First Barleywine Woes
#1
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:15 PM
#2
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:20 PM
#3
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:31 PM
#4
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:34 PM
Hopefully the pack of Notty will do something, but if nothing after a week a may have to convert a keg to a fermenter in order to rack to new yeast from starter.All I got is try warming it up to 68-70 for a week or so and see if it budges. From there, maybe make up a starter and pitch it while active. If you're going to repitch, I guess might as well rack it to a new container. If you get activity, you might be in for a few more weeks and that yeast is probably pretty beat up.
#5
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:35 PM
I did a fairly lackluster aeration job, just whipped up the kettle to a froth and poured into fermenter.did you oxygenate at all, or just rely on the olive oil?
#6
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:36 PM
#7
Posted 08 April 2009 - 06:38 PM
It wasn't an active starter, but I used 2 cups of S05 slurry from a recent cake.did you pitch the right amount of yeast?
#8
Posted 08 April 2009 - 07:46 PM
#9
Posted 08 April 2009 - 08:56 PM
#10
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:02 AM
#11
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:17 AM
I wouldn't even come close to thinking about either of those till you've had that carboy up to atleast 68 degrees for a while. A big beer like that isn't going to want to ferment nicely at cool temperatures using an ale yeast, they get tired out in the cold/alcoholic environment. You can only stack so many hurdles in front of yeast before they crap out. I got money that it'll ferment out just fine if you warm it up. If you're worried about the heat bill just put an adjustable temperature heating pad (for you back or whatever) under the carboy and wrap it in a blanket.Edit: Or if you're wanting to work with the space heater but the fermentor/heater into a closet of such so you're not having to heat a whole room. When I first started and had less equipment I'd use my hot water heater closet a lot in cold weather.At what point, if at all, would you say it's time for champagne yeast or beano?
#12
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:19 AM
*gives up man card*I may steal the heating pad from my fiancee's hairless chihuahua...I wouldn't even come close to thinking about either of those till you've had that carboy up to atleast 68 degrees for a while. A big beer like that isn't going to want to ferment nicely at cool temperatures using an ale yeast, they get tired out in the cold/alcoholic environment. You can only stack so many hurdles in front of yeast before they crap out. I got money that it'll ferment out just fine if you warm it up. If you're worried about the heat bill just put an adjustable temperature heating pad (for you back or whatever) under the carboy and wrap it in a blanket.
#13
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:21 AM
#14
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:23 AM
#15
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:34 AM
I have yet to fool with the funk, but I'll keep that suggestion in my pocket for down the road.One of the Brett strains - can't remember which - was found in casks used to age Old Ales I think. Maybe trying to take it down from 1.060 with Brett alone won't lead to a very true-to-style BW, but at some point you might consider Brett to help get it down to where you need it. As long as there's no oxygen you shouldn't get too much sour, just more barnyard/funk. Just a thought.
#16
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:42 AM
There is something wrong when the chihuahua has a heating blanket but the beer doesn't!!!I made an Old Ale wit the 05 yeast, but I racked it directly onto the entire yeast cake. Fermentation was fast and furious. Give the other recommendations a shot, but if need be try the champagne as a last resort and then when you go to bottling, add back in some lactose to bring back some body and sweetness that you are probably looking for.*gives up man card*I may steal the heating pad from my fiancee's hairless chihuahua...
#17
Posted 09 April 2009 - 08:52 AM
Oh there are different tricks up the sleeve like this we can bust out if this truly gets stuck but this is like the human hypothermia adage: "They're not dead till they are warm and dead." Warm it up first and foremost. If its still stuck we can get it rocking again. A 1.102 beer stuck at 1.060 isn't a big challenge.Now if anyone has an idea on the 1.210 beer that I got stuck at 1.060 when the WLP099 crapped out at 18% alcohol on me...One of the Brett strains - can't remember which - was found in casks used to age Old Ales I think. Maybe trying to take it down from 1.060 with Brett alone won't lead to a very true-to-style BW, but at some point you might consider Brett to help get it down to where you need it. As long as there's no oxygen you shouldn't get too much sour, just more barnyard/funk. Just a thought.
#18
Posted 09 April 2009 - 09:01 AM
hit it with a pack of lalvin 1118!Now if anyone has an idea on the 1.210 beer that I got stuck at 1.060 when the WLP099 crapped out at 18% alcohol on me...
#19
Posted 09 April 2009 - 09:20 AM
hit it with a pack of lalvin 1118!
Already at that point. The environmental conditions to try and kick off a yeast is not a good one...Lalvin EC-1118 (Prise de Mousse)This is the original, steady, low foamer, excellent for barrel fermentation or for working on heavy suspended pulps. It is one of the most popular wine yeasts in the world. It ferments well at low temperatures, flocculates well, and produces very compact lees. It is good for Champagne bases, secondary (bottle) fermentations, restarting stuck fermentations, and for late harvest grapes. It is also the yeast of choice for apple, crabapple, cranberry, hawthorn, and cherry wines. It has excellent organoleptic properties and should be in every vinter's refrigerator. Alcohol toxicity is 18% and it ferments relatively fast. It tolerates temperatures from 39-95° F. It is not, however, tolerant of concurrent malolactic fermentation.
#20
Posted 09 April 2009 - 01:52 PM
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