25 replies to this topic

[SchwanzBrewer]

httpss://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-5IBki14WHrE/T4C-XLlWx2I/AAAAAAAAAYo/3QaIpgdegHg/w500-h375-k/2012-04-07%2B18.21.08.jpgThis is the AC unit on top of the trailer. We got it installed today. I'll upload a couple other pictures later. My fat ass was up on top of that thing cleaning the hole in the roof. We still have to build a false wall, insulate the whole thing, and seal it up good, run the shanks and taps to the outside.Question: This is a 13,500 BTU AC. We need to bypass the thermostat and put in a temperature controller to get down to serving temps. Blktre said to use a Love temp controller on my fermentation chamber. I was wondering if I should use the same thing on this? I never really figured out which one was the right one for the ferm chamber. He said to use the TS, but there are many models. Also, how do I combat freezing up?We have some other stuff to do, but we need to order or go get a controller in the next couple days so we can have it ready to test fire by next weekend (the event we are gonna use it for is on the 20th). That gives us a few days to play around with it and make sure it works.Beer Forum Brain Trust GO!!!Cheers,Rich

[SchwanzBrewer]

httpss://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m2sz74GSchQ/T4DyUE_LwQI/AAAAAAAAAYw/GMgQFDGaYI0/w500-h375-k/2012-04-07%2B18.20.36.jpg

[gnef]

First thing is the voltage. Does that AC unit run off of standard 110?How clean is your electricity? I don't know how sensitive the love controllers are to variations in the voltage.How many amps does the AC unit pull (starting as well as continuous)? If it is more than 15ish (rated for 16), you may need an SSR.For preventing freeze-ups, lower the temperature slowly, and use fans on the inner coils to prevent moisture from building up on them. Run the fans constantly, even when the unit is off.Is the temp controller on the unit itself digital or analog? I only have experience using an analog AC unit, and it was very simple to bypass. I have read that if it is digital, it requires more work.That's all I can think of for now. If I come up with anything else, I'll post again later.

[SchwanzBrewer]

httpss://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j8bMk0QFC00/T4D6G_OHnuI/AAAAAAAAAY4/HiqZ8_7hBWs/w489-h368-k/2012-04-07%2B18.20.21.jpg

[SchwanzBrewer]

This is designed to run off of a generator. There will be 2 lines of 220V @ 30A, split each to two breakers so there will be 110V @ 15A available for the unit (I think). I will have to get details from the manual for what the requirements are, but I know for sure that it runs on 110V. I think also you will be able to run a 110V extension chord out to it to run the AC if needed.I read a bunch of walk in cooler threads and I think I can figure out what to do. I know its an analog control, I don't know if the fans can be run independently (probably). Worst comes to worst we will install fans on it.Cheers,Rich

[gnef]

The AC unit may be ok, but my concern is for the controller and whether or not it is sensitive to a non-sine wave voltage that it would most likely get from the generator (at least as much as I can recall about generators. If they can produce a pure true sine wave under full load, then I tend to think the controller should have no problem). If you get an extension cord for the AC, make sure you get a thick gauge to handle the current.I just attached computer fans to the front of my AC that run all the time. With how yours is set up, I'm not sure how easy that will be for you though.If the start up load is close to the limit for the controller, it may be a good idea to go with an SSR just to make sure you don't burn out the controller. I'm not sure of the tolerances of the controller, but I always like to play it safe when the load is close to the limit.I would also recommend getting the stainless probes over the PVC jacketed ones for your use. This is what I chose to go with for the walk-in and I am happy I did - I submerge them in cold pack gel, and have no worries of leaving them there for years.What type of insulation, and how much insulation do you plan on using?This looks like it is shaping up well, I hope things go smoothly for you!

[SchwanzBrewer]

4 inches of insulation - 2 inch thick ea panels. R should be around 15 or so. I'll get the numbers for the AC today.

[SchwanzBrewer]

https://www.rvcomfor..._data_sheet.pdfThat link is for the AC unit. Looks like a 16A controller is needed, min.

[SchwanzBrewer]

gnef, anything else I should know about an SSR?

[gnef]

I actually haven't used any ssr devices myself- I typically have a load within the controllers abilities easily. There are many on here that have electrical brew rigs and have much more experience than I do Here is what little I know, or at least think I know. I hope if I am wrong, someone will correct me.You can get ssr devices from a number of places, Ebay may be a good start for affordable ones.You need to look at trigger voltage, output voltage, and output wattage/current. To keep things simpler, I would stick with all 110v, and get an ssr with around a 20a output so that you are only loading it 80%. You will need some basic electrical wiring skills, but it is fairly simple.

Edited by gnef, 09 April 2012 - 07:23 AM.

[Genesee Ted]

Rich, why does it have to be so big? How many kegs are going in there? I must have missed a thread somewhere

[SchwanzBrewer]

Rich, why does it have to be so big? How many kegs are going in there? I must have missed a thread somewhere

Gonna be able to bring the whole room to 40 or maybe freezing. The FFIL is going to turn the trailer into a food/catering trailer. We will have 12 kegs inside for the event next friday. I did some catching up and it looks like for the event we will have to just use the 110 @ 20A to run the AC (16A needed). So like gnef said I should be looking for a 20 amp controller.I just need to wire it in so that the fan runs constantly and program it to have a longer running cycle so it's gentler on the compressor.

[SchwanzBrewer]

Holy shit. I just spent all weekend building this trailer. Three guys, three brains, three ideas. Someone shoot me in the head. I didn't get any pictures, but we have a false wall started in the iddle of the trailer, the AC installed and running, the below deck insulated, the inside floor insulated, the front and false wall insulated. This has been one hell of a project. I'm gonna work on it more tomorrow night. We have to get this thing done by Friday so we can use it Friday night. I still have 40 gallons of beer to keg too.Cheers,Rich

[ChefLamont]

I have used SSRs with my controllers. It is not that hard. I happened to get ones with DC triggers, but that was solved buy a wall wart put in a circuit with the controller and the SSR. Gnef makes a good point though, if you can get ones with AC triggers, that would probably be somewhat simpler. You can get some pretty beefy SSRs that are way more than adequate on ebay for a reasonable price.

[SchwanzBrewer]

OK crunch time. I have the TS-13010 for the AC and ts time to wire it in. We removed the wires from the thermostat and now need to put them into the controller. If you have done this before please help explain what to do! I need you beer forum, you are my only hope!

[Genesee Ted]

OK crunch time. I have the TS-13010 for the AC and ts time to wire it in. We removed the wires from the thermostat and now need to put them into the controller. comptroller. If you have done this before please help explain what to do! I need you beer forum, you are my only hope!

FTFYSorry, that's all I got

[SchwanzBrewer]

https://www.coleparm...fs/93520-00.pdfThat is the manual. We want the 16A. There were 3 (4) wires coming off of the thermostat. One set was doubled together so it was really one wire (?). Obviously the probe goes into 1 & 2. I got that much. Not sure where to put the other wires to get it right. There was a white (that was the one that was doubled - had two clips on the thermostat and a double clip coming from the wire), a blue and a yellow. We connected the wires to an extension cable and will mount the controller into the warm side so we can adjust things without opening the door.Here's the diagram for the AC. https://www.rvcomfor...ts/1976d136.pdfAny help would be appreciated.

[Buzz Buzzard]

Why not leave the original thermo hooked up but in the warm side. So it will always believe it needs to be on.Then just power your ac from the relay?That is what I did on my ferm chamber worked fine.

[SchwanzBrewer]

I've been told that I need the controller to help with the cycle time on the compressor to help it not cycle as fast. I have the controller and it has a nice temp sensor and probe so I might as well use it.Cheers,Rich

[Buzz Buzzard]

i am probably mis understanding what you have. what i did was move the ac internal probe to a warm air location. then use my controller to feed it power on demand. the controller determines cycle times thee ac is always in compressor on mode