Barley Crusher
#1
Posted 03 August 2009 - 03:25 PM
#2
Posted 03 August 2009 - 03:33 PM
Trust me, the drill works just fine.So I was checking out the instructions that came with my Barley Crusher, and it says to not use a pulley with a motor on it. Anyone know what the big deal with that is? Could it be the sidewards tension from the belt on the pulley or something? It does say to use a drill, so I guess some kind of direct drive motor setup would work then??
#3
Posted 03 August 2009 - 04:49 PM
+1. I switched to the drill about two months ago. Great crush every time and done in about 5 minutes. Unless you like to tinker and build just go with a nice drill. Not sure about the pulley but I know its been discussed and advertised too I believe that you can direct drive the mill with a drill as well. Quick and easy. Have you brewed yet using your BarleyCrusher to crush the grains?Trust me, the drill works just fine.
#4
Posted 03 August 2009 - 04:53 PM
Not yet, she's still brand new. :angry:I might brew something next weekend when my dad comes out to visit. Maybe the weekend or Tues/Wed or something when I am off when he's here. Be kind of cool to do that with him being I only get to see him once every few years (I live in CA, he lives in MI).+1. I switched to the drill about two months ago. Great crush every time and done in about 5 minutes. Unless you like to tinker and build just go with a nice drill. Not sure about the pulley but I know its been discussed and advertised too I believe that you can direct drive the mill with a drill as well. Quick and easy. Have you brewed yet using your BarleyCrusher to crush the grains?
#5
Posted 03 August 2009 - 05:49 PM
#6
Posted 03 August 2009 - 06:10 PM
Edited by stangbat, 03 August 2009 - 06:10 PM.
#7
Posted 03 August 2009 - 06:18 PM
Without doubt, but would it really matter in a homebrew setting? I've seen a lot of setups with sheaves and belts. I went direct drive because it was easier, safer (didn't want to make a guard for the belt), smaller footprint and the beefy bodines were to be had then cheap......I can't imagine I have more than 15 - 20 hours on mine. And I brew a ......... well you knowYou and stellarbrew correctly guessed why they recommend not using a pulley. The rollers on the BC use bushings instead of ball bearings. The lateral load on the bushing will cause it to wear prematurely.
#8
Posted 03 August 2009 - 07:57 PM
Probably not in a homebrew setup, especially if you don't go crazy with the belt tension on the sheave. However as a business, BC wants as few maintenance issues and returns as possible. So they aren't going to condone it or approve it.Without doubt, but would it really matter in a homebrew setting? I've seen a lot of setups with sheaves and belts. I went direct drive because it was easier, safer (didn't want to make a guard for the belt), smaller footprint and the beefy bodines were to be had then cheap......I can't imagine I have more than 15 - 20 hours on mine. And I brew a ......... well you know
#9
Posted 03 August 2009 - 08:13 PM
Exactly, cant imagine that replacing a bronze bushing would really be that big of a deal though.OTOH, Are there any KC brewers that get together anymore?Probably not in a homebrew setup, especially if you don't go crazy with the belt tension on the sheave. However as a business, BC wants as few maintenance issues and returns as possible. So they aren't going to condone it or approve it.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users