does anyone make a screen that stays near the side of the kettle? it seems like this would be beneficial b/c then you could get some of the break and hop material into a cone in the middle of the kettle and avoid having to filter a lot of it.Bazooka screens are very sturdy. You will have to force a lot of pounds of pressure on it to damage it.

Brewery Equipment Upgrade
#21
Posted 20 December 2011 - 06:30 AM
#22
Posted 20 December 2011 - 11:46 AM
Buy the bazooka screen, cut it in half and crimp the end down. Your pickup tube can employ the use of two 90 degree elbows to get the screen over to the side. The bazooka isn't attached to the pickup tube in the picture below (not sure why I had it off when I took the picture), but you get the idea.does anyone make a screen that stays near the side of the kettle? it seems like this would be beneficial b/c then you could get some of the break and hop material into a cone in the middle of the kettle and avoid having to filter a lot of it.

#23
Posted 20 December 2011 - 11:52 AM
#24
Posted 20 December 2011 - 12:29 PM
Let's put it this way... the bazooka screen is about $17. The copper fittings, when you see the pic, probably are less than $4 altogether. It's a quick, easy DIY project if you have even crappy skills welding copper fittings together.I'll have to check the pic when I get home. it's blocked here.
#25
Posted 20 December 2011 - 12:35 PM
are you sweating them together? I'm pretty awful that that :PI've always wondered if boiling the flux was an issue...eta: other things that need to happen would be drilling a hold in my kettle and getting a weldless fitting.Let's put it this way... the bazooka screen is about $17. The copper fittings, when you see the pic, probably are less than $4 altogether. It's a quick, easy DIY project if you have even crappy skills welding copper fittings together.
Edited by StudsTerkel, 20 December 2011 - 12:36 PM.
#26
Posted 20 December 2011 - 01:13 PM
#27
Posted 20 December 2011 - 01:25 PM
i just need the hole in the side. don't people use a drill for that?A case of homebrew to a welder took care of getting the top off the keggle and getting a hole in the keg for the weldless.
#28
Posted 20 December 2011 - 01:35 PM
#29
Posted 20 December 2011 - 01:59 PM
maybe I should just buy a new kettleI had an un-cut keg. He was able to do both. Others could probably pipe in, but you would need a step bit. The cost of a step bit could easily exceed your cost in making a case (half a batch) of beer.

#30
Posted 20 December 2011 - 03:14 PM


#31
Posted 20 December 2011 - 06:11 PM
I have a step bit you can borrow if you are heading my way anytime.maybe I should just buy a new kettle
#32
Posted 21 December 2011 - 04:06 AM
is this what you used it for? if yes, how did you clean up the edges of the hole?I have a step bit you can borrow if you are heading my way anytime.
#33
Posted 21 December 2011 - 12:42 PM
Yeah i have done a few pots with them, all my cuts have been clean and didn't need cleaning up.is this what you used it for? if yes, how did you clean up the edges of the hole?
#34
Posted 21 December 2011 - 05:25 PM
well that's just plain tempting right there - I guess I should look into some drain options...Yeah i have done a few pots with them, all my cuts have been clean and didn't need cleaning up.
#35
Posted 24 December 2011 - 07:39 PM
#36
Posted 25 December 2011 - 04:24 AM
tre - can you use the 2nd config for whole cone hops? i very rarely use them (just the ones I grow pretty much). what is your standard operating procedure to get the break material away from the pickup?FB in my 25g Kettle. I can use all pellets as long as I use a single whole cone charge without clogging issues whatsoever.
Here is my dip tube for using pellets in same 25g Kettle. I switch out the FB and dip tube with the union. I whirlpool and inline chill through a plate with this setup and have never, ever had any clogging issues. I use not other means of filter.
#37
Posted 25 December 2011 - 08:40 AM
Edited by BlKtRe, 25 December 2011 - 08:41 AM.
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