38 replies to this topic

[MyaCullen]

That's true... you could drill out a larger hole and then add the threaded insert. Those inserts are available just about any hardware store and I can get the measurements for you if you need them. The only problem is that they require quite a large hole and I ended up splitting a number of handles I worked hard to cut and sand. So I went the "threaded rod and ferrule" route which is much easier. You think it's tough drilling a hole so that a piece of threaded rod is straight? Try drilling a hole so that one of these inserts is straight. UGH!

I can't find those ferrules you posted either, someone has to import or make the damned things, but dang they are keeping quiet

[Big Nake]

I can't find those ferrules you posted either, someone has to import or make the damned things, but dang they are keeping quiet

Did you look at the KegWorks link I posted? $3.50 and in stock.

[MyaCullen]

Did you look at the KegWorks link I posted? $3.50 and in stock.

I meant an industrial supplier, sorry

[johnpreuss]

That's true... you could drill out a larger hole and then add the threaded insert. Those inserts are available just about any hardware store and I can get the measurements for you if you need them. The only problem is that they require quite a large hole and I ended up splitting a number of handles I worked hard to cut and sand. So I went the "threaded rod and ferrule" route which is much easier. You think it's tough drilling a hole so that a piece of threaded rod is straight? Try drilling a hole so that one of these inserts is straight. UGH!

What if you drilled the hole first then cut the handle? Just a thought.

Edited by johnpreuss, 28 July 2012 - 08:54 PM.

[Big Nake]

What if you drilled the hole first then cut the handle? Just a thought.

One way or the other the hole needs to be drilled and centered properly. The issue with the splitting is more with the thickness of the wood I'm using than the width of my cut. My point was that the threaded inserts are very large and the thread is very coarse. It bites into the wood and getting it straight is tricky. The best approach would probably be to use a thicker piece of wood.

[MyaCullen]

One way or the other the hole needs to be drilled and centered properly. The issue with the splitting is more with the thickness of the wood I'm using than the width of my cut. My point was that the threaded inserts are very large and the thread is very coarse. It bites into the wood and getting it straight is tricky. The best approach would probably be to use a thicker piece of wood.

drill oversized hole, use epoxy to set the insert?

[Big Nake]

drill oversized hole, use epoxy to set the insert?

Definitely possible. I can't remember the size of the drill bit I used but I'm almost positive it was the largest one I had. Those threaded inserts usually have a notch in them so you can use a flat screwdriver to crank it into place... but again, you would need to good-sized screwdriver to span that gap. When I use those inserts, I think I take that largest bit and drill it out so that the hole is a little larger (as you suggest) and then see if I can get the insert into place. If the hole is just a little too large to keep the insert snugly in place... yep, some sort of good glue. But you still have to get it straight. I have a few that lean just a little bit... which, of course peeves me to no end. I have another 8' long piece of ¾" x 3½ oak and I'm due to make a few others for some upcoming beers. I'll probably go the threaded-rod and ferrule route on those.

Edited by KenLenard, 29 July 2012 - 08:53 AM.

[MyaCullen]

Definitely possible. I can't remember the size of the drill bit I used but I'm almost positive it was the largest one I had. Those threaded inserts usually have a notch in them so you can use a flat screwdriver to crank it into place... but again, you would need to good-sized screwdriver to span that gap. When I use those inserts, I think I take that largest bit and drill it out so that the hole is a little larger (as you suggest) and then see if I can get the insert into place. If the hole is just a little too large to keep the insert snugly in place... yep, some sort of good glue. But you still have to get it straight. I have a few that lean just a little bit... which, of course peeves me to no end.

somehow that doesn't surprise me

[Big Nake]

somehow that doesn't surprise me

Come on now. You can't have a left-leaning or right-leaning tap handle! Someone in the PH might take it politically!

[Stout_fan]

To set the threaded inserts, I use a drill press with forstner bit.Then I have a fixture I made that centers the tap handle and I use the T inserter in a bushing attached to the fixture to make sure all is in line.All told, it is a MAJOR PITA !!!!

[Big Nake]

To set the threaded inserts, I use a drill press with forstner bit.Then I have a fixture I made that centers the tap handle and I use the T inserter in a bushing attached to the fixture to make sure all is in line.All told, it is a MAJOR PITA !!!!

I'll bet... and you have much, MUCH better equipment than I do!

[Stout_fan]

I'll bet... and you have much, MUCH better equipment than I do!

Ken, not sure about that, but all my tap handles do lean to the right.

Edited by Stout_fan, 30 July 2012 - 03:02 PM.

[Big Nake]

Ken, not sure about that, but all my tap handles do lean to the right.

HEY NOW!

[klickcue]

Ken,What I would do is build a jig to help center your drilled hole in the handle.As an example, assume that the handle is 3/4" x 3/4" at the base. Build a box that surrounds the base of the handle and attach a thick piece on top of the 4 sided base. Take care to drill a centered hole in the top that is square to top in three directions. The thick drilled top will be your hand drill guide for all of your nice up coming handles. Nice work and Logos, by the way!To get a little more pointed and a little off topic the following lengths of my two piece cues range from 58" to 60". The same principal applies to you handles, straight and true. Spend the time and make a jig.Fancy Tap Handles:httpss://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-0QOY4mBdkNw/UBcuOuaKS2I/AAAAAAAAAuk/77kBwysmX2Q/s640/angled_doug_cue.jpghttpss://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-sb8xAywbk5Q/UBcuYWExNKI/AAAAAAAAAuo/N4vqnkZB11o/s640/angled_brandon.jpghttpss://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Oe-Ccui2WRo/UBcuiYaC-fI/AAAAAAAAAus/Bk6f2GhaBFo/s640/angled_king.jpghttpss://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rFigw5lvltU/UBcus07QuDI/AAAAAAAAAu4/smWkgSEexsc/s640/angled_snakewood.jpg

[gnef]

Nice cues! Makes me want to start playing again...

[Big Nake]

More...

[Big Nake]

I'm updating this thread because I made a few other handles over the weekend and I have concluded that simple is better.





These are just made from some poplar that is 2.5 x .75 (by about 6') where I just cut a length of it, sanded it down to make it look finished, inserted the threaded rod for the ferrule, primed and painted. The shape of it makes it easy to design a rectangular label which is easy to cut straight. Use some 3M Super-77 adhesive and when it's dry, hit it with a clear top coat. I came to the conclusion that anything I did that was more complex ended up coming out looking crappy. I'm just not good enough with the saw to be able to produce complicated tap handles. Here are some others that have a different shape and they're easy enough to do but cutting out the label in a perfect circle is not nearly as easy as a square or rectangle. The Dunkel one has a trim piece on it that I got from a local hardware place and then I just fastened it to a smaller piece of wood to complete it. I have another one like it that I made and primed over the weekend.



I made some pretty poor-looking handles in the past and I'm in the process of getting rid of any that look bad and making simpler designs to replace them. The newer ones look better and are built better.

[HVB]

They look nice Ken.  I am all about simple, mine are just file handles.

 

[Big Nake]

Perfect, Drez. File handles + chalk board = win.