Next, I attached some endings onto the wires that will be attached to the capacitor. This isn’t absolutely necessary, but the ends are cheap and it is easier than soddering.
The wiring was a bit confusing at first, but thanks to another brewers wiring diagram (thanks Walt!), I was able to put it together. Here’s the chart:
Walt’s own malt mill project can be found at www.lamabrewery.comI chose not to hook up the forward/reverse switch, but there’s no reason you can’t add that via Walt’s chart. If you go a simple switch like me, you’ll have three wires from the power cord, and two wires from the extra piece you cut off (you can pitch the green wire you have cut).Starting with the power cord ends, the black wire goes on the top right post of the switch, the white and green wires will go to the white and green wires from the motor itself.The extra two wires you cut need to connect to the red and blue wires from the motor on one side and the capacitor on the other.
Below is a shot of the underneath of my table. You can see a little better how the wires connect and get a good shot of how the base of the table connects to the table-top.
Another shot from underneath shows how you actually attach the mill to the table. Earlier I mentioned that the hole in the table had to be a bit wider than the mill opening. The reasoning is so that you can get a socket up there to tighten the two bolts.
The last thing I added to my mill, and I suggest one of these even if you don’t motorize, is an extended hopper. I basically took a thin plywood and pieced one together with a nailgun. Final product shots:
Thanks to all the brewers out there that posted their experience with similar projects and to Walt for the wiring diagram.Jim Yeager
To start, you need to remove the wheel from the motor (if yours has one). To do this, remove the three screws holding the wheel on it, place them in the other holes and screw them in. This will push the wheel from the motor:
Next, you need a table or something to mount your motor and mill to. Many of the folks that have done this project use a basic 2x4 type table with plywood as the tabletop. Others have designed a table-top design that sits on buckets (one which usually catches the grain). Whatever works for you is fine. The key is that there is enough space on top for your motor and your mill, and there is enough room underneath to fit your grain bucket.The table I made was relatively simple, but still more than what is absolutely necessary. Before attaching anything, I measured out the a skirt to put around the outside so the table was more stable (you can put these between the legs if you want to).
After everything’s measured out, it’s time to start putting it together:
After I got the legs all attached, I added braces to the skirt and a small piece of wood to each side to attach the table-top:
After attaching the top, the table itself is complete:
At a minimum, you’ll want to cut an opening for the maltmill. I added a second opening to put in the switch. One thing to keep in mind when cutting the opening is, if you attach a box to the tabletop as I do (shown below), you will need to cut the opening longer by about an inch on each side than the mill’s opening. This is so you can attach/remove the mill (pictured near the end of the project).
