14 replies to this topic

[Hooperjetcar]

So just finished and tested 4500w hlt. I didn't bring a thermometer out with me, but it had 6 gallons of tap water hot to the touch in less than 5 minutes. Only down side is I was trying to use existing equipment, and old boil kettle was too narrow to fit element along bottom, so it runs vertically, so I've got to heat 6 gallons at a time. Should save a bunch of propane getting mash and sparge water up to temp. Boil will still be propane fired though, as I did not invest in any control mechanisms. It's on till temp is hit, then turn it off.

[3rd party JKor]

I can't wait to go electric. My system now is just a PITA to control and use.

[strangebrewer]

Pics required! I'd like to see how you set it up as I'm planning to do the same thing with my 7 gallon HLT.

[DubbelEntendre]

I can't wait to go electric. My system now is just a PITA to control and use.

This!

Pics required! I'd like to see how you set it up as I'm planning to do the same thing with my 7 gallon HLT.

And This!

[HVB]

I love brewing with electric. For me it is the only way ..

[Hooperjetcar]

Here are a few pics. A word of caution however. Electricity and water do not mix. This is a dangerous thing to mess with and you can kill yourself. Beer is not worth dying for.

[3rd party JKor]

It's a little hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like the top of the element is pretty close to the surface of the liquid. If so, you are going to have to be extremely careful with that set up. Bad things will happen if the water gets down past the top of the element while on.

[strangebrewer]

Water, electricity, and bare feet.... now I'm worried :1zhelp:120 or 240 for power in?

[Hooperjetcar]

Yeah, for the pic it was unplugged, as I had already tested and drained before the request for pics. It's 220 in. The previous home owner was a welder, and had a 220 outlet on a separate breaker box wired into the garage. I just had to swap the breaker for a gfci. I've got about 2 inches of water over the tip of the element, so yeah I do have to be careful about the hlt being full before turning it on. I have a note over the plug that says "Is it Full?" My plan is Fill HLT, Plug system in, flip switch on. Then switch off, unplug, refill for sparge, turn on etc.

[3rd party JKor]

I'd put a float switch on it to kill power if the level gets too low.

[strangebrewer]

I installed a 220 circuit for my welder as well so I've got all of that in place. I agree the large element is a bit of a drag but nicely done. Sweet and simple!

[dondewey]

I'm using one of the big blue cube coolers for my HLT. With a 3500W element it only runs at like 1% to maintain 170F. 12 batches so far and no problems at all. Something about the geometry of the cooler must be magic, as I get no measureable differences in temp throughout the water with no stirring.

[DubbelEntendre]

I'd put a float switch on it to kill power if the level gets too low.

This.

[DubbelEntendre]

It looks sweet. What are you using as a seal for where the element comes through the kettle wall?

[Hooperjetcar]

There is a high temp o ring under the brass nut, then the washer that came with the element outside, between the box and the pot, then the inside of the box is coated with JB Weld.Edit: I let it sit full for 24 hours before I added the JB weld, and there were no leaks, so not sure why I added it, other than I had planned to.

Edited by Hooperjetcar, 11 July 2009 - 02:09 PM.