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maximizing yeast attenuation


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#1 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 03:48 PM

Assume the wort and the type of yeast is constant here. What can I do to maximize attenuation? What is it that makes certain yeasts give up at a certain percent attenuation?

#2 3rd party JKor

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 03:54 PM

-Pitch the appropriate amount of healthy yeast-Oxygenate well-Keep your fermentation temp from fluctuating too much, especially on the cold side-Rouse the fermenter a few times throughout the ferment-Once your gravity is about 85-90% of the way to the FG, raise the ferment temp ~75°F (for an ale).

#3 cavman

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 04:06 PM

-Pitch the appropriate amount of healthy yeast-Oxygenate well-Keep your fermentation temp from fluctuating too much, especially on the cold side-Rouse the fermenter a few times throughout the ferment-Once your gravity is about 85-90% of the way to the FG, raise the ferment temp ~75°F (for an ale).

As well as using a good yeast nutrient, like servo. Also mash according to what you expect for final gravity.

#4 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 04:08 PM

As well as using a good yeast nutrient, like servo. Also mash according to what you expect for final gravity.

no breaking the assumptions ;)I've heard that boiled yeast makes a good nutrient. Has anyone tried this? Any idea how much to use? I was thinking maybe adding it in towards the end of the boil.

#5 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 04:10 PM

-Once your gravity is about 85-90% of the way to the FG, raise the ferment temp ~75°F (for an ale).

I pretty much do all of the stuff you listed (as best I can anyway) except this one. I'll have to give this a shot.

#6 cavman

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 04:13 PM

no breaking the assumptions ;)I've heard that boiled yeast makes a good nutrient. Has anyone tried this? Any idea how much to use? I was thinking maybe adding it in towards the end of the boil.

Part of servo is dead yeast cells, so yeast adding some old yeast to the end of the boil can help. I usually add my nutrients to the starter.

#7 3rd party JKor

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 04:50 PM

What problem are you having with attenuation? How far are you falling short of where you think you should be?

#8 tag

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 04:55 PM

Check your thermometer calibration. If it is reading low you will be mashing at a higher temp than you want.

#9 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 05:02 PM

What problem are you having with attenuation? How far are you falling short of where you think you should be?

I'm not really - I just am doing a brew coming up where I really want to make sure I get decent attenuation b/c of the high OG.

#10 consumptionjunction

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 05:03 PM

-Once your gravity is about 85-90% of the way to the FG, raise the ferment temp ~75°F (for an ale).

How should we go about doing this? I have a wine thief, but I don't like dipping it into my fermenter frequently, as it not only wastes beer but also increases the chances of infection. I usually wait till I'm certain the beer is finished fermenting before I take a SG measurement, and often miss this 85-90% mark.

#11 3rd party JKor

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Posted 18 October 2009 - 07:06 PM

How should we go about doing this? I have a wine thief, but I don't like dipping it into my fermenter frequently, as it not only wastes beer but also increases the chances of infection. I usually wait till I'm certain the beer is finished fermenting before I take a SG measurement, and often miss this 85-90% mark.

I like taking several measurements throughout the fermentation to see how things are going, so I generally have a good idea of how the fermentation is progressing. I have a conical, so it's a lot easier to take samples. I guess you'll just have to guess, if you don't want to take more readings.

#12 pete maz

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 09:43 AM

How should we go about doing this? I have a wine thief, but I don't like dipping it into my fermenter frequently, as it not only wastes beer but also increases the chances of infection. I usually wait till I'm certain the beer is finished fermenting before I take a SG measurement, and often miss this 85-90% mark.

I'm hesitant to take multiple readings too, because of infection chances. I usually just play it by ear and wait until the bubbling drops off. I'm doing a Belgian right now, and decided to add some heat when it got to about 1 bubble every 2-3 seconds.

#13 ChefLamont

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:17 PM

I'm not really - I just am doing a brew coming up where I really want to make sure I get decent attenuation b/c of the high OG.

If you are dealing with a high OG then don't underestimate good oxigenation. If you are using pure O2 or pump and filter, consider aerating a couple of times (every 12ish hours until fermentation begins.

#14 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 02:32 PM

If you are dealing with a high OG then don't underestimate good oxigenation. If you are using pure O2 or pump and filter, consider aerating a couple of times (every 12ish hours until fermentation begins.

yyyeeeaaaah - all I've got is my muscles and shaking abilities. I do pour the wort through a strainer bag so it gets some O2 that way. I then shake the bejesus out of it. I made a large starter for this batch (4+L) so hopefully that will do a lot for me. I also plan to mash around 150F. Should I give up and use S-04 or something?

#15 *_Guest_Matt C_*

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:59 PM

-Pitch the appropriate amount of healthy yeast-Oxygenate well-Keep your fermentation temp from fluctuating too much, especially on the cold side-Rouse the fermenter a few times throughout the ferment-Once your gravity is about 85-90% of the way to the FG, raise the ferment temp ~75°F (for an ale).

+100 excellent answer

#16 *_Guest_Matt C_*

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Posted 19 October 2009 - 04:02 PM

no breaking the assumptions :PI've heard that boiled yeast makes a good nutrient. Has anyone tried this? Any idea how much to use? I was thinking maybe adding it in towards the end of the boil.

you are talking about "yeast hulls". its a wine-making supplement. It apparently adds zinc to the wort with is a major player in stuck fermentations. You add it like 15 min from flame out.

#17 ChefLamont

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 03:35 AM

yyyeeeaaaah - all I've got is my muscles and shaking abilities. I do pour the wort through a strainer bag so it gets some O2 that way. I then shake the bejesus out of it. I made a large starter for this batch (4+L) so hopefully that will do a lot for me. I also plan to mash around 150F. Should I give up and use S-04 or something?

Well now we are getting more to recipe specifics. What are the rest of the details like style, intended OG and grain and % used.On the aeration: I would recommend saving up and getting some sort of forced aeration system. Pure O2 is one of the nicest and easiest but also costliest. (If you consider going the O2 route, lets talk about that. I have learned some things along the way that could save in the long run.) Pump and filter is less. The reason I say that is as soon as I went to O2, my final gravities immediately went down at least a couple of points on every beer I brewed. It showed me that I was not getting enough in there. I know you can get there with muscles and shaking and all, but you would have to be a tougher guy than a lot of us to really do it well.

#18 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 04:59 AM

Well now we are getting more to recipe specifics. What are the rest of the details like style, intended OG and grain and % used.On the aeration: I would recommend saving up and getting some sort of forced aeration system. Pure O2 is one of the nicest and easiest but also costliest. (If you consider going the O2 route, lets talk about that. I have learned some things along the way that could save in the long run.) Pump and filter is less. The reason I say that is as soon as I went to O2, my final gravities immediately went down at least a couple of points on every beer I brewed. It showed me that I was not getting enough in there. I know you can get there with muscles and shaking and all, but you would have to be a tougher guy than a lot of us to really do it well.

RecipeFeel free to open this thread up to the two aeration options or I can start a new one if you think that would be best...

#19 consumptionjunction

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:05 AM

Here's a question: Does anyone see the need to filter air coming from on of those oxygen tanks you can get from a hardware store?

#20 ThroatwobblerMangrove

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Posted 20 October 2009 - 05:11 AM

Here's a question: Does anyone see the need to filter air coming from on of those oxygen tanks you can get from a hardware store?

I decided to start a new thread on this topic - feel free to post in here as well but be aware that the other exists :P


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