Air Tight Kegs?
#1
Posted 16 December 2009 - 07:34 PM
#2
Posted 16 December 2009 - 07:45 PM
#3
Posted 16 December 2009 - 07:46 PM
#4
Posted 16 December 2009 - 07:48 PM
#5
Posted 16 December 2009 - 08:11 PM
This. If you're leaking around the posts, replace the O-rings. As an aside, I've almost never had a leak around the posts. My problems are always getting the top to seal because the hole gets out of round.There isn't anywhere on a corny that using teflon tape would help you. The post threads are straight threads and not meant for sealing. Teflon tape is used on tapered threads (e.g. NPT) that are meant to act as a pressure seal. All the pressure seals in a corny are compressed rubber.
#6
Posted 16 December 2009 - 08:16 PM
+1. The lid is always the problem for me.This. If you're leaking around the posts, replace the O-rings. As an aside, I've almost never had a leak around the posts. My problems are always getting the top to seal because the hole gets out of round.
#7
Posted 16 December 2009 - 09:07 PM
#8
Posted 16 December 2009 - 10:10 PM
#9
Posted 17 December 2009 - 03:43 AM
yeup - only time I've had to fiddle with something was the lid and it just required reseating it and all was right in the world.+1. The lid is always the problem for me.
#10
Posted 17 December 2009 - 04:57 AM
#11
Posted 17 December 2009 - 06:49 AM
It is now. :devil:And a stout too, Dang that hurts.FWIW, I've done the same thing.... once!... And no, the bottom of my chest freezer is not painted black.
#12
Posted 17 December 2009 - 07:25 AM
#13
Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:00 AM
Correct. I have a couple of threads with iffy poppets that force me to connect a QD if I want to use those kegs.The gas line to QD connection IS an NPT fitting and could benefit from teflon tape.However, 2 lbs over five days may not be a leak. Was there any liquid in the keg that could have absorbed some of the CO2? Ultimately, you should be able to find any leak of consequence by spraying everything down with starsan or soap solution and looking for bubbles.Theoretically would a poppet only be a problem if the disconnects weren't on? Otherwise there depressed anyways. Also when I was pressure testing my keg I had a leak where the gas line screwed into the disconnect. I screwed in real tight but still had a tiny leak somewhere (lost 2 psi over about 5 days). Should I lube this too?
#14
Posted 17 December 2009 - 10:05 AM
Do you mean there is a leak between your gas line and the QD itself even if it is not connected? If so, I would just cut off the QD and reattach an inch or so back on the line. Are you using a barbed swivel nut on the gas line and using the threaded end style QD (sounds like you do), if so there should be a little plastic gasket/washer that fits between the QD thread post and the swivel nut. They cost like $.10 a piece if you do not have one. https://www.northern...lon-washer.html I have also done a couple times broken down a keg and forgot to put the dip tube back in when reassembling it. they dont work so well without it.I screwed in real tight but still had a tiny leak somewhere (lost 2 psi over about 5 days). Should I lube this too?
#15
Posted 17 December 2009 - 11:04 AM
I have a keg that just won't seal even after replacing the o-ring. I do see the hole is out of round (oval) and was going to take a hammer to it to see if I can get it to seal again. Any advice on fixing the bad keg? Right now I have 11 good kegs which I've yet to have all filled, but I hate to see one of them on the IR list.This. If you're leaking around the posts, replace the O-rings. As an aside, I've almost never had a leak around the posts. My problems are always getting the top to seal because the hole gets out of round.
#16
Posted 17 December 2009 - 12:30 PM
#17
Posted 17 December 2009 - 01:19 PM
I agree I was thinking of using it to secondary beers and then realized I never secondary! I thought the o-ring would wear out but a brand new one still leaked. I know the used kegs I have the oval is never perfectly shaped on any of them. I try to already keep the same lid with the keg to avoid mismatches. I just don't understand how the shape changed that it no longer holds pressure.I'll wait a bit longer here for words of wisdom before I take a hammer to it!Sounds like it is a good candidate for becoming a fermenter.
#18
Posted 17 December 2009 - 01:24 PM
#19
Posted 17 December 2009 - 01:44 PM
#20
Posted 17 December 2009 - 01:52 PM
I can try this and I know what you mean. This keg the legs make good contact and it takes a good effort to close it down. I do see a place where I can see more of the gasket so the hole and cover do not match up well there. Turning the cover 180 degrees is worse. That is why I think I need to re-shape the hole. Patrick, I can try this, but I'm usually against putting a gasket against another gasket.What I have heard helps for some is to give the bale a bit more tension. The legs of the bale should have some plastic tips. You can try to use the top from two soda bottles, and put the legs in them, and use that to give the lid more upward pressure, so the soda bottle tops are sandwiched between the legs and the top part of the keg. I hope that makes sense.
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