32 replies to this topic

[BlKtRe]

Looks great Beach. I would of gone that route if I didnt have all this other crap lying around I wasnt using. So I scabbed this together...

[beach]

I love that jumbo pump BlKtRe :frank:Beach

[BlKtRe]

I love that jumbo pump BlKtRe :frank:Beach

Me to!

[Genesee Ted]

That is some serious equipment

[beach]

Pushing beer out to cold crash,gel, and carb.Beach

[BlKtRe]

Works good doesn't it Beach!

[beach]

Yep, yepBeach

Edited by beach, 26 November 2012 - 06:19 AM.

[Mynameisluka]

as usual, you guys are awesome. thanks for all of the great ideas!! i've bought some stuff from swagman previously, and i know he does great work. hopefully i can talk him into making one of those tri clover caps...they look nice.beach - im sure there are umpteen million threads on building a heat stick...but, i really like your setup. can you share your plans? if it's already on here somewhere else, just let me know and i'll track it down.

[Mynameisluka]

beach - also...can you outline your corny disconnect setups like you show in posts 6 and 25? you have some good stuff there.

[beach]

OK Luka, I'll see what I can do on details, bear with me it's all from memory. I took the basic heat stick plans from here- https://www.cedarcre...m/heatstick.htm with a few tweaks: the chrome plated brass drain pipe has a 90* elbow on the bottom and I used a compression P-Trap on the top (I used to hang it in my Sanke BK) and no PVC cap. As you read his site he talks about encasing the connections of the heating element in JB Weld. I wasn't able to get things water tight with the JB Weld. My main issue was getting the connection from the brass drain pipe to the water heater element sealed. I tried a number of things (high temp silicone caulk, JB Weld) but nothing worked until I used silicone tape. Now the seal at that wet spot works great. Mine is powered with 12 ga cord into a 20 amp plug (so I don't space out and put it into a 15 amp circuit) The 20 amp outlet I have is hanging from my brew stand (out side duty electrical box with switch to keep it dry during spills) is GFI protected. Water heater element is 2000 watt.The gas side connector is something like this (left to right in post #6)Firestone Challenger gas-in cornie keg post, (manufacturer doesn't matter per-say, it's what I had around)this https://www.chicompa...roducts_id=1844 adapter to go from the bastard threads in the post to 1/4" MPT,1/4" FPT to 1/2" compression adapterShort piece of 1/2" stainless tubing1/2" compression nut to go into one side of a compression union attached to the 1/2" blow-off tube on the brewers hardware sanke fermenter kit.The dry traps I use are 1/2" OD so by adding a compression nut and a couple of o-rings it fits into the compression union. Compression fittings are kept tight with double o-rings so they can be disassembled for cleaning/repair (no compression ferules)The liquid out side is;3/8" compression to 1/4" FPT1/4" MPT to 1/4" Male flare fittingFrom there it's a 1/4" female flare fitting on bev tubing to get me to the next tank.I hope this makes sense. Any questions?Beach

Edited by beach, 27 November 2012 - 07:15 AM.

[Mynameisluka]

beach, thanks for the info, very much appreciated!!! sorry i haven't been around much to thank you until now, it's been busy lately.

[Mynameisluka]

blktre...that setup that swag built for you...one of the posts is gas in, the elbow is liquid out, what's the third outlet for?

[BlKtRe]

blktre...that setup that swag built for you...one of the posts is gas in, the elbow is liquid out, what's the third outlet for?

3/8 thermowell.