1/2 bbl. dimensions?
#1
Posted 03 August 2009 - 07:56 AM
#2
Posted 03 August 2009 - 08:07 AM
Edited by JKoravos, 03 August 2009 - 08:08 AM.
#3
Posted 03 August 2009 - 08:07 AM
14 5/8" from the handles. Slightly larger inside the tank.Anyone know what the dimensions of a typical 15.5 gal. 1/2 bbl are? I'm really interested in the ID (that's inside diameter for the non-engineering type folks).
#4
Posted 04 August 2009 - 05:41 AM
#5
Posted 04 August 2009 - 06:44 AM
I didn't see that, thanks for the pointer though.I typed "keg dimensions" into google and the first hit was this-https://www.micromat...ble-aid-11.html
#6
Posted 04 August 2009 - 07:06 AM
I don't want to be a nay-sayer, but this sounds difficult to execute well without a ton of experience and very well stocked metal shop. Do you plan to do this yourself or hire it out?Wikipedia gives a diameter range of 16.1" to 17.15".I'm planning on building my new brew system based around Sankes, but for my boil kettle I want at least 20 gallons. I was thinking of buying a separate larger kettle, but then it dawned on me that I could weld two Sankes together to get the additional volume. I wanted to get the diameter to determine how much height would need to be added to get the volume up to 20g. Based on the range WP gives, adding a 6" ring to a cutoff Sanke will get me over 20g. I just need to make sure that the two kegs I use are the exact same diameter.
#7
Posted 04 August 2009 - 07:38 AM
I'm moderately skilled and highly determined.I don't want to be a nay-sayer, but this sounds difficult to execute well without a ton of experience and very well stocked metal shop. Do you plan to do this yourself or hire it out?
#8
Posted 04 August 2009 - 07:51 AM
#9
Posted 04 August 2009 - 08:22 AM
I haven't read anything about the geometry being poor for a kettle. Is the concern the ratio of diameter to height being low?In any case, I'm only extending the height of the vessel, not the the depth of the liquid. So, ultimately, it will perform the same at a typical keggle, except the extra height would aid with boilover prevention.At what point does kettle geometry come into play? It is my understanding that a normal 1/2 barrel is not good geometry for a kettle (but it obviously works). You are looking to double the height, without increasing the width of the vessel.
#10
Posted 04 August 2009 - 08:31 AM
#11
Posted 04 August 2009 - 08:42 AM
Is he going electric on this one??? IF he is, then I suppose he could put in two elements on separate switches. One on the bottom for when he does lower volume boils and another one about halfway up (to supplement) when he does large volume boils. If they are on separate switches, he'd only have to flip on the upper one "when needed". Sometimes I use my heat stick to help 10 gallon batches come to a boil.I'd think as you increase the height, your boil off rate will go down. I have nothing to back this up, just a hunch and some SWAGging going on.
#12
Posted 04 August 2009 - 08:58 AM
I'm not suggesting that he'll need more wattage. I have 4500 watts in a keg and it is more than enough for 10g. I was thinking that with more dead space above the boiling wort, you are going to get condensation on the sides that will roll back and contribute to less boil off. And you'll have less air movement and more humid air above the boiling wort than with shorter sides. I'd think this would also lessen the boil off. But like I said, I'm guessing, I don't have proof.Is he going electric on this one??? IF he is, then I suppose he could put in two elements on separate switches. One on the bottom for when he does lower volume boils and another one about halfway up (to supplement) when he does large volume boils. If they are on separate switches, he'd only have to flip on the upper one "when needed". Sometimes I use my heat stick to help 10 gallon batches come to a boil.
#13
Posted 04 August 2009 - 09:00 AM
I don't think adding 6" of height will make a noticeable difference in the boil rate. Maybe if I was adding a few feet.I'd think as you increase the height, your boil off rate will go down. I have nothing to back this up, just a hunch and some SWAGging going on.
#14
Posted 04 August 2009 - 09:06 AM
If you are going to the trouble, why only 6 inches?I don't think adding 6" of height will make a noticeable difference in the boil rate. Maybe if I was adding a few feet.
#15
Posted 04 August 2009 - 09:09 AM
#16
Posted 04 August 2009 - 09:26 AM
#17
Posted 04 August 2009 - 09:35 AM
I missed that, I was invisioning 2 sankey kegs stacked on top of each other.I don't think adding 6" of height will make a noticeable difference in the boil rate. Maybe if I was adding a few feet.
#18
Posted 04 August 2009 - 10:31 AM
Because it's a balance of adding volume and making the kettle too tall, and possibly difficult to deal with. I have a 15 gallon pot that I'm using to collect about 12.5 gallons preboil. It's doable but I get occasional boilovers, I think upping it to 20gal will help enough but not be too tall to deal with. Who knows, when I get the kegs and start building the system I may decide that 8" is better. We'll see.If you are going to the trouble, why only 6 inches?
#19
Posted 04 August 2009 - 07:43 PM
I'm not doubting your creativity or determination ... just cutting SS well and welding SS well takes some experience and skill. I'm watching your threads with interest, just want to be the reality check cause I personally hate frustration and seek to prevent it whenever possible.I'm moderately skilled and highly determined.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users