22 replies to this topic

[dondewey]

The barleywine I did last year got really good attenuation by doing most of the things in this thread, plus I waited about half-way through fermentation to add the last few pounds of sugar.

[3rd party JKor]

Here's a question: Does anyone see the need to filter air coming from on of those oxygen tanks you can get from a hardware store?

Nope.Pure oxygen is produced by cryogenic air separation in enormous chemical plants. First of all, they filter and clean the air coming into the process extremely well. Second, the cryogenic distillation process probably isn't very bacteria friendly. I'd be really surprised to find any organic matter in an oxygen tank.

[gnef]

I don't think 1.080 is too high a gravity to start worrying too much about attenuation. As long as you know how to handle yeast, and use the tips in this thread, you should have no problems getting the attenuation you want. In general though, if I have a much higher OG, and I want higher fermentability, I will mash around 148F for 90 min to a full two hours (I've even done an overnight mash). When I say much higher OG, I am talking around 1.120 or higher. This is also when yeast management and temperature become critically important, along with mash conversion, length of boil (have to be careful of caramelization). I also tend to do these bigger beers as a partigyle so I don't waste too many sugars or have to boil for too long.Also, if you have sugars you are adding like cane sugar, palm sugar, honey, etc. then add them either halfway through primary fermentation, or towards then end when it is just starting to slow down. This will help the yeast to maintain some sort of balance and be able to work harder before giving up. Gradually feeding the yeast is the way people are able to get into the 20+% range, along with other good yeast management.