Adding H2O to the boil...
#1
Posted 17 August 2009 - 09:14 AM
#2
Posted 17 August 2009 - 09:28 AM
#3
Posted 17 August 2009 - 09:31 AM
This is what I do. I make up volume with additional weak wort.BrewBasserFirst of all, I think you're boiling too fast so I'd recommend cutting the flame back a bit to get the rate down to maybe 1.2 gal./hr. or less. High boiloff isn't a bad thing unless you don't have enough room in your kettle. Secondly, no there's nothing wrong with replacing that water. However, how about this for an option? Use more wort instead. When you sparge, use a half gallon to a gallon more sparge water. When you get enough for the kettle, start the boil but continue to sparge into a separate container. Then add that to the boil as soon as there's room. This would improve your efficiency a little.
#4
Posted 17 August 2009 - 09:56 AM
I see Basser agreed with this process... and I'll pitch in with the same response. I do this as well.First of all, I think you're boiling too fast so I'd recommend cutting the flame back a bit to get the rate down to maybe 1.2 gal./hr. or less. High boiloff isn't a bad thing unless you don't have enough room in your kettle. Secondly, no there's nothing wrong with replacing that water. However, how about this for an option? Use more wort instead. When you sparge, use a half gallon to a gallon more sparge water. When you get enough for the kettle, start the boil but continue to sparge into a separate container. Then add that to the boil as soon as there's room. This would improve your efficiency a little.
#5
Posted 17 August 2009 - 09:58 AM
#6
Posted 17 August 2009 - 10:03 AM
#7
Posted 17 August 2009 - 10:15 AM
I agree you shouldn't add it late in the boil. However I don't think there'd be much negative impact if you added it as soon as you made room in the kettle. If he's boiling off 1.5 gal./hr. he should have room for a half gallon after about 20 minutes.I'd tend to favor the water alone unless your efficiency is already running low. Wort added late in the boil doesn't get the benefit of a full boil to encourage break. Admittedly, any negative effect would be very minor, but if you've already met your efficiency goal without adding extra wort, why add additional complication.
#8
Posted 17 August 2009 - 10:55 AM
#9
Posted 17 August 2009 - 02:15 PM
#10
Posted 17 August 2009 - 02:16 PM
What, if any, kind of impact did it have on your gravity numbers?I have done the weak wort additions in the past, as well.
#11
Posted 17 August 2009 - 02:52 PM
It shouldn't have any impact on your gravity but it will increase your efficiency.What, if any, kind of impact did it have on your gravity numbers?
#12
Posted 17 August 2009 - 02:56 PM
bingo - do eeeetttIt shouldn't have any impact on your gravity but it will increase your efficiency.
#13
Posted 17 August 2009 - 04:34 PM
#14
Posted 17 August 2009 - 04:57 PM
+1....or does that make it +3 :blush:This weekend I'll be doing a 25 gal batch of JPA.Bad news: My BK only holds 13.5 gal after boil.Promash has a calculation section for this, and I brew a higher gravity wort.I boil 11.5 gal in the HLT. After the BK drains, I just connect the CFWC feed over to the BK and let it rip.No problems here.You will skate by, Trust me!+1 on adding more wort+1 on dialing back the boil
#15
Posted 17 August 2009 - 05:11 PM
That's very true if you fly sparge. If you batch sparge it's a non-issue.Shouldn't you check gravity of that weak wort before deciding whether to use it? My concern would be extracting tannins and/or husk flavors when you start getting really weak wort, say 1.006 or so.A local pro brewer is is quite anal about this when he is doing small pilot batches with the local homebrewers on his 1bbl pilot system. He sparges until he gets his target gravity, and never sparges below 1.006 runnings. Volume is what it is.
#16
Posted 17 August 2009 - 05:21 PM
correctamundoThat's very true if you fly sparge. If you batch sparge it's a non-issue.
#17
Posted 17 August 2009 - 05:35 PM
+1.+1 on adding more wort+1 on dialing back the boil
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