106 replies to this topic

[BlKtRe]

Nice! So is the inside of your panel all wired now?

 

Pretty much. I need to move the HLT wiring around on the PID to match yours. Right now its wired per a PJ diagram to be used without the hopeful capability of heating pre strike and the key. 

[zymot]

Yep that should work. Basically your breaker will be in the same place as that 7amp fuse in the diagram.

New to thread. What is the point of having a 7 amp fuse in series with 50 amp shunt?

[BlKtRe]

New to thread. What is the point of having a 7 amp fuse in series with 50 amp shunt?

 

I think the way Kal has it is to help protect the 120v stuff. I decided to follow Matt and a few others and go with internal DIN Breakers. 

Edited by BlKtRe, 06 July 2014 - 08:19 PM.

[zymot]

I think the way Kal has it is to help protect the 120v stuff. I decided to follow Matt and a few others and go with internal DIN Breakers.

Did you put a shunt in series with your breakers? The only function I can think of is if the shunt has a known and fixed resistance, you could put a meter across it and meter current and/or power.If it acts like a fuse, it will never blow with a 7 amp fuse or breaker to shut down the circuit first.

[matt6150]

New to thread. What is the point of having a 7 amp fuse in series with 50 amp shunt?

Like blktre said the 7amp fuse is what is feeding the 120v stuff. In that diagram if is just feeding off of that shunt. Not shown is the wiring coming off the shunt feeding the 240v stuff. In Kal's setup he is using the shunt for a amp meter and using fuses later down the line for the 240v elements. In mine and blktre's setup we are using breakers to protect everything and a current transformer for the amp meter, so no need for a shunt.

[BlKtRe]

The amp meters that need a shunt are also more expensive. Plus having to wire in line fuses for every element is a pain and takes up room in the enclosure.

[SchwanzBrewer]

Where might I find details and schematics for this kind of build?

[BlKtRe]

Kal at theelectricbrewery, ebrew, and PJ has lots of diagrams for various uses and techniques on the electric section at HBT.

[HVB]

Kal at theelectricbrewery, ebrew, and PJ has lots of diagrams for various uses and techniques on the electric section at HBT.

 

Or you can design your own

Edited by drez77, 07 July 2014 - 08:05 AM.

[SchwanzBrewer]

Or you can design your own

 

I could probably do it with a little studying and thought, but it would take forever and I might electrocute myself.

[HVB]

I could probably do it with a little studying and thought, but it would take forever and I might electrocute myself.

I was just having some fun!  I built and designed mine before they were so prevalent so I had no other choice.  I have some minor twitching for the test phases but a lot of it has gone away.

[BlKtRe]

Just about everyone uses Auber Instruments. All those places I mentioned will have a diagram and parts list for any imaginable setup you can think of. I used a combination of stuff from Matt, Kal, and PJ to get what I needed.

[codemonkey]

Very cool!

[BlKtRe]

Wow, these Auber Deluxe braided cables and probes are sweet. QD's on both ends make it even nicer. 

 

I've pretty much have the rest of my parts ordered. Still need to run the 60ft of #6 to power up. RIMS tube has been figured out per my other thread and I need to set up my 25g kettles with the elements. Other than that, Im not to far away. I had to take a break building this summer because of so many other warm weather projects. So Im now full bore on finishing this one up. 

 

Another day closer! 

[matt6150]

Good to hear!

[Clintama]

What type of control, if any, are you using to control your boil? Closed loop, on/off, open loop proportional, ???

 

I had been using a 1 degree proportional, closed loop control, but I've started turning off one of my 3000 watt heaters and just running it full bore when I get to temp. This seems to produce a more rolling boil where the closed loop control produced smaller bubbles. Sounds weird, but it really makes a difference.

[BlKtRe]

What type of control, if any, are you using to control your boil? Closed loop, on/off, open loop proportional, ???

 

I had been using a 1 degree proportional, closed loop control, but I've started turning off one of my 3000 watt heaters and just running it full bore when I get to temp. This seems to produce a more rolling boil where the closed loop control produced smaller bubbles. Sounds weird, but it really makes a difference.

 

Heck I dont know yet. The elements are switched with an on/off and also a with an alarm feature that can be turned on or off. I havent gotten to the point yet to do a test run with water and do any auto tuning of the PIDs yet. 

[Clintama]

Heck I dont know yet. The elements are switched with an on/off and also a with an alarm feature that can be turned on or off. I havent gotten to the point yet to do a test run with water and do any auto tuning of the PIDs yet. 

I would be interested in hearing what you find. Here's the other strange thing, When I'm running both elements, with a 1 degree, proportional band, the temperature actually goes to 214 or 215, but when I just turn on the one element, without any feedback, the temperature reads 211-212. Same probe, same position.  I can only guess that  the smaller bubbles are subjecting the probe to some steam. I also have to set the temperature to 214 or 215 to achieve a good boil with the feedback.

 

I've thought about maybe using one of the internal alarms, with the control set at say  220 and have the unit full on  until it reaches 210 and then have it kick out one of the elements. This would give me a quick temperature rise without the possibility of a boil over. I think. The hot break covering the surface may still cause an initial  boil over. 

[BlKtRe]

Interesting. What PIDs are you using and where are your probes located in each vessel? 

[Clintama]

Interesting. What PIDs are you using and where are your probes located in each vessel? 

I'm not right next to it, but it's one of the Chinese digital controls you get off of eBay and it drives 2 SSR's, one for each heater. I only use the Proportional part of the control.

 

I use an 8" long probe that hangs over the side of my converted sanke keg. The sensing tip is a good 12" or so above the heaters.