh wort to keep the reproduction process in high gear. Once you get a discernible layer, I'd say that you're ready to step it up to your typical starter flask/growler/vessel and treat it normally.So now I'm thinking - how do I know when the yeast has done all it's going to do? I can't readily take a gravity reading...
#30
Posted 21 May 2010 - 12:30 PM
well - there is break material from the boil there pretty much right off so it's a little tough to tell how much of the stuff at the bottom is yeast.I'd be less concerned with the attenuation of your starter wort (you're going to dump it anyways) and more so with the sediment of fresh yeast on the bottom of the bottle. Remember that yeast cells will reproduce before they ferment, so you don't have to treat a starter like you would a batch of beer and let it finish out. I never let my starters finish to the point of decanting as I'm always adding fresh wort to keep the reproduction process in high gear. Once you get a discernible layer, I'd say that you're ready to step it up to your typical starter flask/growler/vessel and treat it normally.
#31
Posted 21 May 2010 - 12:55 PM
#32
Posted 21 May 2010 - 01:53 PM
roger dodger - this is how everything goes the first time I try itIt's still less than 24 hours. Give it time. There is a lot less yeast in there than in any pack you buy. It should form Kraeusen on the top of the wort in the bottle. If you miss it, it should leave a ring around the bottle about a quarter of an inch above the liquid as evidence that it has worked. Swirling it occasionally will help keep the yeast in suspension and feeding on fresh wort. Relax.I harvested yeast from 3 bottles of Rogue the other week, I think it took a few days to get going. Never really had a lot of activity on the initial pitch, but it did leave evidence because of the ring around the bottle. Remember, you have underpitched big-time with 14 ozs of wort and a small amount of yeast. When I stepped mine up to a bigger starter, it had a really healthy ferment.
#33
Posted 22 May 2010 - 04:19 AM
day 2 - still no significant action that I can seeroger dodger - this is how everything goes the first time I try it
#34
Posted 22 May 2010 - 04:29 AM
okay - maybe there are some more bubbles (I wouldn't really call it foam b/c the bubbles aren't tightly packed enough for me to call it foam) on top now.day 2 - still no significant action that I can see
#35
Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:23 AM
#36
Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:38 AM
#37
Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:39 AM
standard starter strength is good? 100g of DME/L of H20? I made the starter in the bottle slightly weaker than that.I'd think you are ready for the stir plate. Just make sure your starter's OG isn't too high.
#38
Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:45 AM
I think standard strength would be fine but I typically low ball it until it builds up a bit.standard starter strength is good? 100g of DME/L of H20? I made the starter in the bottle slightly weaker than that.
#39
Posted 23 May 2010 - 08:56 AM
not a bad idea - I'll err on the side of weak when I make my somewhat rough measurements.I think standard strength would be fine but I typically low ball it until it builds up a bit.
#40
Posted 24 May 2010 - 05:00 AM
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